Intermediate Shaft and Crank Pulley outer seal

[x98boardwell]

I have noticed that either my #8 Nose bearing (hopefully the outer one) and my intermediate shaft cover seal have been leaking. I cannot determine which one is leaking until I do a partial engine drop. I realize that it could be the o-ring inside the #8 bearing but since i have to split the case to change that this is what I will try first.

I have searched all over to find this information but have not come up with specific directions (pics would be nice) of how to access that area.

This is what I know so far with questions:

- Remove muffler, turbo support bracket to gain access from underneath the car (I'm guessing for the intermediate shaft part of the job.

- Remove rear motor mount bolts and 4 bolts on cross beam... after supporting motor with padded jack-stand and jack of course.

- Do I need to remove the shift linkage or will the motor not need to drop that far for access?

- How do I (or can I leave this in?) remove the tin that is around the back of the motor?

- Should I lightly loosen the transmission mounts to help with pivoting the motor?

- Once the tin has been removed I gain access to the bolts for the cover that attached the crossbeam and remove that.

Now this is where I become confused... how do I access the crank pulley.. from the top I would guess. What am I actually gaining by lowering the motor, or am I just supporting it, not lowering it that much at all.

Lastly,my car is an 87 930 but the motor is almost identical other than turbo, intake, etc.

Thank you for your help in advance

Bryan
(Also posted this on 911 technical forum)

[Eagledriver]

You don't need to drop the engine at all. Just remove the stuff in the way of the pully as you describe. Put the car in a high gear and have someone step on the brakes while you loosen the pully nut.

-Andy

[KTL]

Agreed with Andy. Once you get the muffler and engine crossbar + console out of the way, you'll have a clear place to get at the pulley from underneath the car.

The pulley bolt is typically rather hard to get off. The post-SC cars have a serrated head bolt which really bites hard. If you've got an impact wrench, don't be afraid to use it.

No need to lower the engine whatsover, other than the tiny amount needed to get the crossbar removed. Put a couple padded jackstands under the heat exchangers or the beefy part of the engine case. Don't use the jack as your only support!

[x98boardwell]

Guys, Thanks for the help on this one. Two questions,

1) Using a single Jack Stand with a towel between the two is not enough? Should I use a jack near the front of the motor and a jack stand in the middle by the drain plug? (I have headers so no luck with supporting there.

2) The metal tin that is surrounding the bracket, does it come out in pieces and from the top just by loosening the little bolt/nut combo's?

3) My calipers are away being rebuilt and powder coated. Is it Ok to put car in 1st gear and do it that way... or do I have to have someone on the brakes?

Thanks for the help, very much appreciated!

Bryan

[KTL]

Put the car in a high gear. It's harder for the engine to turn the transmission, but you still need the brakes. There is a counterholding tool that fits the pulley. Maybe someone in your area has it? I have one but i'm in IL..............

The sheetmetal comes out easy as long as the bolts aren't too rusty. Spray with a good penetrating lube just to be sure. NOT WD-40. It's easier to push the tin out the bottom since there's a rubber surround that seals the tin around the top. Sometimes this surround is poorly installed, so it may not be much of an obstruction for you.

One jack stand is fine since the trans mounts will keep the engine from listing to one side too much.

[x98boardwell]

Thanks for the quick reply.

1) No rust in CA, so the bolts look good.
2) Looks like I will be looking for the tool to hold the pulley, otherwise I am on hold for a couple of weeks. I will search my area for friends with the tool.

Anyone in Fresno, CA have this tool that I can borrow?

Thanks,
Bryan

[x98boardwell]

Gee Wiz,

This has turned into be quite a fiasco. I didn't realize that the tin surrounding the front of the motor was all one piece. It wraps around both pipes coming from the Turbo to the IC & CIS.

I would have to remove the turbo (which I just finished installing) and drain the oil supply line again. Also, those little nut/bolt combos that hold my tin down are almost impossible to reach in some areas which I was able to get along with having to rotate the distributor to access one of them.

Another issue (which I did not know I needed to touch) is the fan pulley which is how I loosen/remove the belt from the crank pulley.

All of these things combined persuaded me to put everything back together and let the professionals deal with it. I know I am capable, but realized that this was more work than I anticipated.

Does anyone know how much this job may cost (labor) to change out the Intermediate shaft bearing and the crank front seal? I will be getting quotes soon.

Thanks again for all of your help on this issue.
Bryan