Finally Making Progress on my Race Engine Project

[jluetjen]

Just an update, I finally got the crankshaft into the crank case today! Whoohooo!!! Wayne's book and the Pelican Rebuild kits has been awesomely helpful. Something that I've found very helpful is that when I tore the engine down (2 years ago now???), I didn't throw anything out, no matter how trivial (excepting the gaskets that I peeled off). I bagged and labeled everything. Now that I'm putting the engine together, I'm able to find stuff with relatively little effort. For example -- the dowl pin that holds in the #8 nose bearing on the crankshaft. When I got to that part off the book, my first response was "#8 Nose bearing????" At first I couldn't find it, but a quick search on this BBS turned up that they are often not replaced, so I checked the box again and there it was! A little more searching turned up the dowl pin and I was good to go after a little cleaing. Wayne's rebuild kits are great for having everything there!

Anyhow, here's a quick picture.

[304065]

Looks good John!.

I hope you saved the metal shims that are used to set the intermediate shaft end play-- these are NLA. I had one, .25mm on my engine that was sandwiched between two paper gaskets and somebody had used black silicone on it so it was hard to see. I'm really glad I didn't throw it out-- not that fabricating a new one out of shim stock is impossible, but it's one less hassle to deal with at the end.

What is that black stuff on the #8 bearing? I see you have left the oil passage open. Many here recommend gluing #8 into the case as discussed in the sealant thread.

Great work and keep the photos coming, they are an inspiration to all of us.

[jluetjen]

euw... I don't know about that intermediate shaft gasket. I doubt I have that. I missed the thread on the sealents, so I'll need to check that out. What was the concensus opinion to use there? The blackish stuff wasn't coming off with brake cleaner, but it appeared to be more of a discoloration then a residue.

Just as a recap for others, this engine (rev 1.0) is somewhat of a "mule" spec engine. It's got 2.2 rods rather then the lighter 2.0 rod, and I didn't port the 2.2S heads since the rules limit me to 36 mm venturis in the carbs. Why make the intake ports bigger then the carb venturis? It will be running on race gas, and will have ~ 10.5:1 CR. The expected redline will be 7500 RPM, but I'll be using a close ratio gear box so I've tried to optimise it to be strong from 5500 to 7500 RPM. So the short form answer is that this engine is being built more for good power within the rev range rather then peak RPM power, and trying no to compromise reliability and longevity. In other words, it's not a "Runoff's motor".

[304065]

John,

Does this look similar? This is the number eight (have to spell it out or the search engine can't find it) bearing from my 901/05 engine. I believe this was re-used by the prior rebuilder because as you can see it doesn't have the slot for the oil relief, which came out in the early 1970s.

I don't know if the distortion is soot from oil over the years or distortion due to heat or what. But I definitely changed this bearing out in favor of a new one. If your is used, and some advocate their re-use, I would measure yours to be sure it's in spec, both in terms of diameter and ovality, before sealing up the case.



Perhaps one of the experienced builders will comment here about this discoloration.

Search for the "Complete engine sealant thread, it's a couple pages back."

[jluetjen]

You know John, if I have one watch on, I always know what time it is. If I wear two then I never know what time it is. That is what I feel like after reading that Sealent thread. Wayne's book says to apply the crankshaft seal with Curel-T, so I did. Everyone on that thread said don't do that. Some people said to use Threebond 1211 on the #8 Nose bearing -- what's 1211??? Henry says to install it dry, then changes his mind and says use a little 1211.

You're not making my day!!!

[304065]

What, a lack of a clear consensus among the professional engine builder community? I'm shocked, shocked that you would suggest such a thing. Actually the whole point of that thread was to summarize the diversity of opinions on the subject so you can choose a method.

To summarize that long thread, some, like Wayne's book, say you should use 574 on the main bearing webs and case perimieter and lay it on thick like the photos. Others say don't use any 574 on the main bearing webs, only on the perimeter, and spread an extremely thin coat that is almost invisible.

Finally, the sealant thread, which suggests that 574 be used on the bearing webs and Three Bond 1104, which is also called Yamabond, on the perimeter. Wayne says use Curil-T both on the flywheel seal and the pulley seal, which, as you have seen, many disagree with. Henry has been consistent in not recommending that. He has also been consistent in recommending gluing in the number eight bearing with Three Bond 1211 (not 1104).

While we're at Wayne also recommends the use of black silicone on the through-bolt o-rings, which he says works for him, while others prefer Dow Corning 111.

The choice is up to you my friend! Here's what I am doing for my '66 street engine.

1) 574 on LEFT half of case perimeter, avoiding oil relief for through-bolt, applied with roller.
2) Whole lotta nothing on main bearing webs.
3) Dow Corning 111 on throughbolts and on number eight o-ring.
4) Three bond 1211 on number eight bearing, on the surface inboard of the o-ring, avoiding the oil pressure relief slot.
5) Gaskets installed dry. The Factory Workshop Manual for the 3,2 actually recommends a thin coat of 574 on the crankcase breather cover, but I'm going to start with the gaskets with the surfaces lapped flat and see if they can work without sealant.

Hope this helps! Hey, it's a race motor, right? I would be more concerned with speed of cleanup after frequent teardowns, might consider 730.

[jluetjen]

ow ow ow ohhhHHHHH

[efhughes3]

Hey, that's what my project is going to look like this weekend!! Nice!!