Cleaning Crankshaft and Case - 3.6L

[Porshaah]

Gentlemen

I know I seen it described here before but do you think I can find it now that I'm looking for it specifically - No! Anyways until Wayne's book arrives which I'm hoping it will be described there. How does one clean the crankshaft and the case after a spun big end bearing? I'm not sure if I should remove the plugs in the crank or how as well as the sprayers in the crankcase. I'm hoping I will find something in the crankshaft oil passage that starved the bearing. Also after removing those crankshaft plugs and crankcase sprayers how does one replace them?

All responses welcomed
Bill
90C2

[tom1394racing]

One thing to be careful about....If you clean the crank really well, make sure you use some type of preservative on it.

It will rust if you don't.

[304065]

Don't I know THAT. I had to buy a replacement 66mm crank from a very nice gentleman in Connecticut because I cleaned my crank with surgical precision. . . then let it sit in a high-humidity garage with WD40 on it and it RUSTED!

If you clean it use clean motor oil to coat all bearing surfaces.

Bill, R&R the crank plugs is not really something for the DIYer. I would send the crank out for measurement first, then cleaning. On the case, you can check yourself to see if the squirters are obstructed by blocking the oil return tube with a small piece of tubing and introducing high-pressure solvent (wear goggles). I would probably pull the oil gallery plugs and clean the gallery with a rifle brush then replace the gallery plugs. Again, you may want to delegate this to a dedicated shop, there are many that perform this service.

[Steve@Rennsport]

Great advice from John, as usual,..

I would simply add that whenever one is rebuilding an engine, (especially after bearing failure), EVERYTHING must be cleaned out. No exceptions; no shortcuts unless you want an "encore performance".

The crankshaft plugs should be removed and the oil passages scrubbed out.

The case oil galley plugs should be removed and all passages scrubbed out. This includes the squirters, too.

The oil coolers should be sent off and ultrasonically cleaned by someone who is competent at this.

ALL of the oil lines, tank, and both thermostats should be removed, disassembled, scrubbed and the tank should be ultrasonically cleaned.

We use a liberal coat of assembly oil on the crank to prevent corrosion before reassembly. We use Torco MPZ, but there are others.

This is a tedious job for anyone, even a well equipped shop so don't shortcut this process in any way. Most good shops employ pressurized parts washing machines and make their own oil galley plugs so this is not a DIY process (IMHO) to do the job properly.

[Porshaah]

Gentlemen

Thank you for your responses. I finally found what I remember readig and it was in the shop manual regarding the removal/installation of the piston squirters. Seems like a DIY'er task - anyone have experience doing it they'd like to share? John, a little known fact that WD40 is primarily a cleaner, it has very little lubrication qualities and those that do exist tend to evaporate very quickly, hence the oxidation you experienced.

Thanks Again
Bill