You're going to need a lot more than one tube of JB Weld.:eek:

The PO must have heard some knocking and kept driving. You might have an easier project it he would have stopped at the first sign of a problem. Anyway, that's one less Porsche in the hands of a bone head. More progress photos please!!

Oh come on!!! That's just a mooned cylinder. He saved you money on a performance upgrade! Be thankful! I'd say 2 tubes of JB weld and a tube of RTV and you will be running again in no time!

-Michael

Unfortunately there's not much to rebuild from. You're better off getting a complete core somewhere and building that, or try your chances at a good used motor.

Well, that's impressive. After seeing that, I'd be surprised if the case isn't warped.

Keep the pics coming.

I've got the cases apart, and everything out, and I must say, its FAR FAR better shape than I could have hoped for. Don't get me wrong, it's probably all trashed. But for being run out of oil, 13 out of 14 crank bearings are not trashed.

SO I title these two pictures:
One of these things is not like the others, one of these things is just not the same.....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1249959729.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1249959759.jpg

more mass carnage
 

So I'm pretty sure the 6 Qts of oil I poured in before starting the engine REALLY didn't help lubricate much in that few seconds of running...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1249960111.jpg

Since you might notice that the intermediate shaft that drives the oil pump got violently cut in two by a flailing connecting rod.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1249960249.jpg


And then notice the remains of a connecting rod bolt that is wedged down in near where the cylinder slides in.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1249960378.jpg

So educate me about case warpage.
Symptoms? Problems? Measurements needed? What is warped relative to what else?

Richard

Hey Rich! Nice to see you on here, its an awesome resource.

Yeah, that looks a bit worn. I would try popsicle sticks and rubber bands to splint he intermediate shaft, cap the bad cylinder and run it as a 5 cyl boxer!

Heh. Good luck finding a used/core engine - I'll ask around. The local shop owner is putting a 3.2 in his 72 VW camper Bus (to replace the 2.4)!

I'm running cost comparisons of fixing what I can of what I have, Vs Buying different used parts, Vs buying a completely different engine. Help me out if you can:

Initial Crank shaft journal measurements show all the journals within standard specifications. Er, all but one ;)

Though this is done with just a digital caliper setup not as accurate Micrometer, so it will need to be done again. But I just had to know if it was close enough to think about welding, grinding and heat treating.

I know I know, it may never be as hard as the original finish, but put aside the "I would never risk that" comments for a second, and help me figure out just what I might expect in terms of costs.

Assume that only one journal needed welded and ground down, and the rest could be polished. (I assume any shop that would do that would also balance the crank again. Correct?)
Who has done this and at what cost?
Now assume two journals, as one was closer to the limit than the others.

Did some hunting on my own.
Validate this if you can: If the crank turns relatively freely in the cases when the cases are bolted together, can you safely say the cases are not warped and the crank is not Bent?

Clean that case up and have a really detailed look around. You don't want to start spending money on a case that might be bad. Also, you should follow the same test process as the crank on the intermediate shaft after the hit it took. Spin to win!

Love the carnage shots - can't wait for the clean glory shots!!

Your missing the coup de gras on that engine...


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250053656.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250053676.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250053687.jpg

Probably the only salvageable parts will be the case, crank. cam towers, heads, cams....probably the head over the broken rod will need to be replaced.. rocker arms may need only one or two replaced....

You are going to have to flush the whole oil system out, remove the front mounted cooler and engine cooler and send them out for ultrasonic cleaning.. remove the oil lines and flush them..

It will probably be more cost effective to buy a 3.6 or a 3.8 from a reliable source and upgrade that way...

We have had many cranks reground, journals repaired, cranks offset ground for stroke, cranks center drilled for center main oil improvements..


Armondo at CCR has been good to us.... other people will post negatives about CCR regarding turnaround etc.. we haven't seen that

Also reading back and forth through this thread, you question if a reground crank journal will be of the same hardness....

Yes...the guy we use re-hardens the crank after machining... the whole crank... you will get a line on the bill for disposal of hazardous materials.. the pickling salts...

Hi Richard,

After seeing the pictures of that Crank I don't think I would run that in any engine.
Looking at the picture, it looks like part of the "Cheek" of the Crank is missing at the top of the journal.

Thanks,
Dave

Are you talking about the non machined webbing that is on the left and right of the bad rod journal surface? Though dented, that part is not missing any material. the picture is deceiving. Here's a better one:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250088716.jpg

Richard

Tough lil bastad
 

I got myself a set of metric Micrometers 0-100mm and of course had to go to town measuring things.

This is one tough engine. Despite losing a connecting rod from BOTH ends, most everything is still within specs. Of course the one bad rod journal is not, but it looks as if it could be ground down to -0.5mm undersize. Every other journal (Rod and main) are within factory spec.

Try running a small block Chevy out of oil and you would get a completely different result.

I'm actually a bit sad at not actually fixing the crank and cases to give this engine a second chance. But it looks as if I'm picking up a whole other 3.2 from a pelican member that already had most of the machine work done.

Richard

don't be sad... you will hopefully be re couping some of your $$ spent on the replacement engine by selling what you can from this engine. A lot better than trashing the entire engine as I know of 1 shop that did to a customer!!
Best of luck here and you are making the wise decision to get another engine.
**Just do not forget to remove the hard oil lined & what ever oil cooler set up you had and ultrasonically clean or better yet, replace them. I have herd of after such being ultrasonically cleaned that not all of the debris was removed and the replacement engine was trashed on the guy...
Bob

don't be sad... you will hopefully be re couping some of your $$ spent on the replacement engine by selling what you can from this engine. A lot better than trashing the entire engine as I know of 1 shop that did to a customer!!
Best of luck here and you are making the wise decision to get another engine.
**Just do not forget to remove the hard oil lined & what ever oil cooler set up you had and ultrasonically clean or better yet, replace them. I have herd of after such being ultrasonically cleaned that not all of the debris was removed and the replacement engine was trashed on the guy...
Bob

How much for the alternator mounting ring. Just the ring no fan or alternator. Shipping to 67230. Please email price with shipping to kepperly@sbcglobal.net.

Thanks Keith Epperly