Yes the oil pick-up tube is only glued in. I haven't had to re-glue one so I'd look for other recommendations but I would thing JB weld should work ok.
Good thing you found that because if it came loose after you buttoned it up you'd have a big problem.

-Andy

The engine stand is right outside. I didn't want to join one unstressed half to the stressed half on a stand. It just didn't seem right, especially since there are only two attachment points and even with the ring I just couldn't bring myself to add all that weight to a half only supported at one end with two bolts, was told not to worry about it but I did. Had it held whilst torquing halfs. Almost out of assembly lube and it's only been used on rebuilds, all different thank goodness:)
Thanks

Well, I don't think I understand or agree with your concerns on using the stand. There have only been what-10's of thousands of rebuilds done on flat sixes in the last 40 something years- using the yokes? My guess is the case moves more at 6,000 RPM than static on a stand.

No need to agree. Not necessary. I'm not out to convince anyone, I've already done that to myself. However it is supported at both ends when at 6k.

I'm with you. Most people I know think a $3000 camera is rather special. Heck, I think a $1000 camera is pretty special. :)

That being said, yeah, let's see some more pics, we all love watching engines go together!

actually the last one in the garage was taken with a 300 dollar 5 year old kodak. The studio stuff was with the Nikon. Just got some new soft boxes in will try them out on the motor.

shaft alignment:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...alinement3.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/DSC_0778.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/DSC_0775.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ssembeled2.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...assembeled.jpg

Cam Timing: anyone care to check my work?
1970 T
valve adjusted to .004in
2.30-2.70 mm of lift at the overlap
shoot for 2.50
guage in inches. 2.50= 0.0984251968505 call it 98 thou
guage at 0.00in @ TDC compression stroke
rotate crank 360 to the overlap position
guage has moved to 0.098, valve is depressed that much.

(after 3 or four repositions of the pin)

feels good to me.

Sounds like you got it!

Cheers

Thanks!
When one does it for the first time it really does help to have it all in front of you. It pretty much falls into place. The description in fig 7-14 (that number brings back memories) of the book is the best of them all.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/100_1850.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/100_1847.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/100_1846.jpg

getting close!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/100_1857.jpg

going in tomorrow, will she fire up on first crank?

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f310/gigem75/2_2.jpg

Put engine in tonight. She fired up during first crank. No leaks. One moment of terror until I remembered you have to sometimes tap the oil pressure glass. Great pressure, smooth!
Will post video tomorrow.

Nothing but static timing, and initial carb settings. Will set timing and sounds like 4 or 5 could use about a half a turn out on idle mixture. There is no way to really know but it was the first crank attempt, Scouts & Aggie Honnor.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...m75/th_911.jpg

Time to close the thread, put 100 miles of easy driving on it Sunday and today. Significant gains in oil pressure, sounds tight, super smooth, no leaks, Webers are dialed in and we are good to go. Thanks to all.

rebuild
 

No one jumped on the 7-14 ref, but I can relate.....


Ahhhhhhhhhh Good Times...........

;);)

I was wondering if anyone would.

Got the engine back in yesterday, retourqued the heads, adjusted the valves, checked everything over. I guess everything happens for the best.... I never even checked the pivot bolt for the clutch fork, it worked it's way loose resulting in no clutch action so I had to pull the engine after circa 400 miles. I thought it strange the clutch fork didn't have any freeplay on the original install and the release bearing was snug against the fork. Turns out there was a flat washer on top of the spring plate which is thinner than the OEM conical washer. The flat washer took up all the free play in the fork. I had ordered a new piviot bolt, spring washer, and conical washer. Upon installing that I had normal free play in the fork and it adjusted out nicely with the cable adjustment. I should be glad that bolt worked loose because I never would have taken that apart and been driving around with a release bearing under a slight amount of load from the fork. I suspect I would have ended up with premature wear on the release bearing. Everything is dialed in great and syncronized webers are beatuiful things.