Engine Parts Cleaner Recommendation
 

I am in the process of changing over to synthetic lube, grease,...mobil 1...AND I was wondering what chemicals you all are using in your parts cleaners??

I have been using simple green, mix of gunk & kerosene, brake cleaner as my major cleaners.

Since moving to syn prods, what works best for my 20 gal parts tank to remove old grease, old oil, caked on s&*t combo of road crap and the above...soak the parts for a day in what??

Please make suggestions for steel hdwr/parts AND also for alum/mag parts...I think the suggestions will be different for the different metals.

Thanks! Bob

Bob,

I used some purple cleaner readily available at most auto parts stores, it's non-corrosive and did not eat up my parts washer. Not to mention it was eco-friendly and not expensive. Don't use in full stregth, another source for similiar stuff is sold at harbor freight stores. It works great is in just as cheap.

Good luck,

Alex

thank you Alex.

Any other inputs out here in Porsche World??

Thanks, Bob

I purchased actual parts cleaner solution from Napa, it was 20 gallons for $145 about a year ago. This solution was approved for aluminum which seemed key to me at the time. Its held up well, and when it comes time to change it can call a local service to recycle it.

This question comes up fairly regularly. My favorite is unscented mineral spirits. It's cheap, it cleans better then anything that I've tried previously, the smell isn't overwhelming and it doesn't rust holes in metal parts washers. Anything water based I've found to be worse then using nothing at all since they usually initiate a coorosive reaction on the metal, and they turn a lot of the caked on stuff into something similar to concrete.

I did this transaxle case in my parts washer in 20 minutes with a brush and a small screw driver.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1105201914.jpg

Thanks Scott & John. Great input.

Has anyone herd of "Super Agitine" made by Graymills company in IL?? I have been told that it cleans great...for all metals and this specific formulation has Lanolin in it so parts dont rust immediatley after cleaning and it is friendly on your skin and the environment.
Any opinions on this stuff??

Thanks again, Bob

While I usually use parts solvent, I've also used diesel fuel for really caked on stuff. It's worked well as a primary cleaner and relatively inexpensive.

Mineral spirits in my 20 gal parts washer.

Tried the bio stuff from Northern Tool and I would have died from old age before the parts were clean. Got rid of it the bio stuff the first weekend.

Thumbs up on using Diesel!

Thanks guys for all of the options. Looks like a several step process.

After one gets to the base metal, lets say alum of the case or the 915 trans, how does one get that spotless BRIGHT Silver metal color like what John above got? Spill John...how did you get this final result? (I dont want to paint or powder coat...I like bare el natural metal...maybe rattle can clear laquer spraypaint to protect metal and appearance for the next 5 yrs or till needs service again after final cleaning ) It looks perfect!!!!!!! My guess is to use MEK or Laquor thinner or mineral spirits or paint stripper...flush reallyy well after, then maybe the clear laquer spaint??

After I get this figured out I will post my results...just trying to get the chemical(s) needed so I can start.
Bob

Hey John a.k.a. Jluetjin - Please help us all out on what you used to get the bright silver color on your trans?? I guess I could experinment, however, I dont want to do lasting damage to anything... Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :-)

Silver??? That's magnesium's natural flat gray. After I cleaned everything up, I then coated the outside with Tectyl, and sprayed the inside surfaces with WD-40.

It was Kurt V who had cleaned up the aluminum 915, so you'll need to ask him about what he did.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1105640809.jpg

In that picture, you can still see the black, caked on "cement" stuff that is often left over after cleaning with water-based solutions. I've found that this stuff is a lot harder to get off after washing a part with water based cleaners then it would be if you had just started with mineral spirits in the first place. I'm no chemist, but it seams that the water based cleaners pull the lighter oils out of that crud, and leave the solids "cemented" in place. Mineral spirits disolves all of the oils, and then any solids which remain easily brush off.

I suspect that once you use water based cleaner on Aluminum or Magnesium, it will start to corrode almost immediately. Letting it dry and then sealing it with a varnish or something like that I suspect will not stop the corrosion from continuing underneath that finish. You could try baking it right after washing to speed up the drying process, but I'd still be concerned about any residual chemicals on the part that will still corrode the metal. Mineral spirits will not do this.

As far as getting the mineral spirits, almost any paint supply, hardware or even Walmart should have it.

Thanks John!! I'll try the mineral spirits and see where it takes me. I have valve covers, engine case, 915 trans case, cooling fan & its schroud, engine tin and hdwr to clean.

I'll let you all know how this works out!!

Bob

A lot of the 'engine degreaser spray cans' are just diesel. I fill a 5 gallon pail and just soak things in it till they are clean.

PBH- Have you ever used mineral spirits? In your use of diesel fuel, do you have to scrub the parts and how about any gasket mat'l on parts?? Does it come off or soften up enough??
Is this the first step in cleaning, last step maybe your only step by increasing duration till clean?? Any discoloration to the parts? How do you finish off the cleaning process?? just wipe dry?? spray on wd40 to prevent any rust??
Thanks!! Bob

I bought a cement mixing tub and used 3 gallons of diesel fuel at 2.79 per gallon.

I found must gunked on stuff if left sitting would scrub off easily with a nylon brush.

While not quite fair with the new powdercoating, you get the cleaning idea...
Before
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167967492.jpg

After
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167967603.jpg

Check the farm supply places. Around here it's Tractor Supply. They have the good old nasty leave your hands dry as bone parts cleaner in 5 gal cans for around 40 bucks. Doesn't smell as bad as Mineral Spirits (still smells tho) and does a better job in my opinion. You can rinse parts in hot water after and then blow dry with compressor. Tractor Supply has a web site you can check it out there to see what its called. Something like PCS1000 or PSC1000 anyhow seems to be good stuff.
Keep the 5 gal can to dump back into when ready to get rid of.

Hi Jeremy,

Looks like great results!! Especially $$ wise... Can you explain the process- step by step- what you did to get this result on the trans?? Did you do any polishing on the trans or final surface treatmant to try and retain this finish??

You have the least $$ so far...not that the cost is my objective, however, no need to spend more than necessary. Or, I would spend more on anything as long as it can be well proven to provide superior results vs. the "regular" method of what ever the project is at the time.

Thankyou!! Bob

I have a wash tank, so the diesel is the first step, mineral spirits (wash tank) are next. I like it because a) it's cheap b) I can soak things c) it's not super-flammable.

It definitely isn't perfect. It does stink, it does discolor some stuff, and it still requires wire brushing and scraping.

With the transmission - basically I put some diesel in a sprayer - and sprayed it on over a couple of days letting it soak. Then I power washed it - then I sprayed it with a little simple green and a nylon bristle brush...

Thats it Jeremy??
Did you get all of the tiny black spots off by this process??
Did you polish or any other surface prep/work??
Lastly, did you seal-er up with anything?? Spray clear laquer
paint,...

Thanks again!!

Bob

An update for those who may be interested in my progress...

I cleaned upper and lower valve covers, cooling fan and transmission housing today in parts tank using Super Agitine solvent having let parts soak overnight. Results: all grime came off with the help of a stainless steel wire brush, pick and lots of elbow grease. I am convienced that the parts are clean, however, I did not get the "shinny silver alum color" I am looking for.

So, the next step was to was to try ALL of my other chemicals with no change to the grey speckles on the alum finish. I tried: mineral spirits, thinner, acetone, paint remover, naval jelly, carb claener, simple green, original formula Easy-Off oven cleaner. My next thought we to try a batch of 50/50 mutiatic acid and water to see if this will give me all silver alum finish.

However, I am leary to try acid as I dont want to permanently damage the finish or integrity of the parts.

ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT TO DO TO GET SILVER ALUM COLOR??
Thanks, Bob

I finished the transmission off with a nylon bristle wheel
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/nbb350.jpg

engine parts cleaner recommendation
 

here is the picture though not as strak of a difference as in person. Al of my parts look gray and tired...now what??http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168224684.jpg

what were the results of using the wheel? Any pictures? Do you use the wheel on a cordless drill? Where to get and please describe the wheel type/material...
Thanks Jeremy!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168225513.jpg

Got it at home depot - regular drill - now you know why some many people powdercoat - unless you are going to spend an inordinate amount of time with air tools and felt polishing wheels - it will be tough to get a nice finish.

Has anyone tried bead blasting? Seems like it might be an easier way to get the nooks and cranies of a transmission clean.

Geoff

I would be willing to bet, Jeremy, that using the plastic wire brush leaves a burnish type of finish that may well help to seal the pores of the metal(alum) and thus enable the finish to last longer. No??

No doubt, the powder coat guts may look better, but in my opinion it looks too good...not OE as I am a die hard OE guy...just like to tweak what I can and make it a sleeper in all regards... ;-)

What specific nylon brush, if you can say more and what goop to use with the polishing wheels? Weinal(sp) maybe??

BRUSH OR FELT POLISHING WHEEL FIRST??


Thanks for your input and patience with my fussy a*& questions...what can I say I am a perfectionist!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob

another update...just received "Gibbs" special snake juice...I dont mean any negative conotations, however, it appears to not going to be able to get rid of the dark grey spots on my alum valve covers...

Sharks hide arriving tomorrow to try as a last step sealant along with Everbrite sealant I recently purchased and have put on the intake runners...

I am off to try and find out how to EASILY brighten up these valve covers... maybe I will wind up having to polish them??

I will see if I can find anything here on the board...then I will google it...stay tuned (if anyone cares) and feel free to make suggestions.
Bob

Hey Tweaks - After looking at you parts....I think there the Magnesium part, they'll never look like the aluminum stuff. That being said, they are lighter and you have the "exotica" appeal. Man, save your time, its easy to make aluminum shine. You'll never make Mag look anything more than dull grey.
Cheers,
Nabil

I have used a mixture of 25% fuel oil (diesel), and 75% Mineral Spirits in my parts washer for years. The fuel oil retards evaporation of the spirits, resulting in less odor and replenishment.

I've had great results using Shark-Hide as a sealant on aluminum.

Check some of Grady Clays posts in transmission threads, his knowledge base is larger than all of us combined and he describles a compound/coating that Porsche sprayedon the exposed underside of new cars back in the 60's -70's. It apparently protects for years, does not leave a bright finish but rather a kind of muted gray.
I'll see if I can find the name of the compound
Here is a link to one thread...re: Tectyl
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/323559-rust-mag-tranny-case.html

UPDATE**

After WAYYYYYYYYYYY TOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MUch time on the cleaning of the engine parts, here is what I have learned to date and wanted to share with fellow Pelicans that may want to do this or I can do this for anyone.

I have tried most if not all of the chemicals out there...my conclusions are as follows:
1.This info is for Alum upper & lower valve covers (alum) &
breather intake fitting that mounts to top of engine.

2. I throughly cleaned with Super Agatine solvent, avail from Grainger for best $$, recommended by Chris Bennet...this completly cleaned the parts AND left a lanolin type of coat so the parts will not rust after this cleaning. This cleaner has performed as Chris said it would...Great stuff!!

3. Took all 5 items to my local machine shop which does a ton of marine propeller repair and refurbishing i.e. they work with alum, stainless, bronze and steel all the time...put all items into their tumblers which they use when finished doing prop work or any metal work that wants a smooth professional finish when completed. 1st tumbler is to remove rough areas, 2nd smooths things out and the last used corn husk to make the shine...the attached pictures dont do these justice, however, they are silky smooth like a babys a$$. (1st & 2nd tumbler used ceramic cones)

4. As you can see, the uppers which are a smooth surface came out best! The lower covers w/webbing prevented the cones from getting to the surface. The uppers were black speckled as the lowers were prior to going into the tumbler. Maybe one could media blast the lowers but this tumbler wont be able to get in there to smooth things out after.

***Now what do I do????????/ Shark hide, Gibbs, Mothers Mag wax, clear powder coat,... I am now in need if help from you all on what will work best to preserve this finish which I have sooooooooooooo much time into.

Any and all inputs greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Bobhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168894375.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168894396.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168894414.jpg

First you make sure your valve covers are still flat...

...just checked and WOW!!!!!! all 4 of the covers anr no longer flat. Guess I'll need to get what grit of sandpaper and wd-40? and put on a pc of glass and sand till flat again??

Wow I cant believe how much they changed...thx for the tip!! What do you think happened? No heat here...just a whole lot of vibrating to get the finish...

Tweaks,

Sorry to hear that. The grit depends on how out of whack they are. You can use 50 grit first so you are not sanding all day, then finish it off with 120 grit or so. I would guess tumbling around caused the deformities. They do look nice though. What did they look like before tumbling?

SP2, The uppers looked like the lower covers except there was no shine what so ever...just dull dull looking...they were making me feel older than I am...I had to do something!! :-)

I will do the sandpaper idea w/wd-40 as a lube.

I was hoping some others would chime in on what has worked best to seal/preserve/maintain the easiest & best this awefully difficult obtained finish I want to keep!!
Thanks in advance everyone!! Bob

Stress relief is my guess. I sort of suspected the tumbling might do that.

As for the finish, I don't think you can keep that polished look forever, I would powder coat them.

Varsol is the best.. but not Eco Friendly, be careful