this is the engine thermostat? or for the front cooler? I just tossed one in some boiling water, it started to open at around 185 and fully open at 200 The upper slot (top of unit) will be open a bit, the lower slot is the one that opens when heat is applied, try some boiling water and see if it opens? if its the one on the engine I have xtra ones if you need one.

Craig

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1/100_8179.jpg

Craig,
It is the engine thermostat like the one you have. Today's experiment is one of the reasons that I wanted to do my own rebuild. I have a much better idea of how my oiling system works today. As for my thermostat, it seems to be working fine. I don't have a candy thermometer (that's what my grandmother called it, anyways) that reads temps that high. However, I think the thermostat is functioning fine. Here are some pics. The view is of the side of the thermostat that is normally closed at ambient temperature. The first pic is right about the time the water starts to get a little bubbly around the edges.....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241556198.jpg

and now here it is at a rolling boil.....


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241556227.jpg

and, as it comes out of the water.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241556259.jpg

Can I assume that it doesn't open any further than this? It has about the same sized opening that the opposite side has when it's cold....

So now it's off to the hardware store to pick up a few nylock nuts to secure this, and the crankcase breather top. Thanks Craig!!!

Pistons/Cylinders are on....
 

Found some time this afternoon. After arguing with myself back and forth over my deck height dilemma, I decided to go with the .50 base gaskets. With rings on the pistons and the cylinders snugged up, I have a deck height of around 1.10mm--probably a bit conservative, but I just felt better about it. After assessing my configuration, Steve at Rennsport agreed (thanks for the advice, Steve!)SmileWavy So here's where my next most likely screwup is.... I read the cylinder chapter in Wayne's book, and it didn't mention anything about Curil-T on the shims. So, in my infinite wisdom, I smeared a thin coat on the base gaskets and installed the piston/cylinder assemblies. I don't know what all the guff about circlips is--I had no issues either removing or installing mine, with none of them flying about the garage. Well, I start reading the camshaft/head chapter, and what does Wayne start talking about? ...sealing your base gaskets as you're ready for your final bolt up of the heads/camshaft housings. My cylinders are fairly snug against the case, but nowhere near as snug as they'll be with the heads torqued down. I'm REALLY not in the mood to undo the pistons from the rods to get the base gaskets off and clean them. Am I doomed to an oil leak from this? If so, maybe I can slide the cylinders forward enough to try to clean the Curil-T from the base gaskets, and then put more on when I'm ready to bolt the heads up? As always, your thoughts are most welcome! Here are pics of the pistons and cylinders installed.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241644347.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241644364.jpg

OK guys, now I'm really stumped.... I have had some fluctuations in my deck height measurements (which I now take compulsively several times a day...) I thought my variations were related to my ability to use the digital caliper I have effectively. So, I say to myself, just break down and try the solder-crush method so you can get a definitive answer. Off I go to home depot for acid-core solder. I snipped a couple of pieces, measured them at appx 1.55mm before installation, and curil-t'ed them to the pistons parallel to the wrist pin as Wayne shows in the book. I installed the sealing ring in the top of the cylinder, and installed the head and torqued it to spec. I rotated the piston across TDC--didn't feel a thing. Rotated it back past TDC. I unbolted the head and removed the solder pieces. They were untouched! Still measured 1.55mm as they had when I put them in! Now I'm really a mess... So, either my deck height measurement is way off, or something else is up. What gives???

Sincerely,

Frustrated in Austin......

I would try a 0.25 mm base copper gasket and no CurilT on it to see what the solder measures like that. Or you could also try thicker solder to get it to crush and know what your deck height is right now. You may be just over 1.55 mm.

Moving onward!!
 

Man!!! This is like having a baby! I spent about four hours in the shop tonight after a week of worrying about deck height. Jamie Novak was kind enough to CC my heads and pistons, and with .50mm base gaskets, my compression was just a stitch under 8.5 to 1. With the chamfered heads, I decided to go with no shims....running a .62mm deck height. Jamie loaned me a valve spring compressor, and I installed a head with the valve springs removed to check valve clearance. 6mm was the narrowest valve clearance from -30 deg through TDC to +30 deg measuring every 10 degrees. Gotta love those valve pockets in the RS pistons!! No valve clearance issues to worry about. It should bump my compression to about 8.8:1. I removed all of the base gaskets, and set to work!! I got the left side of the engine completely assembled.....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242287150.jpg

I installed the camshaft as Wayne says to do, and it spins like butter!! No hangups.

OK, so I'm jazzed to get the right side done.....until......I can't find three of the springy washers and two of the cam tower nutz required to do the install. Can I just sub a couple of standard M8's with washers somewhere, or do I need to locate some genuine replacements???

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242287303.jpg

Well, I guess I'm stuck until I hear from one of you engine magicians.... I went ahead and cleaned everything up and set the heads on the right bank of cylinders. Once I get the answer to my nut/washer question, everything will be ready to bolt up on the right side (after more cam tower cleaning). FWIW, I used Threebond 1194 for the cam/head sealing surface. We'll see if she leaks!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242287445.jpg

It's camshaft timing time!!!
 

Got to spend some more time in the garage tonight. It's amazing how fast things start moving after the case is back together. I installed the chain boxes tonight, and installed the camshafts to check the sprocket alignment. Looks like the last guy who rebuilt this motor had it right on. Here's a pic of the left chain box going on.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242807102.jpg

And with both chain boxes on, and the camshafts installed and properly shimmed...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242807320.jpg

Now I'm waiting for John D. (Camgrinder) to get back to me on the intake valve overlap at TDC that he recommends for the E camshafts in my configuration. Wayne's book gives two different values--one for early E's and one for later E's. My guess is around 2.9. I'm excited....I can see the end approaching. More later.

In case you don't see the PM, set the cams at 3.0 mm. SmileWavy

It was the best of times....
 

Well fellas,
It was the best of times..... It was the worst of times. Tonight was supposed to be the turning point in my rebuild, and it was, but not exactly how I expected. I was prepared to time my camshafts tonight. I needed to snug up my crank pulley so that my Z1 mark was dead on. So, I grab the torque wrench and start to crank it down. It tightens up snug, and then I start feeling more travel in the wrench than I should. I think, well...maybe the springy washer is really stiff and I am compressing it still. Of course not...stripped bolt! :mad: At this point, I'm really sick at my stomach. I envision that the threads in the end of the crankshaft have turned loose--that would be worse than bad, I assume. I unbolt it, and find this.....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242896041.jpg
Well, thank God the threads in the end of the crank still look good. I can't imagine why the threads on that high-grade bolt would shear off like that!! It looks like I can probably go to my local bolt dealer, and obtain a replacement, right?:confused: Anyway, there are enough threads left to snug it up where it doesn't have any slop left in it (but certainly not enough to use permanently). Well, at least I can have a go at cam timing, and replace the bolt later--I think.

I install the rocker for #1 without issue. The RSR seals on the rocker shafts are super-slick... they went on easy as pie. I tried the Jerry Woods trick of installing them dry, and then putting a drop of oil in the oiling hole after installation. Got the valve adjusted (I used the "backside" method for the first time, and like it).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242896378.jpg

OK, so I have the dial set up, and I need to install the idler arm. I pull them out of the plastic bag where I have them stored from the teardown, and double-check them against the book. OH SCHITT! I have early-style idler arms!! I assumed that I had the carrera idler arms because the previous owner had done the carrera pressure-fed tensioner upgrade. These are the early style, right??

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242896526.jpg

Well, to hell with it! I'm timing my cams tonight come hell or high water. Install the idler arms and C-clamp them down tight. The cam timing itself was not that big of a deal. John Dougherty said to shoot for 3mm. I hit 3mm right on the dot for the left, and 2.97 for the right. From what I've read, I can't expect much more.

I was a bit hazy on the timing of the cylinders in relation to left vs. right. I started timing the right cam as the left intake valve was just beginning to open. From my 4 or 5 readings of the chapter, this should be right, right? If not, I guess my valve to piston clearance check will identify an error? With both cams installed and timed, the orientation dots (or keyways) should both be facing up, correct?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242896802.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242896833.jpg

Given that the idler arms need replacing (sound advice, I guess). I guess I'll start trolling the classifieds and ebay for a set.... Until then, I zip tied the chains around the sprockets, so that I don't lose my timing settings. I'll re-check them when I get the new idler arms installed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242897744.jpg

Other big bummers for tonight 1) I purchased some valve adjusting screws from a fella about 8 months ago. I opened the package tonight, and there were only eight. I coulda sworn it was a full set. Probably my error, not his. I found two that were serviceable from the teardown, but will need two more to complete the install. 2) When installing the idler arms, I found a slight bit of galling on the bottom of the shafts. Nothing too serious I hope, but not the buttery smooth feel I'm used to with P-car parts. Thoughts???

I did, however, receive the B&B exhaust system I purchased off fleabay that I intend to adapt to my car. Sure looks nice--I hope I can make it work. He was running it on a 2.7RS, and said he was happy with it. We'll see.... I'll have to cut the heater boxes off as they won't fit the 914. I guess I could always cut off the upswept section of tubing, and use a squirrel cage fan in the trunk to force air through the boxes into the cabin... I also hope I don't have interference issues with my rear control arms and the width of the headers. I'll try to fit them up before I hack up the heat exchangers in case I need to sell the system for something else....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242897226.jpg

I guess the rebuild is on hold for awhile, until I can source the parts to continue... Onward through the fog!!! SmileWavy

--Jay

Jay,

Remarkably informative and helpful post! Thanks for all the effort on this. Looks as though you are closing in!!

As far as the bolt goes, I wouldnt worry to much about it. Just get a suitable replacement. Over the years, threads can get stressed. Maybe put a bit of anti seize on the next one(if thats not a problem) That bolt looks gold in the picture. Is it steel?

David

What a friggin comedy of errors!!!! Skip back a few pages to my post about the rounded flywheel bolt tool. This will bring you up to date:

I was torquing flywheel bolts when I jumped from 90 ft/lbs to 110 ft/lbs. Tool rounded off. I'm pissed. Red loctite should make them a beeotch to remove-right? Jamie N. suggest heating them with a torch to soften the loctite. He is gracious enough to grind the tip off my tool to square it up again. I go to H.D. and purchase a propane torch......

Enter today.... I've just finished mowing the lawn. Putting the mower away. I think to myself.... I wonder if those bolts would just break loose? So, I grab the breaker bar, and the freshly ground tool. Pop it in (making sure it's fully seated), and with just a little persuasion on the breaker bar, they start backing out! Woo Hoo! I hate applying heat for some reason. Anyway, I back the bolts out, and clean them up with a wire wheel. What the heck, I think... let's just go ahead and get this behind us. I grab the red loctite ( I'm envisioning a skit featuring Will Farrell and Christopher Walken.... "MORE LOCTITE!!!!") and start the torquing process again. I'm doing 20 ft/lb increments, and make it smoothly through 90 ft/lbs. Almost home, I think. Last step up to 110... playing in the back of my mind is "this is where it all went wrong last time." I start to lean on the torque wrench, and ....... AAAAAAAARGH, the tool rounds off again! In a panic, I start looking around.... no cutoff wheel..... no bench grinder...... HACKSAW!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242935231.jpg

Feverishly, I hack off the damaged end of the tool, knowing that the loctite is setting up again.... grab a file... make it square.... back to the torque wrench.... it rounds off again. I'm livid. (this is what PI$$ED OFF looks like)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242935328.jpg

After kicking, cussing, and sitting for a minute, it dawns on me... The steel in the tool I'm using is not hard enough to make the jump from 90 to 110. It handles 90 just fine, but 110 makes it round off like butter. I wonder if God is telling me that my flywheel bolts are really happy at 90 ft/lbs? I guess I'll ponder this for awhile.

Nutz in Austin.....

:D:D:D OMG, I'm dying laughing here. Misery loves company - we all need a mirror in our garages as we're all gonna see that look someday!

How far can you throw that wrench?:mad:

Have you calibrated the torque wrench lately? I had an issue with a name brand torque wrench lately. I took it to the tool truck and the guy tells me 60 lbs on the wrench is really 85 lbs on the fastener. Last time I had it calibrated was 2007, and maybe used it a dozen times.

Haven't found a place to REALLY have it calibrated. I have two, and took them both to my local machine shop. Machinist compared mine to the one he was using, and they all appeared to be similar. Not exactly scientific, but ballpark I guess. Do the tool-truck guys normally have a way to test them? I can probably flag down the Snapon or Matco guy. I'd be SICK if it was really off as I've built the entire engine with it. I believe it has to do with using a cheapo FLAPS 12 point bit designed for brakes. The heads of the bolts don't have much deformation.

My local Snap on guy had some way to do it. I didn't see it however.

If you would like a yellow zinc replacement bolt and can't find one locally, let me know - I keep a pretty good supply of new fasteners on hand.

Frank

Thanks Frank,

What do I need to tell the bolt guy that I need? What specs? Does it being Zinc cause the threads to fail before the steel threads in the crank (good design idea, I guess). I'll holler if I can't find one. He should be able to read the head and tell what it is, right? They're an industrial fastener shop.... I just looked at your sig, and see your local. I use a place out on Burleson Rd....

what next?
 

Well Boys,

When you can't permanently install parts, you can always amuse yourself with what the final product will look like (much cleaner, I hope!). Here's the mockup!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242970737.jpg

but for now... back to reality!!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242970854.jpg

I guess I'll try to get some sleep tonight...... After surfing the classifieds for awhile!

Have a look at this thread ,re the camchain idlers-Supertech exchange items look good ,if Henry will do them.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/415242-carrera-vs-turbo-chain-tensioners.html

Too much time on my hands...
 

Well, I'm patiently awaiting the arrival of my late-style idler arms, I'm having a hard time finding stuff to do....:rolleyes: Well, those Webers do look a bit crusty--I don't guess I'll just bolt 'em up and run 'em :D Now is as good a time as any. After thinking for awhile about sending them out ( I don't really an extra grand lying about) it's time to tear them down. I've done Dellorto 40's before when the car had a 1.8/4 in it, and it went pretty well. If I prove to myself that I'm in over my head, I can always box them up and get them done. Time to tear 'em down!

Here they are in raw form.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243318906.jpg

and now coming apart..... Man! how can they accumulate that much crap in the float bowls?? Halfway into the teardown, I sheared off the bowl drain plugs. Panicked, I run to the computer and search, search, search. Whew!! They're designed to do that. I used an easy-out for the shaft of the plug--slick as butter.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243319083.jpg

After disassembly, they don't look as bad as they originally did, but still filthy. Against advice in the books, I removed the throttle plates (not the shafts, however). The DPO had probably already done so anyway--all of the throttle plate screws were loose. All in all, the bores look good, and my shafts don't have any detectable play. However, I'm thinking of sending them off to be checked by someone more knowledgeable than myself. What feels like no slop to me, might be miles of slop to a pro. Here is one completely torn down.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243319243.jpg

The Berryman carb cleaner may stink like hell, but it sure works well!!! Here are those dirty float bowls after only a couple hours in the soup.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243319552.jpg


Now I need to find the proper vents, jets, etc.

The dizzy has also gone it's merry way to be rebuilt/recurved.... Can't wait to get it back. I'm getting closer.......