Assembling 1966 901/05 Engine: Phase III- Completing Long Block

[304065]

Apologies for the image quality, the Nikon was not at hand. Got the rest of the pistons on the rods and the cylinders fitted. By the final cylinder I had the hang of getting the wire locks installed in about 30 seconds. I credit John Walker with the most succinct description of the proper technique for doing this. The locks are JE 0.063" (1.6mm) which is a big diameter, they better stay put. I did perform the engine tin update, with no external oil cooling this engine needs all the help it can get. It is invisible from below. On went the heads. I noticed that the head gaskets, as has been written here before, do not add any deck height to the assembly, as they fit below the level of the top of the cylinder liner. Perforation to the cylinder per FWM. I wonder why they were used? Maybe that's why the factory changed the head sealing surface in 1970. The heads were not torqued at this point per the manual. I didn't have any Castrol 09449 Optimoly HT antiseize paste, so I used Lubro Moly LM508 copper anti-seize paste (same stuff I used on exhaust studs). It turns out that Optimoly HT is in fact a high-temperature copper-based antiseize, so I consider this an acceptable substitute. I assume this is to prevent corrosion of the head stud nuts to the studs to faciliate later disassembly, and also to lubricate the threads for a more predictable preload of the studs. Next step are the cam boxes, install cams, install sprockets, rockers, time cams.

[ErVikingo]

Its so pretty I hope you never put oil in it Good job......

[304065]

Thanks Juan!

The last case of SWEPCO 306 I bought for the race car was purple in color! Wonder why they do that.

I still have to get the manifolds plated, order some carb spacers, parkerize the fan strap and do something about the fan, I want to plate the center and rivet it back to the blades.

[304065]

How much did you get for the key fob? $100?