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Oil Pressure Switch Adaptor
In my rebuild kit for my 2.2 race engine (built on a 2.4TK core) I got the following oil pressure switch (911.606.230.00).
Obviously it doesn't screw directly into the hole as you can see here since it's about half the diameter of the hole. ![]() When I took the engine apart, I made a point not to throw anything out, and when rummaging through the box I found this oil pressure sender (901.741.551.01). Looking at my 2.0E engine that's still in the car, it appears to have the oil pressure sender screwed directly into that location. The sender that I have in the box still as a banjo fitting on it, so it apparently was mounted on one of the external oil lines. Does anyone have a picture of what the adapter looks like to screw into the case, then screw the switch into? Or is there a different configuration for this then what's pictured in Wayne's book. I'm still searching through the shop manual to see if it's got some clarification. What have you guys seen?
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John '69 911E "It's a poor craftsman who blames their tools" -- Unknown "Any suspension -- no matter how poorly designed -- can be made to work reasonably well if you just stop it from moving." -- Colin Chapman |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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Hi John.
There's a "reducing socket" that goes in between. It has M18x1.5 male threads that go into the case and M10x1.0 female threads to accept the sender. For the early cars it's a 901 101 175 01, for the 69E/S it shows 901 110 133 00. ![]() Here it is in place on my '66. This held the pressure transmitter, not a switch, but it's the same fitting. ![]() I believe in later years (post -'74) the factory went to a large-diameter sender, which is probably what you have screwed into the 2,0E. If you look at the date code stamped on the sender, very small and probably on the hexagonal portion, it will probably be '70's or '80s. Now, for an MFI car the adapter is slightly longer, and has some holes in the side. This is to accomodate the Cohline banjo fitting and short piece of hose that feeds the MFI pump oil supply. In any event, why use that switch? It probably turns on really low, like 10 PSI. There's an adjustable switch PEL-SM5100 that can be set to 14-25 PSI. Grady claims there's a switch with a 917 part number that has a range of 5-60 PSI. Having it set to come on at hot idle is probably OK, you want as much warning as you can for a race engine. Or check out the switch that Smart Racing sells. http://www.smartracingproducts.com/pdfdocs/961100_oilpressureswitch.pdf Are you going to plumb a pressure gauge at the cam line end like the later cars, with a block connector or one of those banjo bolts from a 914's brakes?
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'66 911 #304065 Irischgruen ‘96 993 Carrera 2 Polarsilber '81 R65 Ex-'71 911 PCA C-Stock Club Racer #806 (Sold 5/15/13) Ex-'88 Carrera (Sold 3/29/02) Ex-'91 Carrera 2 Cabriolet (Sold 8/20/04) Ex-'89 944 Turbo S (Sold 8/21/20) Last edited by 304065; 10-29-2007 at 07:18 AM.. |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: CT
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John
Here's you part. I can provide a new one or pull one from one of my cases. PM me with your email and we'll work something out. ![]() ![]()
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Tom Butler 1973 RSR Clone 1970 911E 914-6 GT Recreation in Process |
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