Gert’s Engine Rebuild & Upgrade (Chasing 300Hp, yes another one sorry)
 

Recently while fixing some perpetually increasing oil leaks (’78 RoW SC engine) I discovered a broken valve spring and while digging deeper a broken oil control ring.

Since I was going to rebuild/ upgrade the engine in a few years time to start club and historics racing I decided to accelerate the program and perform the rebuild & upgrade in stages. The car would eventually be campaigned as ’74 RSR 3.0L (IROC with the correct tail :)).

Stage 1: Chase 300hp with somewhat streetable engine as it will still be dual purpose, DEs, Racing schools, Mountain excursions and some limited Street use (Now)

Stage 2: All out dedicated race car max Hp with reliability to last at least 2 seasons (2 years down the line or as budget allows)

Stage 1 Build sheet (Overall budget $14K):

Short block, P&C
Mod Case for oil pump and line hone main bearing carriers
GT3 oil pump
Puater rods
JWE coated big end bearings
GT3 main bearings
Cross drill crank for 2&5 oiling
Magnaflux crank & polish journals
Bore and re-plate, hone Cyl (Mahle Nicasils)
10.5:1 Wossner pistons
Balance crank assembly

Heads, Cams, Chain boxes:
DC62 cams on 106 lobe centers
Re-bush rockers and new shafts
Upgraded valve springs (8Krpm safety margin)
+1mm Valves (SI swirl polished for this build)
Refurbish & Twin-plug head with new Ex guides
Home port heads and inlet manifolds (yes yes I know, but want to do this myself, will start a new thread for this)
Upgrade to later style chain tensioners and replace shafts
Replace all sprockets, ramps and timing chains

Ignition, Carbs and Exhaust:
Twin-plug distributor (Henry)
Twin MSD 6AL and related coils
42mm Venturi for 46 PMO carbs F16 emulsions etc
13/4” equal length primary header with Burns SS 3-1 merge collectors with reverse cone megaphones (Flowmaster series 10 delta flow or Burns slip on mufflers for street and sound restricted tracks)

I will update as things progress. Below is a picture of my car for reference


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1233855571.jpg

You didn't ask for comments or opinions but, hey, this is a forum:

Potential budget busters-
Upgraded head studs?
Ti valve retainers?
I hope your shop is going to magnaflux the crank before they cross-drill and polish it.
With the eventual plan to compete with this engine, I would use stainless fasteners and safety wire all critical components.

Mark

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the feedback, yep, was assuming folks would chime in where necessary since its a forum. The head studs were upgraded by the PO and looks like they are all steel studs, is this still a point of concern that needs to be addressed?

Very good point on the fasteners, which ones should plan on upgrading to SS and safety wire.

Are you using the original SC heads then? If so, Maybe to save some time and trouble, They say the stock Carrera heads flow good past 300 hp. "1topcat" looks like a similar build here except for some internals, He is using Carrera heads with DR racing springs which we just rebuilt for him.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/446986-1982-3-0l-rebuild.html

Since you are doing such a fine job inside the engine, I would use the studs that Supertec sells or maybe even ARP. Although it would be good to know what the PO used, maybe they are aftermarket and stronger than OEM.

For safety wiring critical fasteners, that usually means anything that secures fuel, oil, or the braking system. Also, obvious safety devices such as rollbar, seatbelt, etc.

Plus, it looks cool...

Mark

Mark, I am not sure about the benefit of the TI retainers on this relatively mild configuration, I would rather not spend the money there unless my view is ignorant and someone can correct me. Planned it as part of the 2nd Phase build.

That is so Jose Gaspar! Lol, you know it is Gasparilla in Tampa this weekend.

Been a while since been to your parts. Jack Lewis did a PPI for me several years ago. Looks like a fine example you have there.

That is some serious plan. Should be a very strong competitor.

Regards,

Funny you should mention Jack, he is very knowledgable , I am getting a lot of good help form him on the engine

Sounds like an interesting build, looking forward to the details...

wow!... i will have to watch this come together. i just picked up a 78' SC my self and plan to do a motor build a lot like this but with mega squirt injection added into the mix.

Update
 

Its a been a while since I started this thread and its time for an update:

After some investigation i came apon a ratio for throttle to venturi sizing and the 46 PMOs were slightly over the edge with 42mm venturis. That lead to the decision to be "future proof" by upgrading to 50mm PMOs with 41.5 mm venturis for the current configuration. This leaves room for expansion in the future when the engine will be in full race trim and should still be somewhat driveable.

With the funds i had available I ordered the following already:

Wossner pistons
Pauter Rods
Bored and replated cylinders
GT3 oil pump
Burns SS merge collector
Valves
rocker shafts

The cams are still work in progress and i expect them to be complete some time this month. One head was updated with the new +1 mm valves as a base for the headwork that i am doing in another thread.

The collectors on my current headers are not the most efficient and opted to go with these Burns SS merge collectors as the header primaries (1.75") are also a little on the big side. I didnt want to go one size down on the primaries as there are a few things i want to try to minimize reversion on overlap at the port header intersect. This merge collector will be used for trail fitting and will go back to them to complete the exhaust. The craftsmanship on these collectors are outstanding.

The list of things to order is still very long but I am out of moolah for now and will focus on headwork until mid April.

Here are some pictures

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236224536.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236224664.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236224692.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236224736.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236224779.jpg

Current Header

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236225001.jpg

Cheers

Gert

Out of Hibernation
 

Hi,

Finally.... out of hibernation, it felt like I would never get to this point... :(

A lot has happened since my last update. I will probably be able to complete the build by the end of the winter ready for the Spring season and will document the build for future DIY reference.

If anyone has any objections to me posting researched data please let me know. All sources for the data will be kept confidential if not publicly available and will reflect my final build criteria and critical tolerances. Comments and critique are always welcome.

The budget for the build has gone through the roof (not that I’m totally surprised but it’s still painful) due to initially unplanned upgrades and component changes which delayed the build till now.

To name but a few:

1) Straight cut steel IS shaft gears (gear reliability for use with high tension valve springs and high capacity GT3 oil pump)
2) Change from Glyco to Genuine Porsche on IS, main and big-end bearings (insurance )
3) Manually adjusted chain tensioners (insurance)
4) Adjustable Cam Sprockets (ease of cam timing , had to replace the sprockets anyway)
5) New head studs (insurance)
6) Extensive work on exhaust ports with race valve job by Bill D @ Xtreme cylinder heads (get exhaust ports to flow better)
7) Sleeving of the main bearing webs (insurance)
8) Genuine Porsche parts (timing chains, IS sprockets, ramps and cam feed oil lines) (insurance)
9) Change direction on headers with stepped primaries and merge collectors. (better torque)

In the mean time the following items were completed :

1) Refurbishing of the chain tensioner idler arm bushes and new shafts in chain boxes (CGarr)
2) Engine Case work i.e. cleaning, Oil pump mod, boat tailing, sleeving of the main bearing webs, JB Racing oil squirters (JB Racing, Self)
3) Crank oiling mod for #2 & #5 rods & new distributor drive gear (JB Racing)
4) Magaflux, polish and balance crankshaft and other engine components (KSS Sunbelt)
5) DR62 Cams and Refurbished rocker arms (Camgrinder)
6) Measuring and tabling of all journals diameters and clearances (Self, KSS Sunbelt)
7) Convert cam tower spraybar end plugs to screw in plugs (KSS Sunbelt
8) Machining lower valve covers for 2 plug heads. (CGarr)
9) Set ring gaps (KSS Sunbelt)

One of my main focus areas so far was to ensure that I get as much as possible data on suggested critical clearances for a race type engine, ensuring that they are as indicated and that all other measurements are within spec.

My measuring tools are not the best and I had to get 2nd opinions on all critical measurements. Luckily the Kinetic Motorsports group's Sunbelt Engine shop is within driving distance and they did all the measurements, sonic cleaning and miscellaneous machining.

Some setbacks:

The finished cylinder bores were too big 0.004" after the boring and plating and had to be redone, one piston wrist-pin to bore clearance is out of spec and one rod small end to wrist-pin clearance is out of spec and has to be double checked and rectified. I will post the measurements in the next update

Updates to follow:

Cheers

Update on Build
 

I had a few setbacks with getting all components together to complete the build. The Wossner pistons I had, had a myriad of problems and a friend lost a motor as a result and I had to change direction.

I worked with Mike at JB Racing and he specified JE pistons with CR@11.5 to work with the camshaft (314/296-106 Elgin). All other components are now in house and the build will start this weekend

I Completed all measurements and all are in spec. Here are some pictures before assembly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279249258.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279249309.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279248184.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279248214.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279248264.jpg

looking good! However if you are running 11.5:1 CR the heads in your picture are all missing a spark plug hole.... :)

Cheers

I agree with Jeff that 11.5 CR will need a twin plug set up unless you run race gas only.

Here what you might expect with your build:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/246563-another-rsr-clone-project-dyno-day.html

^^^^ Guys, I think he mentioned that twin plugs are in the plans.

I never get tired of these posts. Hope to learn some good stuff here.

Good luck!!

Heads.
 

Taking your advice, added another plug hole :-)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279481932.jpg

Headwork was done here http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/455530-homebrew-head-porting-attempting-dark-art.html

Update on Build Concerned about limited squeeze-out
 

Started assembly yesterday in an exteremely hot in Atlanta, low 90's with very high humidity. Used Henry's case sealing kit with "Wrightwood Racing" gasket set with the viton seals. Everything went well up to the time that I had to get ready to mate the cases. I spread the 1194 for perimeter sealing with a small wide brush and kept the layer thin as was suggested on the tube and covered all areas well and 574 on the webs, again a thin layer and the 1211 on the #8 bearing mating surface. By the time i mated the cases which could not have been 10 minutes after i started spreading the 1194, the 1194 was already kind of dry i.e. not very taky.

There was squeeze out after i mated and bolted the case down but not as much as i have seen from others. I worked as fast as i could and bolted the through bolts down 1st it took about 15 minutes and the perimiter another 10 minutes there after.

As this is my 1st Porsche engine i am now doubting myself about the perimeter sealing because of the small amout of squeez out. Attached some pictures of the process showing the case with the sealant before i mated the cases. The big question for me is do i have enough sealing or not, and, do I stop and do it over or continue and trust that all will be ok. Hopefully some experts can chime in.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279484057.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279484263.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279484315.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279484357.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279484404.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279484434.jpg

Cheers

Gert

From what I can see, you have plenty of "squeeze out." Your before picture seems to show complete coverage. Unless your fingers unintentionally wiped some part clean when putting the halves together, you should be good based on that alone. Even very small squeeze-out ought to verify that you have a full seal behind it.

I'm only familiar with the orange Loctite, but this stuff ought to behave the same way in that regard. I'm a bit slapdash, but have never had a case leak at a seam.

Thanks Walt, I also looked at the squeeze out on the inside of the case and it was roughly the same. I am going to move ahead with the assembly.

Cheers
Gert

Engine Build
 

Glad to see you are making progress. My car is looking for a big brother to play with in the N. GA. mountains, and soon! Can't wait for the locals to do a double-take when they see not 1, but 2, black, '70s 911s frolicking on a sunny day among the twisty curves. :D

Yea, to me it feels more like resurrection. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat3.gif

Really hoped to be done for next weekend's Caffeine and Octane but i could only get a dyno slot later in the month.

Cheers

Gert

Update
 

Made some more progress:

Piston installation went smooth. I took Mike Bruns' advice in the Stomski Racing cir-clip injector tool and the cir-clip installation was a breeze. Definitely worth the investment.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280453352.jpg

Deck height measured out at .043" 1.09mm that reduced the calculated CR to 11.3:1.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280453429.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280453510.jpg

Piston to head clearance measured 1.98mm. I used the solder to map the clearance all the way over the piston dome and it was uniform as can be seen in the picture below. (Note, It did not take very much pressure to compress the solder to get the measurement)


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280453538.jpg

I mated the heads to the cam towers first and then installed the assembly to the cylinders.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280453657.jpg

More to come

Update 2
 

Installed the camshafts, chain boxes and adjustable cam gears, had to move a couple of shims around to get the sprocket alignment right.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280455053.jpg

Another good tool investment made the sprocket alignment easy.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280455153.jpg

Timing on both cams were spot on at 5.0mm lift. Valves adjusted and ready to close up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280455429.jpg

JBRacing twin plug distibutor. Upgraded to CW rotation with later 3.2L timing gear on the crankshaft.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280455525.jpg

50mm PMOs going on.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280455660.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280455844.jpg

Still to be completed this weekend:

Routing and installing of plug wires, replacing of electric oil pressure gauge with mechanical gauge, replacing of header collectors with merge collectors and complete exhaust.

Scheduled dyno time for break-in and tuning mid August.

Cheers

Gert

Looking really fabulous. I see you are installing the DC62 @ 106 lobe center. Has anyone set these any tighter than that? Motors with short runners like this and high compression make fabulous power with say about 100 lobe center on the intake. A 3L Ferrari engine I just built with a near identical cam profile made best power at a super tight 98 degree intake center and 100 degree exhuast center!

Looking at your head , was wandering what is the threaded hole on the exhaust port?

thanks

PW

Heads of that era had an M10x1.0 threaded threaded hole into the exhaust port to allow the injection of air into that location. An emissions band-aid which every hot rodder plugs with a suitable short bolt or set screw (not being able to find set-screws in this size on short notice I cut off bits of bolt and hack sawed a screw driver slot in them - it worked fine mostly).

That head in the picture was cast from 7/76 molds. I'd have expected them to be 2.7 heads, but if used on a 3.0 case they can't be. Perhaps they were for the Euro 3.0 Carrera? I think I see a 930 part number in the picture, but that number is a bit obscure.

But I can see Porsche using those on the '78 SC. Maybe the molds lasted a long time? Or they had a large run to use up?

Walt

Thanks. I am sure there are some folks that use the profile un-altered and they can chime in if they read this.

I changed to a slightly more aggressive profile 314/296@106 but with the same lobe spacing. From my limited understanding of the situation the additional spacing in the lobes (reduced overlap) limit the over scavenging of the efficient merge collector headers that pulls fresh charge into the exhaust and makes for more driveability at the bottom end of the prower range with a minor sacrifice at peak power.

I completed the carb linkage and some routing of the plug wires. The Turbo sytle valve covers need to be modified a little to work with the lower spark plug holders.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1281135967.jpg


I changed the collectors on my headers to Burns-SS merge collectors as originally planned. They welded on the tabs, v-band flanges and also made reverse cone megaphones according to their SW header design tool. These are pieces of art and the crafmanship is exceptional. I had to remove the old collectors and make the new ones fit.

It was a bear to do and a lot more difficult than I initially thought. I had to cut and realign almost all the primaries, in some cases more than once and re-weld to lign up to the collector. In the end it worked out fine except where my limited welding skills were applied.

Original Bursh style header:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1281134625.jpg


Header with new merge collector and reverse cone megaphone:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1281134668.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1281134725.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1281134813.jpg

I will complete the exhaust this weekend

Cheers
Gert

Fantastic! I am realy enjoying this thread. If I were a gambling man, which I'm not, I would say you are going to meet your goal. Is she going right into the car or are you going to hit the flywheel dyno first?

Flywheel dyno next Monday!

nice build there Gert...I don't recall if you commented on why you are not running pressure fed chain tensioners...?? Is this a track motor only, possibly, thus you are going w/ solid (turbo) tensioners...??

I look fwd to your dyno results as many others do I am sure...

What do you think the f/wheel hp will be...??

Thx & keep up the great work...

Bob

Thanks Bob,

Its still a dual purpose car at this point, both track and some weekend mountain driving. I opted to use the solid chain tensioners from a safety, cost and weight point of view. Since the car will not be driven day to day i felt that this additional work could be tied in with valve lash adjustments a few times a year as part of a pre or post DE maintenance program.

My hope is to get to 330Hp as the original build plan was bumped up a few notches with higher CR, more aggressive cam profile as well as head design and flow that would add to the original estimate. There are some folks that are running 350- 380Hp 3.0L race motors as per this thread which makes it possible but I didnt go all the way i.e. Xtreme head castings, Ti valves etc. . Realistically I think I should get in the 300 to 310Hp range with my build and Frankenstein exhaust, and with the help of Mike at JB Racing maybe a little higher ;), if i didnt screw anything up along the way.

I should have the answer by next week this time.

Cheers

Gert

I cant wait to see your dyno numbers! Im building a 3.2SS with RSR pistons, Early Large port heads (by Steve W:) )Mod s cams, JB twin plug distruibutor, 46mm PMO's with SSI's and a sport Dansk. Im hoping for 260ish if all goes well. Your build kinda makes me wish I had gone high comp pistons and a bit more agressive setup. Either way, it is going in a light early car so it should be fine. Please keep up the pictures! They are very inspiring!

Engine Build
 

Amazing Gert. My guess is after this car is done you will want to either build another car or start your own business. Looking forward to that call from you stating you are coming over with your masterpiece.

Wow!

Dyno Day
 

Well, Gert is on his way back to Atlanta a happy man ! I will let him reveal the results.

Thanks, Mike Bruns JBRacing.com

Can't wait. Sounds fabulous.

Mike that is an understatement ! Thanks again for helping with this build and yesterday's tuning, it would not have been possible without you and the team at JB Racing. I will let you comment on the detaill of what was achieved

I was very nervious about staring the motor up, way too many things went through my head that i could have done wrong. On Mike's recommendation we did the dyno session on Joe Gibbs break in oil that has the correct additives to protect the bearings, cams and rockers but allows the rings to seat very quickly.

Oil pressure was great and went up to 80 Psi above ~4.5K Rpm @180 deg F

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1282064217.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1282064357.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1282064383.jpg

I have not downloaded pictures from my camera yet, will do so tonight and fill in a few gaps.

The very first power pull on the motor provided 296Hp & 23 #ft TQ with no stacks and very save (rich) mixture. From there on the motor just went up as we completed about 20 10-12 sec pulls.

Peak Hp was acheived with open stacks and reverse cone megaphones 330.5 Hp @ 8K Rpm with 238.7 #ft TQ.

With the K&N watershields mounted we lost 3 Hp at the peak and and got max TQ.

The last 3 posted sheets were very interesting as we mounted the mufflers i use on the car and almost lost nothing to the reverse cone megaphones. The power moved around in the rage a lttle but from maximum numbers not much difference in fact in one pull (the last one #20) we had full load on WOT at 3.5K Rpm and the motor didnt bog at all delivered 185 #ft at that RPM and kept on pulling.


So, yes, i am very happy with the results :D


Cheers

Gert

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1282064053.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1282064075.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1282064098.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1282064120.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1282064144.jpg

Great Job! Two hands on the wheel from 5500 - 6500 rpm please!:eek:

Very nice! 330 HP should silence the nay-sayers regarding a 3.0 SC. Great work.

Lindy