How to remove a stripped head nut

[johncmng]

I guess I have been one of the lucky ones to have just ONE head stud or nut problem. All went well till I stripped the Hex nut. So, how do I get the bugger off? The location of the problem is on the exhaust side cylinder #5
Thanks
John
3.2 Carrera

[dtw]

I think I'd go in with a Dremel and cut the stud under the cylinder. You're replacing studs anyway right?

[john walker's workshop]

buy a big spiral easyout, cut the end off so the taper just begins to enter the nut, wack it in tight with a big hammer, and use a breaker bar to crack it loose. it should actually expand the top of the nut as it's hammered in, if you fit it right. typical on 3.2 engines.

[johncmng]

If I use a dremel to cut off the stud. What do I use to remove the stud from the case? I was going to use the snap-on collet type stud remover.

Thanks
John

[TimT]

You can also apply heat to the stud to relieve some of the tension in the stud.

Apply heat, and use the ez-out, you should be in good shape.

cutting the stud is a last resort, unless of course your replacing the studs anyway.

[dtw]

If you're not a production shop that might get more frequent use out of the tool JW mentioned, and you are indeed replacing studs, I stand by my suggestion. Torch and vice grip to remove remaining stud. BTDT - takes 5 mins.

[john walker's workshop]

the easyout doesn't need heat. it will take the nut off the stud. they're cheap too. get a #6, and it does need to be shortened as described. a cut-off disc is the best way.

[euro911sc]

That sounds ugly...

Good luck!

-Michael

[johncmng]

Which part sounds ugly, cutting the stud or using the easyout?

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
buy a big spiral easyout, cut the end off so the taper just begins to enter the nut, wack it in tight with a big hammer, and use a breaker bar to crack it loose. it should actually expand the top of the nut as it's hammered in, if you fit it right. typical on 3.2 engines.

This is a new one on me. I have struggled with this problem in the past and without a dought this method is the best I have heard.

Even an old dog can learn new tricks, if he listens.
Thanks John

[euro911sc]

The ugly part I think would be cutting the stud. Usually, if I round a nut off or something like that I just use a dremel and cut it down the axis and split it open. I'm not sure that can be done here due to access issues.

-m

[john walker's workshop]

actually split the nut this time, but usually the nut just flares out at the top. never had a failure with this tool, and they get so tight that a 2 ft breaker bar is needed to snap them loose. a 1/2 impact won't do it.

[euro911sc]

Perfect Picture!

[johncmng]

Thanks for everyone that responded to my post. This is what I use to remove the head nut. Found a cheap screw extrator from Sears for about $6 and use a Dremel to cut off 1/2 from the top so I would fit snuggly into the nut. Pounded it in with a hammer and use a two foot breaker bar to remove it. Here are the pics.

[vytenis]

Newsflash: Stripped head stud barrel bolt succumbs to Pelican community experience & ingenuity. Thank you John Walker.

"V"

[Tippy]

It's my turn. I have 2 of them on my 3.2 (3.4) about to strip.

2 studs weren't deep enough into the case making the "drive" of the barrel nut too shallow.

My fault, I rebuilt it before! Should have fixed it.

Half-@$$ery has bitten me.

A 7/16" Allen would work that could be beaten into the 10mm drive, me thinks....

[jrbennett]

When ever I've run into a stripped head nut, I hammer in a XZN12 bit and try that



If that doesn't work I hammer a 12 pt socket over the outside and try again, so far I've gotten every one



I do like the easy out idea, never thought about cutting it down.

[Costa P]

I started with a 12mm allen key socket.
Shaped the sides down in a taper (equal amounts) to end up with a tip that measures 10mm

I drove the tapered tip into the already damaged barrel nuts (the blow also helped to loosen them).
This provided enough bite to turn them loose, combined with heat + a pneumatic impact wrench, I was able to get all the stubborn ones removed.


John's method def sounds much easier than my method (OCD and labour intensive to prepare)

[Tippy]

You know what worked for me?

Using the same 10mm, cheap allen socket I had, I simply used my electric 1/2" impact.

Leaned on top of it, and zinged them right off with ease.

[faapgar]

Put valve grinding paste on your tool.No comments Rawknees.Then inside the nut with a small acid brush.Two foot bar for leverage and give it a quick crack after brief heating with a #2 torch head.Fred