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Oil for break-in on rebuilt 3.2??
I've heard pros and cons for synthetic and non-synthetic, along with numerous brands. Very confusing...
Any suggestions? Thanks. |
I always recommend using a non-synthetic oil for break in. There are numerous conventional oils marketed specifically for break-in with additional Zn and P, with signifantly less detergents or none at all. I usually use the Brad Penn Break-in 30WT for the first 200 mi then switch over to their 20w50. If dynoing the engine, a few good pulls and cam break-in on the 30WT break-in oil is more than sufficient. I don't recommend using a synthetic until at least 1,000 mi, if not more, on a rebuild. But that's just me.
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+1 on brad-penn
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never heard of brad penn oil.
why is it different or better than other oils? |
Here, you can catch up on our current discussion about oils, if you missed the thread:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/367300-ultimate-motor-oil-thread-why-we-hate-cj4-sm-oils.html http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html |
Brad Penn oil
Thanks Charles... pick up a few cases. I was told that a good break-in oil for the 3.2's is the good 'ol Rotella T. Is that not the case any more?
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And, why use the straight 30W for break-in, rather than the multi-viscosity stuff?
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Oil for break-in on rebuilt 3.2??
I'm not actually sure... I'll leave it to the experts on here.
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I'm no expert, but a key in break-in is to get a good film between the wearing components, and the lighter 30W may accomplish this better, as well as washing away the particles. The BP break-in oil is chock full of vitamins that are good for new motors, and not full of detergents which you don't need.
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