Originally Posted by john_cramer (Post 3703525)

Bob,

Some suggest that tightening the perimeter nuts first helps prevent oil leaks. I believe that tightening the through-bolts first is critical to establishing the bearing clearances, and the fact that the case perimeter and the main bearing webs are all in the same plane means that the sealant gets squeezed out of the perimeter anyway when you tighten them down.

I totally agree. That's what i have seen to, during a test assembley without the no. eight bearing.
For your magnesium engine, aluminum washers and M8 self-locking nuts (DIN 985) would have been standard. Be careful, there is a particular chemical composition of the washers that is required, imitations do not have the same properties and will crush and deform. Be sure to use only Porsche original parts.

I use these ones as M6 & M8 from a porsche dealer. When I saw pelicans price I was scared. 10bugs 100 piecehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1200413995.jpg

After you clean the oil pump, you need to torque the housing bolts. Since Porsche does not specify a torque, I used the generic torque for an M6 stud, 11NM (8.1 ft/lb). This is not very much torque at all. I also used red loctite to keep the nuts from wandering, probably not necessary.

Good ID, I will keep the gearpair arangement by marking the shaft.
Rod bolts. The factory changed the torque method later in 911 production to the "angle" method. In this method, the fastener is tightened beyond the yield point-- the advantage is you get a relatively constant clamping force independent of the friction of the nut and bolt. Of course the disadvantage is the bolts cannot be reused. For the VERBUS bolts I would use the original torque method as outlined in the period workshop manual-- I don't know whether this method is appropriate to use with the earlier rod bolts, only the later ones. I used aftermarket (ARP) bolts so the stretch method of establishing preload was used, which is a superior method to torque or angle.

Only experience will tell whether your case saver installation will hold. Good luck! Thanks I will do some torque tests in advance.
Chromium plating of headstuds? I have never heard of this process. Chromium plating is usually used for appearance purposes or occasionally as a wear surface for cylinder bores. If anticorrosion resistance is what you desire, I would have the headstuds plated with Zinc. Observe post-plating heat treatment as well to prevent hydrogen embrittlement due to the acids used in the plating process. My headstuds (steel) are black oxide. Dilavar is a conductive metal so it should electroplate but I cannot predict the effect on its mechanical properties, you are a test pilot! I personally would not take any risks with these critical components because of the difficulty of replacing them in the event of a failure and the comparatively limited reward offered by improving their properties.

I will use yellow chrome plating as a rust protection. This is used for a lot of different types of rods. Should work.
Did you remove the circlips for the intermediate shaft gears? I would heat the body of the gear to 150C and use the gear puller to remove it. Wear gloves and do not burn yourself. I sent my intermediate shaft to a machine shop with a press to have the gears removed and installed.

Me to. I brought the to a guy who has a press as well and he will take the clips off. He will press them out cold.
The "0" is stamped on the side of the aluminum gear, below the teeth.
I saw that and on the housing as well. But could find a mark on the crankshaft.

Good luck! I hope this answers your questions.

Originally Posted by euro911sc (Post 4060541)

henry, Can I Sell That? ;)

-michael