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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Off grid in Eastern ONtario
Posts: 234
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Head stud tightening methods
I have searched this but couldn't find an answer. This is for a 3.2.
Factory manual says 11 ft-lb then 90 degrees, with no mention of reotorquing Wayne's book and several posts say two stages, final tightening to 23.5, with re-torquing after a bit of running. I followed the factory method - the nuts are considerably tighter than 23.5. Also, there is no way to re-torque later with the tighten then 90 degree method. To the best of my knowledge, when bolts are tightened by a stretch method (which essentially the factory method accomplishes) there is no need for later re-torquing. Properly installed rod bolts would be an example. So, what is the right thing to do?
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Bob D. '84 Carrera - MAF, Wong chip, RSR flywheel, ER bushings and other bits, CTR fiberglass F/R bumpers, 7/9 Fuchs, 22/27 TB, 22/21 SB, bunch of other little stuff '69 Lotus 7 Series 3; '74 Fiat X1/9 '14 X5 diesel |
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07-30-2006, 05:05 PM
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Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 3,346
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A few people recommend re-torquing headstuds. The rest of us and the factory recommend not.
-Andy
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72 Carrera RS replica, Spec 911 racer |
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07-31-2006, 07:41 PM
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I've always checked mine on new engines after a few hundred miles or so... Never had one that needed to be re-torqued...
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Chris ---------------------------------------------- 1996 993 RS Replica 2023 KTM 890 Adventure R 1971 Norton 750 Commando Alcon Brake Kits |
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08-01-2006, 10:52 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Off grid in Eastern ONtario
Posts: 234
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Quote:
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Bob D. '84 Carrera - MAF, Wong chip, RSR flywheel, ER bushings and other bits, CTR fiberglass F/R bumpers, 7/9 Fuchs, 22/27 TB, 22/21 SB, bunch of other little stuff '69 Lotus 7 Series 3; '74 Fiat X1/9 '14 X5 diesel |
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08-01-2006, 03:50 PM
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1970 Porsche 911 S 
