Oil for break-in on rebuilt 3.2??

ENTHUZD · 12-07-2007, 02:54 PM

I've heard pros and cons for synthetic and non-synthetic, along with numerous brands. Very confusing...

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

cnavarro · 12-07-2007, 03:52 PM

I always recommend using a non-synthetic oil for break in. There are numerous conventional oils marketed specifically for break-in with additional Zn and P, with signifantly less detergents or none at all. I usually use the Brad Penn Break-in 30WT for the first 200 mi then switch over to their 20w50. If dynoing the engine, a few good pulls and cam break-in on the 30WT break-in oil is more than sufficient. I don't recommend using a synthetic until at least 1,000 mi, if not more, on a rebuild. But that's just me.

AngM018 · 12-07-2007, 08:13 PM

+1 on brad-penn

paulgtr · paulgtr's Garage

never heard of brad penn oil.
why is it different or better than other oils?

cnavarro · 12-09-2007, 04:54 AM

Here, you can catch up on our current discussion about oils, if you missed the thread:

Ultimate Motor Oil Thread or Why we hate CJ4/SM oils

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

ENTHUZD · 12-17-2007, 02:39 PM

Thanks Charles... pick up a few cases. I was told that a good break-in oil for the 3.2's is the good 'ol Rotella T. Is that not the case any more?

preston_brown · preston_brown's Garage

And, why use the straight 30W for break-in, rather than the multi-viscosity stuff?

ENTHUZD · 12-17-2007, 03:15 PM

I'm not actually sure... I'll leave it to the experts on here.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

I'm no expert, but a key in break-in is to get a good film between the wearing components, and the lighter 30W may accomplish this better, as well as washing away the particles. The BP break-in oil is chock full of vitamins that are good for new motors, and not full of detergents which you don't need.