How to remove a stripped head nut
 

I guess I have been one of the lucky ones to have just ONE head stud or nut problem. All went well till I stripped the Hex nut. So, how do I get the bugger off? The location of the problem is on the exhaust side cylinder #5
Thanks
John
3.2 Carrera

I think I'd go in with a Dremel and cut the stud under the cylinder. You're replacing studs anyway right?

buy a big spiral easyout, cut the end off so the taper just begins to enter the nut, wack it in tight with a big hammer, and use a breaker bar to crack it loose. it should actually expand the top of the nut as it's hammered in, if you fit it right. typical on 3.2 engines.

If I use a dremel to cut off the stud. What do I use to remove the stud from the case? I was going to use the snap-on collet type stud remover.

Thanks
John

You can also apply heat to the stud to relieve some of the tension in the stud.

Apply heat, and use the ez-out, you should be in good shape.

cutting the stud is a last resort, unless of course your replacing the studs anyway.

If you're not a production shop that might get more frequent use out of the tool JW mentioned, and you are indeed replacing studs, I stand by my suggestion. Torch and vice grip to remove remaining stud. BTDT - takes 5 mins.

the easyout doesn't need heat. it will take the nut off the stud. they're cheap too. get a #6, and it does need to be shortened as described. a cut-off disc is the best way.

That sounds ugly...

Good luck!

-Michael

Which part sounds ugly, cutting the stud or using the easyout?

This is a new one on me. I have struggled with this problem in the past and without a dought this method is the best I have heard.

Even an old dog can learn new tricks, if he listens.
Thanks John

The ugly part I think would be cutting the stud. Usually, if I round a nut off or something like that I just use a dremel and cut it down the axis and split it open. I'm not sure that can be done here due to access issues.

-m

actually split the nut this time, but usually the nut just flares out at the top. never had a failure with this tool, and they get so tight that a 2 ft breaker bar is needed to snap them loose. a 1/2 impact won't do it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158765998.jpg

Perfect Picture!

Thanks for everyone that responded to my post. This is what I use to remove the head nut. Found a cheap screw extrator from Sears for about $6 and use a Dremel to cut off 1/2 from the top so I would fit snuggly into the nut. Pounded it in with a hammer and use a two foot breaker bar to remove it. Here are the pics.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158950336.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1158950365.jpg

Newsflash: Stripped head stud barrel bolt succumbs to Pelican community experience & ingenuity. Thank you John Walker.

"V"

It's my turn. I have 2 of them on my 3.2 (3.4) about to strip.

2 studs weren't deep enough into the case making the "drive" of the barrel nut too shallow.

My fault, I rebuilt it before! Should have fixed it.

Half-@$$ery has bitten me.

A 7/16" Allen would work that could be beaten into the 10mm drive, me thinks....

When ever I've run into a stripped head nut, I hammer in a XZN12 bit and try that

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/271963...-1/s-l1000.jpg

If that doesn't work I hammer a 12 pt socket over the outside and try again, so far I've gotten every one

http://www.gearwrench.com/MagentoSha...NT_MAIN_20.jpg

I do like the easy out idea, never thought about cutting it down.

I started with a 12mm allen key socket.
Shaped the sides down in a taper (equal amounts) to end up with a tip that measures 10mm

I drove the tapered tip into the already damaged barrel nuts (the blow also helped to loosen them).
This provided enough bite to turn them loose, combined with heat + a pneumatic impact wrench, I was able to get all the stubborn ones removed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1484819460.JPG

John's method def sounds much easier than my method (OCD and labour intensive to prepare)

You know what worked for me?

Using the same 10mm, cheap allen socket I had, I simply used my electric 1/2" impact.

Leaned on top of it, and zinged them right off with ease. :cool:

Valve grinding compound
 

Put valve grinding paste on your tool.No comments Rawknees.Then inside the nut with a small acid brush.Two foot bar for leverage and give it a quick crack after brief heating with a #2 torch head.Fred

Never ! :eek:

This will work.
I have used Comet powder cleaner to take up space between the tool and the fastener.
Also make sure the Allen socket is in good shape before you use it. File or grind it until the tool is the original size.
Grinding down a slightly larger Allen socket and jamming it in is a good option too.

Now cutting the spiral easy-out and hammering it in has been added to my future options! Thanks!

Yep, nothing wrong with adding a little grit into the mix from time to time (variety is good!), FaaptasticFred!


^^^

Fixed, and :eek: !!!