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1972_911T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Yorkshire UK
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Piston Squirters

Just been cleaning out my squirters ready for re-assembling my bottom end hopefully this weekend. They all cleaned out easily with no blockages which is good, in the rebuild book it says as long as they are clean with a even spray all is well but should there be some resistance? I seem to remember something about them not opening untill a certain amount of pressure is applied? Most of mine squirt with very little pressure being applied should I be concerned?

Steve

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1972 911t RS Styled
G50 conversion underway
1972t Resto Project - http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16695
Old 11-29-2007, 05:40 AM
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I would ensure that the piston squirters are closed at low pressures. When I checked them on my 80SC 3.0 I had one that was stuck open and one that was stuck closed I replaced them both. When checking the squirters lower your air compressor to about 15-20 psig and you should not get flow. Increase the pressure to like 50psig and you should get flow, I think they open around 35-40 psig.
Old 11-29-2007, 07:31 AM
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Just removed one of my squirters, first I drilled away the end peice to allow the spring and ball out. The ball and spring fell out easily and there was no sign or any dirt preventing it from closing. Can these things wear out naturally? as if I reinsert the ball and spring into the body of the squirter and put pressure on the spring and blow through the valve again its easy to blow past as if the ball isnt fully seating and forming a proper seal. I can get the ball to seal but not with the spring pressure I have to use a thin metal rod to press the ball against its seat with some force to get it to seal as if the seat itself is worn or maybe the spring has lost some of its strength?

Anyway 6 new squirters are on order as only one has any resistance while the others fluid literally dribbles out by gravity if I fill the oil gallery.

Steve
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1972 911t RS Styled
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Old 11-30-2007, 02:30 AM
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If you look at the ball under a microscope, you will probably see a tiny line on the ball.
This is the previous seating line.
If that line does not "line up" with the seat after it has been cleaned, there will be a tiny gap and the oil will leak past.
We see this in Harley oil pump check valves all the time.
The ball gets a visible indentation on it requiring the grinding of the seat and the replacement of the ball.
Just buy new squirters....cheaper and more cost effective than trying to repair the old ones.
Bob
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Old 11-30-2007, 08:27 AM
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Has anyone got any tips on fitting these things? factory manual says to locktite them in personnaly I dont like that idea. Also they seem quite soft what about getting them back in the holes as they are quite a tight fit?

Sould I re-pean in the same place as from factory or in a new area?

Steve
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Old 11-30-2007, 12:30 PM
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You should be able to push the piston squirter in by hand. I used loctite and also peened the hole.
Old 11-30-2007, 01:04 PM
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Hi matthew when you did yours how did you apply the loctite? Im thinking it would be best to thinly apply to the body of the squirter then insert it to minimise the risk of getting the loctite behind the squirter.

Steve
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Old 12-01-2007, 11:20 PM
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thats what I did, applied loctite to the body of the squirter and then pushed it in the bore. I also do not like the idea of getting loctite behind the squirter even though it should not harden. Just be careful when you pean the opening, make sure that you do not create a burr that could fall off. I re-peaned the factory spots with a small round punch. I think any deformation of the opening will prevent the squirter from falling out.
Old 12-02-2007, 02:58 PM
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Hawgryder:

Where did you get your piston squirters? I need 6 new ones.

Thanks
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Old 12-05-2007, 05:12 AM
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