'89 964 Case Assembly Questions

[sms1305]

1. The factory book specifies loctite 270 for most studs; engine builder sent me loctite 262, which seems very similar. Can I use 262 where it calls for 270?

2. Anyone have the installation specs for ARP rod bolts? I think it should be ARP kit 204-6001 (but it could be 6004?). I can't find the instructions so if you can help me with the torque and installation specs, and whether it should have loctite 270/262. Does anyone have a copy of the instructions they could scan and send?

3. Can anyone confirm the height of the head studs at 132 or 135 mm with the ARP studs. Book says 132 mm for original. Loctite 270/262 on the case end? Recommended? Not recommended? Optional? Other? On this point, I note the quick set up for the 270/262 and that they are supposed to be torqued within 30 minutes before it sets up. Does that mean that I should install one cylinder set at a time and then assemble the piston, cylinder, and head - rather
than install all the head studs at once??

4. Book calls for thin coat of loctite 574 on No. 8 bearing (left side). I assume that's just for placement so it doesn't fall off during case mating. Sealant on bearings doesn't make sense to me . . . heat dissapation problems?? [I know that some of this has been discussed on the "ultimate engine sealing" thread, but I've decided to stay with what's in the factory book as much as possible.]

5. Can a stretch gague be used on the head studs, too?

6. Should the crankshaft seals be installed after case assembly or before/during?

7. The book calls out loctite 649 and 639 for some things. These don't show up on the loctite website. What are they and what substitute is appropriate?

8. The attached pics are of the bearing sets. I notice, especially with the main bearings, that they don't appear of consistent color. Before I open them up, anyone have a concern based on how they look?

9. The book says to torque case thru bolts BEFORE the perimeter studs. Some suggest the other way around, doing the perimeter first. I am just sensitive to the fact that unlike a traditional block, the case halves are the bearing seats, which seems more important than worrying about minor leakage at perimeter. I would probably do them in 3 steps anyway. Any advice?

Thanks!

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[ChrisBennet]

Go with the factory methods - if you don't mind the leaks.
A lot of 964 motors have wet bottoms.
Go with Henry's sealing advice and you will be a happier camper.
(The 964 motor I built back oin 2004 is still leak free.)
-Chris

[kirkf]

********Question #4
Here is the collective advice I gathered from this forum for case sealing
-Outer Case Halves: Threebond 1104
-Bearing Saddle Surfaces: Loctite 574
-#8 Bearing (balancer end) O-Ring: Threebond 1211
-Case Thru Bolts: Dow Corning 111 on Green Viton O-Rings
-Flywheel Seal: Curil-T? (*** Preferred Dry ***)
-Balancer Seal: Curil-T
-Intermediate Shaft Cover to Case: ThreeBond 1211
-Oil Breather Cover to Case: ThreeBond 1211
-Cylinders to Case: Curil K-2 or ThreeBond 1211
-Cam Towers to Cylinder Heads: Threebond 1104
-Cam Chain Housings to Case: Threebond 1104
-Cam Chain Housings to Cam Towers: Threebond 1104
-Cam Chain Housing Cover to Cam Chain Housing: Threebond 1104
-Gaskets: Thin coat of Loctite 574

********Question #5
I am not sure about what ARP recommends but I would use the factory method of:
1st stage 20Nm
2nd stage 90 deg +/- 2 deg

********Question #6
Yes the seals can be installed afterward. I would recommend the flywheel seal in particular not be installed before the case halves are mated. I had a real problem with it pushing out.

********Question #9
On my case I think I did perimeter first then case through bolts

Kirk

[Jeff Alton]

I got the ARP info from a quick phone call when I put mine together. My notes are not with me, otherwise I would tell you!

I used Henry's advice on the 3.6 I built a while back and it seems to be nice and dry.

I also used most of his advice on my 3.4 build, but I have not fired that one up yet, so time will tell......

The first key is to use the best seals available (viton) get a Wrightwood Racing Gasket kit (check with Pelican first). Then you have a solid base to start with.

Cheers

[kirkf]

I agree about the wrightwood gasket set. Much better quality than the Victor Reinz set. The only thing I didnt like was the flywheel seal. I had problems with it and ended up using a genuine porsche seal that worked perfectly.

Kirk

[quint22cp]

I used ARP head studs. (although mine is a 1988 3.2)

The back of the ARP bolt box said 34 ft lb, I rang ARP and they said 38 ft lb. These seemed excessive so I played safe and went with the torque from Wayne's book.

I read the post on here about a guy with ARPs who had pulled studs in his 964. I figure its easier to torque them up a bit more if need be but slightly more difficult to Helli-coil the case !!!

footnote:
The 3.2 to 3.5 is coming along OK I will hopefully finish the long block this weekend