Landon,

Take some pics of the case where your concerns are. I'm sure everyone would be interested.
I'll PM you with some thoughts later.

Dana

engine at the machine shop
 

My engine arrived at Ollie's today so I'm in a holding pattern until it all gets back. Now I've got to start assembling all the rebuild supplies.

Still shopping for an upgraded, 4-rib style oil pump. Also thinking about splicing in an external oil cooler but I suppose that could wait till later.

I may also paint the sheet metal, fan, head covers, engine compartment etc. Anybody got ideas for a color scheme? I've seen a few posts on the subject.

Anything else I should do while I wait?

Landon

Ollie's report card
 

So like I said previously, everything arrived at Ollie's safely. Here's a list of what I shipped in case anyone is curious:

- Cam Housing/Heads
- Oil pump (old 3 rib)
- #8 bearing (don't ask me why I sent this...)
- Intermediate shaft
- Rods/bolts
- Pistons/Cylinders
- Case (duh)
- Flywheel
- Crank

Total shipping cost $280 (I carried some extra insurance).

Again, in case anyone is curious or researching their own project, here is the damage from the inspection.

- Align bore to std -- 590
- Case Head stud inserts (case savers) -- 290
- Remove Head studs -- 50 (I should have done this myself)
- Deep insert at #3 -- 50 (near tranny)
- 3 10mm inserts at tranny -- 50
- Clean oil squirters -- 50
- R&R oil plugs case -- 70
- Hot tank case -- 40
- Bypass mod -- 110
- Bypass kit -- 55
- Barrel shims -- 45
- Valve job plus parts, labor and misc -- 964
- Exhaust studs -- 120
- Rockers, bushings, polish, clean, surface tower -- 448
- magna flux crank -- 40
- R&R oil plugs crank-- 130
- micro polish crank -- 40
- resurface flywheel -- 85
- clean/blast pistons -- 120
- deglaze cylinders -- 90
- recondition rods -- 150
- rod bushings -- 27

They also quoted me 290 to rebuild my oil pump which I'm declining since I was planning on upgrading the pump anyway. Clearing for a larger pump will run 80.

Regrinding the camshafts will run 375 but here's the sad part -- my camshafts had two different profiles so they didn't match. WTF? I'm trying to get in touch with Dougherty Racing cams to see if they can regrind them to S specs since the pistons had S part numbers on them.

Total bill ~$4K. Ouch. George was they guy I was talking to. He's great at explaining what everything means and real helpfull.

I haven't pulled the trigger yet because I'm working through some other unplanned financial issues.

I just thought of my first question:

Can an amateur mechanic like myself install the case savers?

I did, but everyone will tell you no. CGarr helped me out but it was not an easy task. Im building a 2.7, and it will be going back in on sat. Drilling and installing the inserts using a drill press took me 16 hours. Machine shop in NJ wanted a grand to do, so I did it myself. Sounds like you are getting a good deal

Hmmm. This does sound like a good deal - even more so because I don't have a drill press.

How did they turn out?

great pictures. subscribed.

i used ollies, they do excellent work.
and george is a great guy, he'll answer all your questions.
he really know his stuff.
when it comes to machining let a pro do it.
you know the saying, $100 for a pro to do it right the first time versus $200 to fix your mistakes.

So I'm passing on the oil pump rebuild and camshaft grind. Talked to Dougherty cams and got a good option. Still haven't purchased a new pump but am getting close.

So far Ollie's has been the right choice. Just wish I didn't have this other complication that's making me wait. I'm anxious to start putting all the pieces together.

Landon

Update Feb 2010
 

Ouch, it's been too long.

Getting ready to call George back at Ollie's and give him the go-ahead (yeah for tax refunds).

My new (used) 4-rib oil pump arrived last month.

Now I just need to get the gasket and hardware rebuild kits...and am still shopping for the chain tensioner upgrade kit...and I need to get my cams to the camgrinder...and there's probably more I haven't figured out yet.

Question 1: how to clean an oil pump short of taking it apart? I think I read somewhere here to full it up with brake cleaner or something. It spins freely now.

Question 2: besides the off-the-shelf chain tensioner kit, what else do I need? Spacers?

Looks like I'm back on my schedule of finishing this before my kids can drive.

Ollies
 

So Ollies did my cases and heads and did great work. One thing, however, is I would have had them put Time Certs in everywhere--in all the studs on the cases. I have spent lots and lots of time putting them in as studs pulled during the assembly process (and I had to disassemble stuff, be super careful about chips falling in the motor, etc etc.) I asked George if there was anything else I should be doing and he did not mention doing this--and at that stage I did not know enough to ask. So ask about this.

Also
 

I would put Jerry Woods valve springs in while I had it open--cheap insurance. I am putting them into mine after a valve float scare.

Bump for oil pump question
 

I hadn't heard anything and thought I'd throw this out again:

Bought a 4-rib pump and am wondering if there's any special prep I need to do before installing it. It spins now with minimal effort and has a smooth rotation.

Thanks...

"Drop" method was too complicated for me
 

...so now I need a new cooling fan. Fabulous.

Was trying to get the fan/alternator apart and prep some external parts for painting/finishing. I'm an idiot. And too embarrassed to post pictures.

Good news is I should be hearing from Ollie's soon and will be picking up all the parts.

Signed,
Moron

Any updates on this one? Been following your rebuild...

UPDATE//picking up my motor next week
 

Going by Ollie's sometime next week to pick up all the pieces. George called yesterday with the good news. I'll post any gouge I get from this experience.

I bought a cooling fan from Oklahoma Foreign. Bead blasted, no chips. $100. I was actually in the store so that helped. It looks sweet.

The oil pump I bought is still on the shelf and I trying to figure out what I need to do (if anything) prior to install. It turns freely.

On a much larger scale though, I'll be moving in early June and will have to pack up all the motor parts for a later assembly. Bad news is the rebuild will have to wait till we get settled. Good news is I'll be living in SoCal...well, that's kind of good news if you consider that I'll be an hour or so away from all the LA Basin shops and swaps. Also about 15 minutes from Willow Springs.

Has anyone stored a disassembled motor for any length of time? I'm wondering if I need to do anything special besides packing it up good with lots of protection from bumps. How about the chassis? Does it require any special attention during storage?

I'll post the post-Ollie's update when I get the chance.

Landon


With any luck, I'll hopefully be at this again in July.

Subscribing for information purposes.

Good luck with your move and the rebuilding!

Just got back from Ollie's
 

Here's a rather bad picture of George. I can echo all the previous accolades about these guys. Their shop was spectacular. His eyes aren't always closed - just a bad photographer and an embarrassed subject.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272595642.jpg

Great thread!! I hope to hear more about your adventures. I don't have the balls to take on a project like an engine rebuild, but I salute you and your effort. Keep us informed.

Brent

Dude,
please post pics of your parts, especially case. When you get them back. I would like to see Ollies handy work.

Wilco on posting some pictures. Anything in particular you want to see (any special part of the case)?

My case is at Ollies right now. How about send pic's of detailed outside and inside of the case, basically all modifications.
TIA,

post-Ollie's pictures
 

OK, here's what I have for post-Ollie's pictures.

First, this is before-and-after on a piston (they still look like S pistons to me):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273379410.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273379494.jpg

Here's a head and cam tower after shot:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273379641.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273379748.jpg

Finally, a shot of the case where you can partially see the bypass mod. I also had them align bore to std, new inserts all around, clean the squirters which I'm doubting I can get a good picture of.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273379884.jpg

What else? For the most part, I have everything packaged up for my move next month and I'll be on hold for the assembly until at least July. As I said previously, Ollie's gave me 10%+ off the price because I paid cash and picked it up myself. I will say that they did a fine job packaging everything up.

-Landon

One more thing; I can dig something out of the box if there's a picture someone wants to see that I missed. Let me know.

L

Signing off temporarily
 

Alright guys,

I'm going off-net for a while so we can move to SoCal. Should be back up later this summer. Can't wait to get back at it.

Landon

Good Luck Buddy.

Back on-line...
 

...in the high desert of California.

Just pulled the car out of storage and into my own garage. started dusting off my rebuild books trying to remember what I still need.

Landon

Glad to see you are back in the saddle.

not quite in the saddle...more like looking at the saddle and a reluctant horse.

Engine hardware shopping in Anaheim
 

I'm going to be in Anaheim, CA for a couple of days. Would like to pick up some of the missing pieces I need to start the engine rebuild. Anyone know of any good stores in the area? Specifically, I need (from Wayne's book)

- some of the sealants
- rod bearings
- rod bolts
- flywheel bolts
- main/intermediate bearings
- engine case hardware
- all the little parts you have to replace when rebuilding

Anyone heard of Westwerk? Looks like it might be close.

Thanks.
Landon

Bump for progress?

Glad you asked...
 

Just got done putting the first rod on the crank. Gotta admit I was scared to start, but after staring at everything for a couple of days, I thought I'd just jump in. All the stuff from Pelican came in about 2 weeks ago so I didn't have an excuse not to get going. I felt like a surgeon putting this thing on.

After one rod install, I realize I still need more patience.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1287363780.jpg

Good man! I am getting ready to do a similar build. Steve in SoCal

So now I'm wondering how free should this thing turn (the rod, that is). It spins OK and it will fall under its own weight. Anyway, one down and five to go.

L

This seems to fall in line with Waynes book (you do have it , right?) he seems to stress that they all fall under their same weight but at THE SAME SPEED as more important. Did you do the plastigage test?

Crank complete!!!
 

Man, that took me forever. Got derailed because I might have to move again this summer. Anyway, they all fall under their own weight at roughly the same speed except one of the early ones I put on falls a little faster.

Next up the case. Ouch. That's a big step. So I'm looking at the P201 yoke and how to mount it on the right case half. Ollie's put new inserts in so the studs aren't there...yet.

Anyone have any gouge on how to put the studs back in?

Landon

just measure the boss on the trans where it goes through and add enough more for the nut and two threads. press on boldly! Steve

Thanks Steve.

Just did a forum search for installing studs.

Do the tranny studs go in finger tight?

Should I use locktite (red?)?

use the dual bolt method?

Safe to use the old ones or should I buy new ones?

Forum's useful but I didn't find all the answers.

L

bump

Landon,

I won't say these are the right answers, but this is what I did. The new inserts were deeper than necessary. I sunk 1cm in the case, using red loctite, and didn't need to use any nutting or anything else to drive them in. As I saw it you just needed them in the thread deep enough to hold on. The torque comes from the nuts on the trans side. I didn't have any old studs, so bought new. But I wouldn't have hesitated to reuse them if I had them. Those are pretty tough studs.

Mike