displacement and upgrades help

[IDGAF27]

Long story short:

1968 Frankenstein with 2.2L 911T egine.

droped the eng. to sell it . not correct for the year.
posted on FS.
Some1 pointed to a cilinders, wich apeard to be 2.4S or E cilinders.
Stoped sale and started digging in eng.
This what I found and can't put all together what rebuilder was achieving.

Cilinders are 84-70.4 ( stamp on a side) wich makes 'em 2.4L or 2.7
Cams T - most likely regrainded to specs.
Rocker arms- cast ironw/bushings
Crank - can't read # and don't see is it counterweight or not
can't read cilinder diameter nor pistons #

Eng. 911-07 wich is T; heads T;
Intake/exauhst - 32mm
Webers 40ID with 32 venturi

So, my question is: does it sounds right way to go on a 2.4/2.5 or 2.7 build


what would you think about an setup like that?

to give more to think tranny is 915-44 ( ROW or 911S Mag case tranny )
Stage two clutch ( Sachs )
275 rear tires

Please chime in....just want to know what is there?

[Raceboy]

84mm/70.4 stroke cylinders mean 2.4liters (84 is the same on 2.2, but with 66mm crank). 2.7 had 90mm bore.

Seeing if is crank counterweighed is easy, either there are counterweights or there aren't

Does your crank has those large parts like on this pic or not ?



If you do have counterweighed crank, you should either sell heads and get ones with bigger valves (46/40 intake/exhaust) but as I've read, cranks without counterweights are not necessarily weaker and not going to break, at least if you're not going to spin it 8000rpm.

If you decide to go with different pistons and cylinders, I'd be interested in cylinders

[IDGAF27]

Thanks Byron for input.

I haven't split the block, or dismounted anything from engine.

I was hoping for any SPECULATIONS what and why, and.......etc

I just opened some holes and w/ Ridgid Snake Eye (HomeDepot) looke inside the engine.

My summary: all I saw - is in OP
to see what inside- need to split engine and messure up everything
DON'T BUY "RIDGID SNAKE EYE" - it is crap.

[Raceboy]

You can see whether crank has counterweights or not even without splitting the case, just rotate the crank a bit and look inside the cylinder hole.

[304065]

Gytis,

WELCOME to the engine rebuilding forum, it's John from NYC! (Belgian beer time soon!)

My advice: given what you have been through, do not sell ANYTHING until you have it thoroughly checked out. You could be selling a motor with a 906 crank. . .

FIRST. . . more photos of EVERYTHING. . . the ones on your for sale link show me the following:

1) Biral 84mm cylinders. You can tell by the narrow cut on the bottom and the fact that the fins are aluminum. These could have been bored larger to 85 which is about the limit. The factory used Chromal and later Nikasil cylinders, but I think the Chromals are going to look similar from the outside.

2) 1971 911T case. Sometimes the old cases would strip out the oil fittings so cheap replacement cases were used. It's not a bad case, it's actually the same one I have in my race car. Yours doesn't have the oil bypass modification performed, I can tell that from the plugs for the oil overpressure valves, but it probably has piston squirters, good!

3) Heads dated 8-70. This makes it 1971 model year, those are 2,2 heads. What is the port diameter of the intake and exhaust ports, measured with a caliper in mm?

4) Left chainbox has the mounting boss for a smog pump, that makes the chain box later. Also, it looks like later cam towers due to the 11 studs on the exhaust side.

5) The air deflectors don't appear to have been modified for additional cooling. This was a period modification done in the 1970s, most rebuilders will cut the deflectors as it takes only a few minutes to do and lowers engine temps significantly. That would suggest that it's original (or done by a builder that didn't do that).

6) NGK BP5ES plugs are two heat ranges hotter than the BP7ES that you would ordinarily use in a 911T engine. Perhaps this is because the engine had internal oil leaks or the carbs were out of tune, somebody wanted a hot plug to keep it running. . . if it were modified internally I would think the plugs would be colder (e.g) have a shorter insulator)

7) The nuts are DIN 985 nylon lock, this doesn't really tell me anything as they were in common use by 1971. HOWEVER, what is the headmark on the standard nuts? Is it a "V" or something that looks like a funny shaped "R"? Or is it something like "IOI" or "C"? This allows us to know the manufacturer-- and the factory never used Taiwanese fasteners in the engines, so you know it's been opened if you find those.

8) Those are normal height weber manifolds, rectangular openings in the stiffening ribs and coated with a thick black "Imron" type finish. Stock for the year. As are the webers, are they IDA3T? What is the Weber serial number? It's on a small oval spot on each side.

9) That is a vacuum advance distributor, what is the part number on the side?

That is all for the moment. . . you are so lucky. . . I wouldn't sell anything yet.

[IDGAF27]

I know it has bin so long,since I posted here anything. Thanks for a kind words and sharing of your knowlage.

[IDGAF27]

After inspecting P/C , Cams, Valve diameters and rest of the eng appaeras it was built to 2.5L specs.
Engine is apart and going through inspection of every single bit. There is a lot upgrades in parts department. Made bunch of pics.
Will be building 2.5L w/Webers again w/some more advanced mods than it was available in 86, when above mentioned engine was built.

Tanks to all and looking forward for a good sugestions on upgrades and ways to make it bullet proof...............

[Flat6pac]

Non counter weight cranks are automatically 2.0/2.2
visually, without measuring, the counterweight crank, where it is drilled for the oil gallys in the rods then plugged. The 2.4/2.7 drill hole is larger but you need the 2 together to compare.
Bruce

[IDGAF27]

[QUOTE=304065;4772744]Gytis,

WELCOME to the engine rebuilding forum, it's John from NYC! (Belgian beer time soon!)

QUOTE]

Hi John, any recomendations whom to send crank, cams, p/c's for evaluating?

Thanks KG.

p.s. do you still have those fenders and 1/4 panels for 68?

[911st]

Most used 2.7 RS pistons to build a 2.5. This made for a very low compression motor and only worked with mild cams.

Get J&E to make you some 90mm pistons (apx $1000) for your motor that bumps the compression from about 7.5/1 to 9.5/1 or so. Have cams reground to S or Modified S specs.

If you measure the intake ports at 32mm it might have 2.7 normal heads on it or the 2.2T's were cut to fit. Get a set of 2.7S heads (36mm) or open the heads up to 34-36mm.

This will give you a sweet and spicy motor that you can rev to 7500rpm with little effort.