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What is considered a full top end re-build?
I have a number of projects for the winter. Some serious leaks at external oil cooler, valve cover leaks, inner and outer CV's on the rear and brakes.
I was thinking I would attempt a partial refresh. From what I gather, this is called a top end rebuild. What does that include? To do this, do I need to drop the engine? Will this cost me a fortune? Can I destroy the car as I am mechanically inclined but never opened a porsche before. Thanks for any thoughts and comments? Bjorn
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Bjorn 1987 911 Carrera 2001 Volvo XC70 |
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You should read a couple of books on rebuilding 911 engines. Dempsey's book and Bruce Anderson's book. You'll then be able to decide if you can do a rebuild. You don't say how many miles you have on your engine, but that will help determine the extent of your rebuild. Most likely you could just do a valve job and change out the lower headstuds. All this is explained in the books. The other jobs are easy 1 or 2 day jobs. Yes you have to pull the engine to do a top end.
-Andy
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A full top end includes all new clutch parts and new huge new tool box for the garage. ;-)
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Bjorn,
Do a compression test. The results will determine if and what to do next. Good compression results may only need valve guides. Poor compression results should be followed with a leakdown test to determine where the problem is. How many miles since the engine was last touched? The higher the mileage the more to be done. Lots of "while you're in there". So much of what should be done depends upon the condition of the engine and your own personal expectations. Not for the faint hearted. This project should last the Canadian winter to complete, take your time. Plenty of great advice on this board.
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DOUG '76 911S 2.7, webers, solex cams, JE pistons, '74 exhaust, 23 & 28 torsion bars, 930 calipers & rotors, Hoosiers on 8's & 9's. '85 911 Carrera, stock, just painted, Orient Red |
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Thanks for the comments guy's.
the mileage is 104k miles. No record of it ever being opened up other then valve adjustment which was about 3000 miles ago. It may not need it, I just that it might be nice to reseal everything. And it that is the case, why not do some freshening up while I am in there. I am merely thinking that if it is going to be sitting over the winter I may as well make myself useful. you are right in that I would have lots of time. Does Porsche compression test require any special bits or can any local mechanic do it? b.
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Bjorn 1987 911 Carrera 2001 Volvo XC70 |
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Hi Bjorn,
Although a compression test on a Porsche is the same as other cars, I would find a independent Porsche shop to do the test. Those familiar with Porsches will deactivate the fuel pump and remove the plugs more efficiently. Probably cheaper too. Also better to have a relationship with a good local shop for things you may not be willing or able to handle. Ask around, there will be a recommended shop. A good local independent shop can be a life saver.
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DOUG '76 911S 2.7, webers, solex cams, JE pistons, '74 exhaust, 23 & 28 torsion bars, 930 calipers & rotors, Hoosiers on 8's & 9's. '85 911 Carrera, stock, just painted, Orient Red |
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re. compression test if you want to DIY - I bought one of the Stomski tools. Makes it very easy to get the connection established at the spark plug hole.
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