Case related bits ID help

[gsxrken]

So I got my 3.3 turbo case back from hot tanking and ultrasonic cleaning, oil plugs removed and all galleys and piston squirters cleaned etc.

However, in doing so they removed a few bits I hadn’t and cleaned them and bagged them. So I have a few questions

1. What is / where does the plug with the pointed tip go?
2. Does the 15mm nut that goes on the stud in the left timing chain housing require a washer? It almost appears to be the same sort of stud like the two acorn nuts in the oil cooler housing area that use the o-ring and washer like the case through bolts.
3. I probably have it captured in one of my many photos, but if anyone can save me the trouble- what is where does the hollow bolt and square housing that slides on it go?

[targa72e]

bolt with point looks like the bolts that holds cam spray bar in place on cam tower. The block with hollow bolt is mount for oil pressure sender. it mounts on the right side of case at front of engine.

john

[Flat6pac]

1/. On the end of the oil tube on cam carrier
2/. 17 mm fine thread. Inside left chain box on through bolt
3/. 15 mm capnut is through bolts fine thread
4/. The block and through tube is the base for oil pressure sender
Bruce

[r lane]

1. #3 and#6 end of the cam tower that locks in the oiling tube. #2 a wavy washer. #3 pulley end of case, right side where the cam oil line would go. Takes a shorter oil line and the oil pressure sensor is fitted there.

[gsxrken]

Thank you. So for the cam spray bar plug with the point, should I have two? I only see one in my parts bag. The front two are related to the carrera oil tensioner lines. Looks like the rear of both towers had a plug. Damn

[Walt Fricke]

Ken - you are right - each side has a spray bar, so each side needs this special bolt to locate the spray bar, which needs to be correctly oriented. It is not normally removed unless the spray bar is going to be removed. Removing the spray bar when doing a full rebuild of a well used motor is a best practice, though it isn't as critical as a number of other things, and you can do a decent job of making sure none of the spray bar holes are plugged without removing the spray bar. And removing the locating bolt would allow forcing cleaner through the bar with compressed air to do a better job, because it gives a relatively large hole for cleaner with suspended gunk to get out. If you squirt the air in with the cam in place, you and an assistant can place fingers over all of the spray holes.

Shouldn't be hard to find one - used is just fine.

[gsxrken]

Thanks Walt. I found the other plug right in the same bag, sheesh.
Yeah Dawe’s disassembled the spray bars and sonic cleaned them with the towers etc. I’ve seen where some have installed pipe plugs for easier future service but they reinstalled new press-in plugs. Hopefully with a steady diet of synthetic oil and over the top oil change intervals I never have to see them again anyway.

[Flat6pac]

Mmmmm synthetic oil is not the answer any problem, probably the cause of problems.
Bruce

[winders]

After break-in, I wouldn't run a Porsche engine on anything but synthetic oil. That goes triple for race engines. Other than cost, I can't think of one reason to use non-synthetic oil in this day and age....and cost is not a good enough reason.

[Walt Fricke]

Ah, Dawe's - it went to the right place. Me, I'm not confident that I can be sure the replacement plug would be exactly the right size, and would have to wonder if I should heat the carrier and freeze the plug before tapping it into place. Kind of the same reason I don't try to replace valve guides at home.

And I look on my engines as race motors, so having threaded plugs in the various cleanouts means it is quicker and easier for me to clean those passages on the more frequent rebuilds such engines get. Street motor, good for 200K miles or more, different story.