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-   -   Tips on valve guide removal (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/294900-tips-valve-guide-removal.html)

shbop 08-18-2007 03:51 PM

Glad you found it. I went back to try and get a link for you, and couldn't find it. Finally did, but I was starting to think I was hallucinating.

tony77targa 08-22-2007 02:29 AM

Called Baum tools to oreder the step drill today and they dont carry it anymore ... anyone else find a supplier ?? Mcmaster car has them but not in the exact size that John mentions...

cgarr 08-22-2007 10:13 AM

I chucked a bit up in my valve grinder and made one, you might do it on a bench grinder too..

shbop 08-29-2007 06:26 AM

Thought I'd revive this thread. Baum tools no longer sells these tools. It seems the only way to get a driver for valve guides is to make one, or buy the Neway kit. Anyone have another source for these? I bought the replacement guide-driver from Snap-On, ph 86, and had to machine it down, in order to work. Obviously not the right tool, but all he said he could get. I'm also looking for the Klien guide reamers. Anyone? Thanks in advance!

bpu699 08-13-2017 03:35 PM

Just found this thread searching valve guide info...

Really interesting...

Do a lot of folks remove and replace their own guides?

If one did this, would the valve seal in the original seat?

Amazing what folks have done on their own!

Trackrash 08-13-2017 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bpu699 (Post 9698830)
Just found this thread searching valve guide info...

Really interesting...

Do a lot of folks remove and replace their own guides?

If one did this, would the valve seal in the original seat?

Amazing what folks have done on their own!

I just finished doing my own heads. I have done this several times over the years. It helps that I have had friends with the equipment and experience to guide me.

You will almost never have a new guide that will not have to be reamed to properly fit the valve stems. This requires a special reamer. The fact that the old guide and valve were worn in together will require the seat to be re-cut to match the new guide.

There is almost no point in not restoring your valve seats if you have gone this far.

You should not consider doing this yourself, unless you have done it before and have the proper tools.

BTW, I find it amazing that the OP was successful with his method.

Mark Henry 08-14-2017 04:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgarr (Post 3440100)
I chucked a bit up in my valve grinder and made one, you might do it on a bench grinder too..

^^^ Agree.

I don't just buy tools, I make every tool that I realistically can.
Saves a boat load of cash, I can make tools that are not available and I understand the job that much better.
My shop made tool list on VW and Porsche is quite extensive.

bpu699 08-14-2017 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark Henry (Post 9699174)
^^^ Agree.

I don't just buy tools, I make every tool that I realistically can.
Saves a boat load of cash, I can make tools that are not available and I understand the job that much better.
My shop made tool list on VW and Porsche is quite extensive.

I may need to make a new thread :).

I made my own CAM removal tool, somewhat similar to a commercial one. I really needed the tool, didn't want to wait a week...

Went to Harborfreight bought the following:

1) Large impact socket (? 1 3/4)... 4$
2) Impact extension, 2 inch. 4$
3) Old screw driver. 0$
4) Old 13inch socket with 1/2 inch extension... 0$

Aligned the socked with the cam gear. Cut the screwdriver shaft, which is hardened steel, into 3 2 inch pieces.

Put the pieces into the sprocket holes, held on with a worm clamp used for hoses.

Welded on the pieces to the socked...

Welded on the extension to attach a breaker bar...

Now here is the totally nifty part where things just "work out."

The cheap harbor freight extension with a 13mm socket fit PERFECTLY into the large socket. The shaft fits PERFECTLY into the hole meant for the socket wrench.

Voila!!! Perfect tool, total cost 10$.

One cambolt came right off. The other one snapped the extension. So, used a larger diameter higher grade extension. Problem is, it wouldn't fit into the sockets hole. Put it on a drill press (don't have a lathe), ran a belt grinder against it to cut it down slightly, and it fit like a charm... I originaly tried to drill out the socket hole... that didn't work so well. Just chewed up the drill bits.

Will try to post pics later...

Would it have made mores sense to buy the tool? Maybe. But I can make it, so why not. :)

Mark Henry 08-14-2017 08:19 AM

Yep, I do it all the time.
One non-Porsche tool I made was for breaking tractor tire beads, about $750 to buy new, for a tool I may use a couple times a year. Made it from scrap steel and $25 in parts.

If some one starts a shop made tool thread I'll post some pic's. ;)

Trackrash 08-14-2017 08:27 AM

Yea, I won't bore you with all the tools I have made....

Back on topic, I thought I would share the method I used on my last build to remove the valve guides. Kind of a hybrid method.

I used a 10mm tap to thread the spring end of the guides. Then screwed in a 10mm bolt.

I used my press to push out the guides, after heating the heads, using a 1/4" socket extension, which fits in the guide. I pushed out the guides from the seat side. I supported the head using an appropriately sized deep socket positioned where the valve spring sits.

I didn't have to worry about some weird angled support or any damage caused by my air hammer or the sledge I have used in the past.


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