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I'm right at the point of bleeding and installing by tensioners tomorrow. I guess I should look for some spacer material.
How many here have done the tensioner safety collars? |
I went to Lowes last nite and bought the bronze bushing/collars and as Ed posted earlier the Jerry Woods collar method...now you know where to get the bushing and the procedure to do it. Please keep us updated when you do it. I'll post a pic of the part.
Bob |
carrera tensioner failure
here is the bushing/tube you'll need.
Good luck! Bob http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1195612224.jpg |
No. 5 intake mystery solved!
News! munchovie performs clinical surgery, extracts turbo engine, intake plenum complete with attached injector housings, injector lines and CIS spider in one piece ( lazy man's way )...
I am going to post this pic and let the readers guess what was causing no. 5 to have zero compression. :D ( I will get to the left bank tensioner mystery in a bit.... ) http://930turbos.com/images/930droppedintakeseat.jpg |
Is that the valve seat??:eek::eek:
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I just hope the piston did not get banged up! munchovie |
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munchovie. |
Sorry to hear of the problem with the valve seat. Hope the damage is minimal and the repair is relatively inexpensive.
My out of turn comment was related to an earlier post that told you the cams turned clockwise. It has obviously been edited or deleted. (cut and run) The comment was not intended to put down, offend, or in any other way bring harm to those who may have misinterpreted my intentions. We must always strive to be PC.:cool: |
I've got a question on adding the safety collars to the P-tensioners......I'm looking at mine, and cannot see how I can get the circlip on the plunger/exposed end of the tensioner out to remove the piston. Do you take the piston, spring, check valve out by removing the snap ring on the other end of the tensioner? Then, once everything is out, I'd assume getting the circlip out is pretty easy?
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Ed, I got that far.....I bled the oil out as you mention, but it still seemed pretty inaccessible with the piston in situ, so I started looking at the other end. I'll take another look at it tomorrow.
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If you can see the c-clip while you have everything compressed you may need to take a pick or small screwdriver and rotate the clip so one end is just past the slot at the end of the tensioner body. Now push the clip toward the center through the slot and take the pick or another small screwdriver and work the clip out of its slot. Hope that helps. May also help to mount the tensioner on one end of the vise with the slot facing out.
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Thanks Ed, that's exactly what I ended up doing this morning. Part of my problem was not being able to even see the clip. But, I got it rotated and exposed, then it popped right out. Here's my update:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/378997-introducing-my-new-longblock.html#post3605242 |
Anyone got a failed pressure fed tensioner they will give me? I need to obtain the two springs (one per check valve) to replace the ones in a tensioner of mine that failed.
Failure #1 happened when the cap over the top check valve popped out. I recovered the ball bearing and cap from the sump, but the spring was mushed. I have figured out how to reinstall the cap so it won't come out (grind a relief in the hole it fits in so the cap's edges will catch). Failure #2 occured when I was learning how to remove the bottom plug (held in with circlip). I didn't realize there was another check valve down there, and damaged its spring. Or does someone know where to get these tiny compression springs in the proper rate? Walt Fricke |
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