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Addicted to Racing
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torque for arp rod bolts
Hi,
I have arp rod bolts for my 79 930. I have no idea what the torquing instructions are. Can someone help me. Thanks Ed |
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Torqueing is not the preferred method, measuring bolt stretch is. Do a search, there are many threads on the subject. Also, ARP has full specs on their products on their website. Both torque and stretch, but again, research will show you that torque is an inexact measurement at best, you're really after bolt stretch for proper installation and longevity of your rod bearings.
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Ed Hughes 2015 981 Cayman GTS 6 speed,Racing Yellow Past:1984 911 Targa (Ruby), 1995 993C2 (Sapphire), 1991 928S4 |
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+1 Ed. (the Ed who said, "get a stretch gage."
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Ed (baus) I like stretch as well, but I also use a torque wrench to get it done. IF the bolt has problems (And I've seen 3-4 that have) you'll get the appropriate stretch without getting proper torque levels.
Use a stretch guage, but tighten the bolt with a torque wrench to ensure you get a certain minimum torque on it. I usually set the wrench with 10% less than their suggested torque value. Then I go for the recommended stretch, or suggested torque, whichever is greater.
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Chris ---------------------------------------------- 1996 993 RS Replica 2023 KTM 890 Adventure R 1971 Norton 750 Commando Alcon Brake Kits |
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Quote:
If the stretch is higher than the torque then it should be quite safe. I don't think you should mix torque and stretch as it just isn't christian. The idea of stretch gauges is to remove the uncertainty caused by uneven lubrication from the tightening procedure. If you look at 'dry' torque figures you can reduce torque by around 20% using a simple oil lube and I believe by 50% by using ARP's new thread lube. I would be interested to know the bolt problem that reduces torque but increases stretch. The only thing that I can think of is a significantly yielded bolt which is already exhibiting non-uniform elongation. This would be typical behaviour for a 'stretch' bolt that has already been used beyond its maximum recommended length. I |
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UFLYICU
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You will find that the ARP's will require more than the 35 lbs of torque called for to achieve the .0117 - .012" of stretch. You should, however, perform the process of torquing to 35, back off, again to 35, back off, and again to 35. Check the length, and add torque if necessary. Also, be sure to use the lube that came with the bolts. A simple outside micrometer works just fine.
edit: The values I quoted are for my '87, which has 9mm rod bolts. Your '79 has 10mm bolts, so the values may differ, but the process should be the same.
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I would tend to agree that new bolts will need higher torque and it has been posted in earlier threads that if you use torque as a measurement then you will need to tighten several times to 'burnish' the threads and reduce stiction.
If you use stretch you don't really have to carry out this procedure. |
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when i installed raceware rod bolts porsche factory torque numbers and raceware numbers weren't even close.
A call to raceware received "Yep, we know that our info doesn't come close to the stretch numbers. Tighten them till they stretch to specs."
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Quote:
The 79 Turbo and '87 Carrera both use the same 9mm rod bolts. -Chris
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Addicted to Racing
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I have completed this task and can also agree with the fact that the 35 ft lbs does not meet the required stretch. I was only getting about .007 to .009 at 35.
Thanks Ed |
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Ed:
. . . sent you a P.M. thanks, Hz
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Ed: Nobody has mentioned that the rods need to be reconditioned with the ARP bolts installed to maintain roundness on the big end. I have had occasion over the years to install rods with ARP bolts when the case was assembled and it is very hard to use a stretch gauge under those circumstances and I have torqued each individual rod bolt to attain the correct stretch on the bench, then installed the rod on the crank. Using this method I have found the median torque to be over 55lbs to attain the correct stretch. ( no matter how many cycles the nut-bolt have been through) I have always unseated the big end cap of the rod after being reconditioned, re-stretched the bolts and rechecked the big end with a dial bore gauge. Even with a correctly reconditioned rod you will get .0001 to .0002 out of round due to the way the cap aligns on the bolt. I believe the factory spec is .0005.
aws |
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Ed: Nobody has mentioned that the rods need to be reconditioned with the ARP bolts installed to maintain roundness on the big end. I have had occasion over the years to install rods with ARP bolts when the case was assembled and it is very hard to use a stretch gauge under those circumstances and I have torqued each individual rod bolt to attain the correct stretch on the bench, then installed the rod on the crank. Using this method I have found the median torque to be over 55lbs to attain the correct stretch. ( no matter how many cycles the nut-bolt have been through) I have always unseated the big end cap of the rod after being reconditioned, re-stretched the bolts and rechecked the big end with a dial bore gauge. Even with a correctly reconditioned rod you will get .0001 to .0002 out of round due to the way the cap aligns on the bolt. I believe the factory spec is .0005.
aws |
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Quote:
above is news to me...... thx and my Raceware rod bolts had to be torqued way over factory to attain mfg stretch. I even called Raceware and asked them about it in mid session. He said that's routine and the 2.7 bolts are more of an issue than the smaller diameter 3.2 bolts.
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You think you are going to pull a cap out of round using the ARP bolts???? Really?
Cheers
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