2.7 MFI High 10.5:1 It's alive

eapcpa · 05-11-2009, 03:53 AM

Yesterday I finally fired it up for the first time. Still have a few things to sort out before I drive it so I did not run it long. Sure is good to hear it run finally.

Relay panel on the left needs to be straightened up, waiting for a Steel braided breather hose but you get the idea. Biggest problem is the clutch, when I press the pedal it is binding somehow. I have put Porsche engines and trannys together over a dozen times without a problem so I don't yet know what I did wrong here but I will get it right.

billybek · billybek's Garage

If you posted a warning, I would have worn my sunglasses!
Very nice. Post a sound clip when you can.
Congrats!

MBruns · 05-11-2009, 05:19 AM

That looks nice Ed !
Mike Bruns JBRacing.com

dtw · 05-11-2009, 06:17 AM

Dang Ed, you've been busy haven't you! Looks awesome. Is this in the track rat Targa? Is it me or is that chassis freshened up since that last time I saw it?

356RS · 356RS's Garage

Looks very nice Ed. Super clean and I bet it sounds fantastic.

eapcpa · 05-11-2009, 11:00 AM

Thanks for the encouragement. It does sound nice so I will post a sound byte after I get it sorted. It is amazing what a little cleaning and paint will do.
Before:

After:

Ignore the date stamp on the after photo. That was just a few weeks ago.

jbell959 · 05-11-2009, 08:51 PM

Hi Ed... Very nice... Could you post some details on you air filter setup. I was just getting ready to fab up something similar.

eapcpa · 08:12 AM

jbell959
I assume you are asking about the 1" spacer under the K&N filters. I designed and had those machined out of 1" aluminum plate. They serve two purposes, first they get the filters up away from the top of the MFI pump and steel lines as well as the throttle misroswitch lever on the left bank. Second, they are drilled for the cold start injection system and are plumbed around the backside with braided line to the cold start injector. PM me or email me eapcpa@nc.rr.com and I will give you my number if you would like to discuss the design further. I designed it this way so I did not have to modify the Mag stacks on my 2.2S motor that this replaced. Everything can be returned to the original air box in about 1 hour.

2.7RS MFI twin plug Gratuitous pics

jbell959 · 05-12-2009, 09:13 AM

Hi Ed.. Now I remember asking about them on your thread back in 2007. I like they way you did those. I'll drop you an email - I may want to do something like that. Thanks

Scott Clarke · Scott Clarke's Garage

Great solution for the filters! I went through the process of removing the microswitch, off-setting the left filter, rigging up a cold start manifold on top of the filter lids, etc. Yours is the better idea! I'd love to see some pictures of the spacers un-installed. I think it might be worth a separate thread, if you are so inclined. Again, great job!
-Scott

eapcpa · 05-15-2009, 07:33 AM

Scott that is a lot of work. Might just have to post the spacers so folks can see how it was done. The best part is it can be returned to the stock setup. Well, I cleaned up the relay panel, replaced the tach adapter I burned up, fixed the clutch issue, replaced the alternator, and drove the car with no rear bumper or ducktail. Runs great when it's running great but it starts spitting and farting out the exhaust and it quit about a mile an a half from home. It started running bad yesterday so I rechecked the alternator that was tested prior to installation. It was not producing. Pulled the alternator from the 2.2 motor and it now puts out 13.85 volts. Good to go, right!! Wrong. I think I have a fuel pump issue. Is there a tank screen on a 1970S fuel tank. I drained the tank prior to starting the first time and put in fresh gas. The old fuel was muddy colored and smelled like varnish. New lines and filter but old pump. It runs strong and smooth for a while and then starts running ragged and it quit. I reviewed all connections on the side of the road and found no problems. Got in and it fired right up blip the throttle to clear it and drove back toward home. About 1/2 mile from home it did it again. Looked it over again and checked the MSD boxes for heat, no problems found. Jumped in and it fired right away, ran super smooth until I got to my driveway, started the same spitting and missing with little response to throttle and just got weaker until it quit. I am at the end of a cul-de-sac and down hill slightly so I coasted it into the shop. I think I need to drain the tank and have it professionally cleaned and replace the fuel pump. Any other thoughts on this. Three years ago it did this a few times but not as bad. I thought it was the MFI pump, but this is a different pump rebuilt by Gus. Now I suspect the electric pump. Where do I get one? I heard they are NLA. I cant tune the system until I resolve this issue. Thanks for the info in advance.

Steve@Rennsport · 05-15-2009, 08:08 AM

Ed,

Before you get too excited about having to replace the electric pump, I'd pull the outlet fittings under the tank to make sure the screen is clear and the tank is spotlessly clean.

Old gas turns to varnish that immediately clogs the screen and if that isn't all flushed and cleaned out, it continues to sluff off and clog things up. THAT, dear Sir can make the pump burn up.

LOL,..I went though this very same situation with a '73 lighttwt RS several years ago on the way back from Phoenix,...

eapcpa · 05-15-2009, 09:36 AM

Thanks for the response Steve,

I will look into that Monday. Getting ready to head out of town. Big 25th anniversary so wife and I are heading to the mountains, obviously without the Targa. What a shame, weather should be beautiful. I suspected the tank issue but I do not remember seeing a screen in any of the fittings. I will definitely give it a shot. Wish me luck. I will report back next week. TGIF!!

Steve@Rennsport · 05-15-2009, 02:52 PM

Happy Anniversary, man. Thats a great milestone,...

eapcpa · 05-19-2009, 07:25 AM

Steve,

You were spot on. Had a great weekend in the mountains and last night I drained the tank and pulled the strainer. Looked like a thin layer of rusty mud covered it. That screen is very fine mesh. I cleaned it with solvent and a toothbrush and then with solvent and air pressure. I could hold it up to a light and see it was clear. Used air and solvent to back flush it as well. Drove to the gas station this AM and it was a completely different car. No spitting and popping. In fact I think it is a touch rich now. It did not fully warm up yet so I will need to drive it again this afternoon and then start tuning the MFI system.

On a side note, I connected the MSD tach lead to the Black/purple wire at the 14 pin connector going to the front of the car. I noticed the fuel shut off micro switch has no affect on deceleration. As I thought about it, (asking for confirmation) I need to pickup the black/purple wire (not used now) from the engine harness going into the speed sensor in the relay panel next to the rear defrost relay. I think I bypassed the sensor by going directly to the tach. Any thoughts on this?