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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,964
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Future rebuild - what to start buying
I know I have a rebuild in the future. Car runs fine currently, but with age and mileage, I know it's inevitable at some point. Plus I know I'll want to squeeze more HP out of it at some point as well.
So, my question is - if I have an idea of where I want to go with the future build (currently a 3.0, thinking bumping up to 3.2 w/carbs, etc) what can I start looking for now to help spread the costs of parts. For example, if I find a set of 3.2 heads, what specifically should I be looking for, or avoiding? Or, if a set of PMO's come up, same question. I know it's a very broad question, just looking for a little feedback so I can avoid buying what appears to be a good deal on something used, but would end up being the wrong part for whatever reason. Thanks guys!
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'81 SC |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
Posts: 9,032
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toddu,
There are lots of different approaches to choose from. If you buy new spare parts at reasonable cost, you will be ahead in the long run. Even if you change your mind, NOS has been historically very valuable. Another approach is to buy distressed engine cores. Some can be rebuilt and others parted out. I am in favor of building a spare replacement engine while you continue to enjoy your healthy 3.0. Collecting the right set of parts; say a 74.4 crank & rods, a new set of 100 mm Mahle Nikasil, twin plug ignition, the right case, heads, etc. gives you the opportunity to “do it right.” Being sorta in the “junk 911 engine” hobby business is both fun and allows you access to cool parts at bargain prices. You will win some and loose some but overall you will find out and get what you want. Great education. Once you have your “replacement installed and running, then you can rebuild your original SC 3.0 without any time pressure. It would be interesting to poll how long Pelicans take to home-build their engines. I suspect the average may be one year. Best, Grady
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ANSWER PRICE LIST (as seen in someone's shop) Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 |
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Less brakes, more gas!
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Grady: you should start that poll... but, split it. One for 1st time builders and one for those who are on their 2nd/3rd/4th etc... I'm pretty sure the 1st timers will be on the yr+ side and the others more like 3-6 mos or less for guys such as yourself.
Toddu: I was in your shoes... except my engine was already dead ![]() You have to spend hours on eBay and watch the 911 Classifieds on both Pelican and Rennlist. Also early S Registry if you are building one of those. This has to become a total routine and almost around the clock. The deals are there, you just have to be quick and lucky ![]() Outside of my head job which was expensive, I'm probably well under $1500 in parts for my OEM 3.0 rebuild. Charity and time (going on 18 months) has allowed me to scavenge all kinds of barely used/NOS/new parts. My big costs are tools and heads. Its good that you are starting now. Regardless of your direction there are many parts that you will need: * Gasket/seal kit for top and bottom * Valve cover kit * An exhaust system worthy of your new motor * twin plugged heads/valve covers * Main bearings (slight risk here if you need a regrind) * lay shaft bearings * New chains and ramps * Optional new hardware * Performance head studs * Light flywheel probably * Sealants etc.. Grady can add more light here on things that you can use regardless of motor direction. Best regards, Michael
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![]() ![]() '82 Euro SC 'Track Rat' 22/29 Hollows, 22/22 Tarrets, Full ERPB F/R, Rennline Tri Brace, Glass bumpers, Pro 2000's, 5 pts, blah blah blah '13 Cayenne GTS |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,964
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Appreciate the feedback guys.
For a little clarification, my car is not my daily means for transportation, so I would be ok without for a period of time. While I consider myself pretty handy, do most of my own work, and really bought the car to give me something to tinker with, I'm personally going to leave something as important as the motor to someone more experienced in that department than myself. I'm also somewhat interested in keeping matching numbers (probably pointless), so wouldn't buy another engine to build while leaving the current one in so I can drive it around. So, my basic thought was, if I do come across some of the bigger components I know I'm going to need for sale and used what am I looking for. Grady mentioned 100mm heads. Info like that, so if I see 98mm used heads I don't go and buy them (just throwing that out as an example). Or, maybe I don't even need to worry about this as potentially the hired rebuilder has sources for this type of thing anyway.
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'81 SC |
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Tools, tools, tools. Get the right ones and life is much easier.
Engine stand Torque wrench 5mm allen for a ratchet, to tighten rocker arms Feeler guages Gloves Parts cleaners Trays to clean parts in Brushes etc. to clean parts with Jackstand, motorcycle jack, some way to get engine out of car and on stand. Rubber floor tiles and comfortable shoes A sheet of steel (stainless is better) to cover your bench with Gasket kits Bearings, rod and main RSR rocker arm seals Timing chains Piston/cylinders or if your lucky new rings Cams Exhaust Resurface rocker arms Send out or clean oil tank yourself Send out or clean oil pump yourself Powdercoat engine tin Clean, paint, or get a new engine shroud Spark plug wires Spark plugs Rebuild dizzy (send out for recurve) Exhaust and muffler Valves Valve springs Valve spring retainers New engine mounts New transmission mounts Fuel filter Possibly fuel pump Clean up the ol transmission Rebuild your cv's Replace "sound" pad Take your time.
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74 911s neverending story. two feet and a jetta for now. |
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,325
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+1 to the above comments.
Before you start to buy anything spec out the build. It is good to be able to describe the characteristics you are seeking(torque, peak HP, 25hr motor or 100,000 mile) and how you will be using the car street, street/track, track only. Think it through from induction to exhaust, oiling, ignition and engine management. Once you know everything will work together you can then develop a bill of materials to work from and check things off as you find them. Realize if you change one component it can flow through the entire build. In the past I have come across 1 interesting part and then created the build around that, not the recommended approach. Regards, Bob |
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Highlands Ranch, CO 80126
Posts: 225
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As someone who is about ready to fire up my first rebuild (18 months) I suggest you heed boba's advice and know exactly what you plan to build. If you make ANY changes to the stock set up, budget time "waiting for parts." It took me three months to get everything I needed to make the air ducts work AFTER I thought I had everything.
Having a plan also allows you to budget accurately. Avoid the temptation to alter your plan mid-course. The "deal" you get on one part can easily be offset by the added costs to make the part work. I left the exhaust until the end (it gets bolted on last, right?) and was shocked when I found my options were SSIs with primary tubes too small for my configuration or $3,500 custom headers to allow me to run both heat and stock style muffler (parts I bought on sale). If you just want something to tinker with then maybe a Porsche is not the car for you. One, they are Expensive. Two, they are addicting. I understood neither of these points when I got mine. Today, however, I appreciate the advice "If you want more horsepower, remove the stereo." It is a lot cheaper to make your car lighter. Welcome to the club, leave your checkbook at the door. Rich
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Rich Kessel 79 R.o.W. 911 SC |
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: louisville
Posts: 1,317
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I have to agree with the above statements You read about a lot of people getting in over there head and trying to hard to make there engine "perfect". What I did is bought a core 2.2T engine and a gasket kit take it apart see how it all works put it back together and installed it in my car. I know it won't last forever but it was alot cheaper of a learning curve then going at it full steam with my wallet wide open.
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Tony Proasi 1969S 1957 VW Pickup |
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Hmmm, the idea of the poll to find out average build time is a good one. I'm curious. I've got almost 3 months on mine and I've not gotten any parts back yet from machining.
BTW, get the layshaft bearings first....they're a little hard to come by right now, and pretty pricy at about $40.
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Ed Hughes 2015 981 Cayman GTS 6 speed,Racing Yellow Past:1984 911 Targa (Ruby), 1995 993C2 (Sapphire), 1991 928S4 |
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Slippery Slopenose Victim
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 666
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Not much to add from the above . How ever after getting my cylinders and heads back I was rather surprised to find that a common item such as wrist-pin retainers ( an item I feel should be renewed at a time like this ) was not in stock and had to come out of Germany .
Shouldn't take too long but still a hold-up at this point . Always the little things that trip you up ...............(well at least me ) . SxS
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sxsman@hotmail.com Have guns , will travel Mr. Potato-head , 1974 911 Slant/turbo look 2.7 1963 Cooper S ex-C sedan , 1974 Vespa Rally , 1974 TVR 2500M (sold) ( Musta had massive head trauma in 74 , ya think ? ) |
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Good luck with your project!
Also, most important as all above have said, AND don't forget to buy Wayne's How to book. If nothing else, Wayne's book will help you with asking the right questions of the mechanic doing the work and to purchase the right stuff for your rebuilt 911 engine. Take your time and have fun while doing it...no rush is a must. Hey Wayne, how's that for a sales pitch? ha. ![]()
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Ed Paquette 1983 911SC 1987 944S 1987 944 Manual (Donated to the Nat. Kidney Foundation) 1987 944 Automatic (Recently sold to another Pelican) |
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