1983 911SC Engine Drop

[c138fr]

Hello,

I recently pulled the valve covers on my 1983 911SC (37k original miles) and found 2 broken head studs.... I am attempting my 1st engine drop and would appreciate advice on the safest method for raising the car high enough to slide the engine out the back.

I planned to place the front tires on car ramps with stop blocks installed while placing the ramps on a 6 x 6 solid blocks which would extend beyond the length & width of the ramps. This would give me approx. 16" of front end lift. Secondly, I planned to build 12" high solid blocks and place 24" jack stands on them to raise the rear of the car. I've seen pics of cars with the front tires on the floor but the angle that is needed to remove the engine scares me! My thoughts are to raise the front which would decrease the angle for the drop.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated!!!
Dave

[Scott R]

I'm unfortunetaly on my 5th pull as of this weekend, I use a ATV jack under the motor with 1X6 towards the front of the jack to give it a bit of an angle. I Then jack the car up as high as my main jack goes and set it on large jack stands.

I do all my work and lower the engine down all the way on my ATV jack. I then use another jack and a large 2X6 to jack the car up and over the motor. I scoot the motor out real quick and lower the car back on the jackstands. The whole operation of jacking the body up takes about 90 seconds.

[lusso]

Dave,
I sent you an e-mail. Scott is saying basically the same thing as I am. I managed to pull the engine 3 times during my revamp. It becomes almost second nature after a while.
Two jacks are key but not necessary.
Don't let angle bother you. I've seen factory photos of cars jacked over 30" off the ground w/ just a jack and no stands.
ATV jack, jack w/ board, or even a moving dolly to lower engine on or with will do the job.

Oh, yeah have a helper to keep an eye and ear on things.

If it doesn't come out smooth there is something wrong.

My Haynes manual and my digital camera were my best friends and Wayne's books helped a ton as well.

TAKE YOUR TIME AND BE METHODICAL

Let me know how it goes
Dave

[Scott R]

I have something else I do that's kinda quirky, if I unbolt say the oil return line underneath, I let it drain while I go and work on a say, a fule line or wire harness connection on top. This keeps the floor clean as I have plenty of time to let it dripin the bucket.

[dduclaux]

Removing the rear bumper is quick and easy (See Bentley Manual) and gives you all the clearance you need without the necessity of lifting the car more than once. In other words, when you jack the car up as high as you can get it with the engine still installed (and place the rear torsion bars on jack stands), you will not have to raise the car off of the jackstands after you lower the engine if you have removed the rear bumper. Also, I concur with the use of an ATV jack to lower the engine and roll it from beneath the car. That's the way I do it on my 79 SC. Good luck.

[Motorhead-45]

Leave the front wheels on the ground! Raising the front end only makes it necessary to raise the rear even higher. I make it a two part event. I first raise the rear of the car just high enough to allow me to get under and detach/loosen everything. This keeps the angle low. I then pull the engine/transmission combo and lower it onto a modified furniture dolly. I then raise the rear of the car high enough for the engine to clear the bumper. No need to remove the rear bumper. A good set of 6 ton jack stands give enough height to clear the bumper. One thing I purchased that made my life easy was the purchase of a long frame floor jack that raises up to 32". It's a Harbor Freight special that was only $120.00 on sale.

[cstreit]

Second to what Motorhead sez:

Don't raise the front, no need. I've done more engine drops than I care to remember and never once raised the front to do it.

Assuming you're pulling the engine/trans together? Then no need to worry about the angle, you can move the engine far back enough to clear the sift selector rod so it won't catch on the body. If you seperate the engine to pull it, I suppose you could raise the front a bit, but I'd make sure it's VERY stable because you'll have to horse on the engine pretty good to get it out.

(Subscribing to this thread if you need more help)

[Scott R]

Has there ever been a poll on which was easier, dropping the engine with tranny, or without? I can't imagine not dropping them together, one I have the motor out I just pop the tranny off and I'm done with it. Not to mention its so much easier to stab the thing back in on the floor.

[cstreit]

I'm about 50/50 on that. With SC and earlier cars I find it just as easy to pull the engine out seperately. Once you get to the G50 trans then it's almost a necessity to pull them together....

[c138fr]

Thanks for everyone's advice! My first engine drop is accomplished!!! Now to remove those stubborn exhaust bolts, replace the head bolts, fix minor oil leaks, clean up engine bay, etc.

[Motorhead-45]

Heat will be your best friend for removing thos stubborn bolts and nuts. Heating the exhaust nuts until they begin to glow makes removing them much easier. You'll also need heat to release the locktite holding the cylinder studs in the block.