3.0 SC Tear down 4-5-6 RATTLE FOUND...BEGINNING REBUILD

[relayswitcher]

Originally Posted by Bobboloo

Ouch! At least you caught this before the rod let go.

Any idea on the cause? Low oil pressure? Blocked oil gally?

Originally Posted by Flieger

Good move. Can you sell the old crank to a machine shop as a rebuild candidate?

That's what I like about you, Max. We think alike. I was thinking earlier about selling it to someone for a rebuild. OR.... keep it for another 3.0 down the line. I'll have to look into it some more to gauge the interest. I think these cranks are going to be harder and harder to find as the years go by.
Btw.. re cats. The mother cat and the 2 remaining kittens up and moved away. I don't know if I should be insulted or worried the coyotes got them. We had a pretty windy day here on Monday and it got cold at night. Momma cat, probably thinks the coyotes got the 2 I rescued. They are at some friends being tamed... as I can't because, again I'm allergic. Stay in touch.... Regards, Josh

[relayswitcher]

Originally Posted by Bobboloo

Would have loved to sell you the over-sized bearings I have but you came to the right decision.

Make sure your oil squirters work before you reassemble. You don't want to have to pull the motor again because of any debris left behind.

Also check the spray bars in the cam carriers. If there's blockage you'll have to go after it.

I always make sure the cam tower oil squirters are clear and the crank. I will check everything that has oil going through it. I spoke to Ike at Ollies Automotive Machining, now in Lake Havasu City, AZ and he said, "You would not believe the number of people who have us do the cranks and fix journal and don't bother to clean out the rest of the engine where particles from the spun rod bearing ended up. The wise thing alway keep in mind is this is the heart and spine of the whole engine and make sure all is clean and clear. Also, the oil cooler, oil pump, filters, and even the sump tank ends up with residue. So even the new oil filter should be changed within the first 50 miles or so

[relayswitcher]

What kind of solvent are you using in your parts washer. I understand that some kinds can hurt aluminum. I have always had it done by this "master mechanic" friend, I call him that because he was the #1 guy at Norton Air Force base doing the "brass's" cars. And helicopters, too. I'm thinking of getting my own washer set up here soon. I have a 2.7 and 2.2 I'm doing next. Also, how exactly do you go about cleaning the heads if you are not rebuilding them. I remove the springs, guides, and valves. I can bead blast the heads, that set up I do have, but what about the valves themselves? Carbon removal? And also I'm worried about the valve seats on the heads during bead blast and the valve mating surface... don't want to screw them up. Do I just tape off? I usually have all the heads rebuilt completely in a complete rebuild, but these don't need it, just want to clean up and put engine back together. Same with the pistons. Again this engine did not blow up and quit, I caught the noise in time before major probs. The only viewable damage found was the rod bearing and rod and of course flushing the engine of bearing residue. Appreciate any suggestions. Relayswitcher.

[Bobboloo]

Wish I had a parts washer. Unfortunently I do things by hand with various size brushes.

For general purpose cleaning I use Simple Green. It is corrosive but I just make sure I rinse thoroughly. A quick spritz with WD-40 afterward keeps the corrosion at bay. For some items I use solvents. Eastwood's "Pre" does well for me. It doesn't evaporate as quickly as acetate based solvents. Pre was designed as a paint prep degreaser. It's mainly tolulene and xylene based. Solvent gloves are a must.

As for the heads I let the machine shop do the dirty work. A build I'm working on now I'm using a set of heads that really didn't need any work. They were from a motor that was torn back down after less than a thousand miles. I still took them to the machine shop to be disassembled bead blasted, tanked, inspected, lapped and fly cut. Probably not necessary but it didn't cost much so I went for it.

[relayswitcher]

Bobby, You can buy a nice 20 gallon parts washer for $109. + tax. at HARBOR FRIEGHT TOOLS. There are locations all over California. See the link here. I think in L.A. one is in Lomita, Lakewood.... just look at this link under "retail" stores. I got my long arm jacks from this place and misc. tools and prices are great. Regards, R.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?f=salecats

[relayswitcher]

Pressure washed the case this afternoon until it got dark on me. Case cleaned up really well. Looking at it closer as I washed it, I noticed that most of the oil on the bottom of the case streamed down from the oil breather on top of the engine and not the oil cooler as I previously thought.


I sprayed some Purple Power degreaser you can get at any Auto Zone and let sit for about an hour, then pressured washed it.
Then I used some Gummout and let it sit for about an hour,
then wired brushed most of the cravesses and then pressured washed it again.


Then it got even cleaner.

I have a great little pressure washer that's shoots 1750 pounds per square inch at 1.5 gallons per minute. Trust me, that's plenty effective.

I'll get a little more detailed with some remaining areas and finish if off tomorrow.
RelaySwitcher