Newbie does an engine overhaul...

[levdeb]

Hey guys. So, I am "cleaning up" my 2.2 from a 1970 911T. The car has been sitting for 15 years. When he parked it, it ran like a charm. Obviously, I am giving it the once over.

Not rebuilding, but more of an aggressive tune up. Got Waynes book (and a Haynes manual) so I feel pretty good about it. Was also an F-16 crew chief in the Air Force, and those were air cooled as well... lol

Got the engine out. Carbs off (all stuck closed). Alt and fan off. Tin and shrouds off.

Ready to take off the heat exchangers, and it looks like all 5 of my 13mm sockets are too wide to fit down the tunnel to get to the nuts. Special tool time?

Also found a whole family off mouse skeletons. Kinda cool!

Anyway, anyone know of any secret to getting the exchangers off? I have a pretty complete craftsman tool set, but nothing "Porsche approved" I guess.

"Will he get it running again???" Stay tuned!

p.s. I am doing the following for sure. Did I miss anything?

Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, and points.
New gaskets
Zenith rebuild
Clutch redo (if needed)
Chain tensioner collars
Belt
All degreased and shined up (get that air flowing again)...































Also still selling off parts from that same 1970 911T here:
www.BillLeVasseur.com/911parts

[Steve@Rennsport]

JMHO,...but I would get rid of the solid chain tensioners.

Those were a bad solution to the problem as they do not permit the chain tension to remain uniform as the engine expands and those things really accelerate chain and sprocket wear.

[Flat6pac]

You will need hydraulic tensioners and a set of guards to go with them, good used is fine. You have mechanical tensioners there and they are only correctly set once in the heat cycle.
The 6 chain rails (slippers) supports need changing as the old plastic will break.
If it turns over, half the battle is complete.
The holes in the heat boxes are for 8 mm allens if the proper cap nuts were used.
A set of swivel 3/8 and 1/4 sockets is near manditory in the tool box
some goos red hot heat will help on the heatboxes.
Best of luck,
Bruce

[levdeb]

Thanks Guys!

Steve- I actually posted that last picture because I bought collars from a fellow Pelican, and wanted to see where they went. I popped it open, and was immediately lost... lol

And Bruce, thanks for the tip on the 8mm allen. I went and bought one, and was able to get 4 of the 6 loose (after soaking in liquid wrench all week), but the last 2 (of the ones down the tubes) are actually bolts! So, I still need to find a thin walled 13mm socket...!

The boxes look great from the bottom. Very clean and rust free. Excited to see the tops...

Appreciate it all!

[levdeb]

Oh, when we first got the car home, the engine was drained, and refilled with fresh oil, and then turned over. It tried to run, but the carbs were just too dirty. We stopped so we didn't ruin the engine!

[Flat6pac]

Just a thought, sometimes people use a 12mm copper exhaust nut because they are readily available from NAPA, etc
Especially, 12 mm socket will fit the holes or at least I have one that does.
Bruce

[levdeb]

Yep, the 12mm slid right down, and then didn't fit over the nut... grrrr!

The other bolts just popped right loose, so hopefully thats all a good sign that I won't have any broken studs to deal with....

Praying / Hoping Sears has a reeeeeally thin walled 13mm socket tomorrow....!

Thanks again Bruce!

[BURN-BROS]

There is a wrench supplied with SSI exhaust that is made like a distributor wrench from a Chevy. See if someone on the forum has one that can lend to you.

Also, can you place the socket on the nut and then feed the extension thru the hole?

Update those chain ramps! They will fail.

[levdeb]

So is this solid tensioner stock or was this already "upgraded"? Can I keep these and just update the ramps? Engine has about 78,000 original miles...

Off to find some swivel sockets!

[304065]

The solid tensioner is not a stock item-- they are used by racers and are a component of the rebuilding process when you want to keep tension on the timing chains for cam timing purposes.

When you put things back together, consider the following:

1) replace endless timing chains with master link chains-- may not be necessary

2) replace old-style idler arms with "wide" 930 bushed arms-- this is an expensive, but important upgrade to keep the idler arms from binding, which potentially causes jumped timing chains and engine destruction

3) Replace cam sprockets if worn

4) Replace idler sprockets and shafts if worn

5) Replace all chain ramps with modern versions. This is an inexpensive and important mod.

Over the years Porsche had a hell of a time keeping the timing chains in proper tension. They started off with a cup-style tensioner that filled with oil that dripped into the top. Then they went to a pressurized, sealed tensioner. Then they changed the idler arms, twice. Then they finally went to hydraulic tensioners. . . then with the 964 they completely redesigned the whole damn thing.

[eapcpa]

Try a 1/4 drive 13mm on those nuts. You can't get as much torque on them but if you use Craftsman and break a tool you can exchange it. I have a SSI tool that looks like a distributor wrench but you definitely can't get much torque on that. You might also try to fish the socket up around the exchanger and then put your extension through the hole in the exchanger. It is a pain though. Good luck with it.

[Number1_dog]

On the exhaust nuts, I used a long extension through the heat exchange hole and used a long surgical clamp to place the 13mm socket on the other side of the hole above the nut and mated the extension and nut. When the nut was off I just pulled the extension out and the socket pulled off.

[levdeb]

Wow... first of all, thank you BurnBros. Just when you think you know everything, the obvious jumps out and bites ya. Yep, the socket fit on the nut, and THEN the extension thru the whole... geez, how embarrassing!

So, headers are off. They look GREAT! No holes, or rust, just dirt. Looks like maybe the critters crawled in to the heads? Some crusty gooky stuff in there, but just about 1/2 an inch in. From there, everything looks good.

Sprayed the rest down with engine degreaser, and was going to pressure wash it (is that recommended??), and the exchangers, along with the transmission.

A fellow Pelican has offered his used but good tensioners that belong on the car. I have the collars already.

Going to order the replacement stuff now. Just want to make sure I dont ruin anything with the hose wash. I will cover the holes (intake and exhaust) as well as the distributor. I will wait till tomorrow to wash it, in case someone chimes in to tell me why I shouldn't. lol

Thanks all!!

Bill

[levdeb]

Originally Posted by john_cramer

The solid tensioner is not a stock item-- they are used by racers and are a component of the rebuilding process when you want to keep tension on the timing chains for cam timing purposes.

When you put things back together, consider the following:

1) replace endless timing chains with master link chains-- may not be necessary

2) replace old-style idler arms with "wide" 930 bushed arms-- this is an expensive, but important upgrade to keep the idler arms from binding, which potentially causes jumped timing chains and engine destruction

3) Replace cam sprockets if worn

4) Replace idler sprockets and shafts if worn

5) Replace all chain ramps with modern versions. This is an inexpensive and important mod.

Over the years Porsche had a hell of a time keeping the timing chains in proper tension. They started off with a cup-style tensioner that filled with oil that dripped into the top. Then they went to a pressurized, sealed tensioner. Then they changed the idler arms, twice. Then they finally went to hydraulic tensioners. . . then with the 964 they completely redesigned the whole damn thing.

Thanks for the list! I will add it to the parts request...!

[dhrcr911s]

Will be interested to see how well that area about 123 cleans up.. I hate mice..

[levdeb]

Just some basics so far: (engine and brakes)

Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total
--------- ---------- -------- ----------
911-355-905-02-M100 $11.00 1 $11.00
Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap, 911/912 (1968-73), 914-6 (1970-72),
Each Brand: Genuine Porsche

----------------------------------------------------------------------
901-355-631-01-M4 $15.50 2 $31.00
OEM Rubber Brake Hose, rear (sold per each), 912/911/911 Turbo (1969-
83), 914 (1970-71)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
901-355-632-01-M4 $14.00 2 $28.00
OEM Rubber Brake Hose, Front, 2 Per Car, 911/912 (1965-73), Each
Brand: Ate

----------------------------------------------------------------------
901-111-193-00-M17 $4.75 2 $9.50
Muffler Gasket (sold per each, 2 required), 911 (1965-74), 911 (1975-
76 CA Model), 911 (1977)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
999-085-001-02-M260 $2.75 2 $5.50
Exhaust Barrel Nut, 6 Per Car, 911 (1965-73), Each Brand: OEM

----------------------------------------------------------------------
911-351-938-00-M168 $16.75 2 $33.50
Front Brake Pad Set, For Steel "M" Caliper, 911/912 (1965-73), Each
Brand: Mintex

----------------------------------------------------------------------
311-133-511-D-M67 $8.00 1 $8.00
Fuel Filter, For Cars With Carburetors, 911 (1965-1971), Each Brand:
Mahle Filter

----------------------------------------------------------------------
999-170-165-90-M14 $2.75 6 $16.50
Bosch WR-5-DC+ Spark Plug, 6 Per Car, 911T (1968-71), Each
- This item is non-returnable except for warranty replacement -
applies to books, posters, tools, and electrical items .

----------------------------------------------------------------------
911-602-928-00-M14 $20.75 1 $20.75
Rev-Limiting Rotor, 6500 RPM, 911T (1970-73), Each Brand: Bosch

----------------------------------------------------------------------
616-602-226-02-M14 $4.50 1 $4.50
Distributor Points (01026 - for Bosch Dist. 0 231 159 006, 007, or
008) 911 (1969-71), 914-6 (1970-72), 356B/356C (1960-65 w/Bosch 031
Distributor)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
911-602-933-00-M14 $15.50 1 $15.50
Distributor Cap, 911 (1965-77), 914-6, (with Bosch Distributor)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
901-107-203-09-M67 $7.75 1 $7.75
Mahle OC-61 Oil Filter, 911 (1965-71), Each

----------------------------------------------------------------------
900-123-118-30-M131 $0.50 1 $0.50
Oil Drain Plug Seal (22 X 27mm), Sealing Ring for Plug at Bottom of
Engine Sump Plate or Oil Tank, 911/911 Turbo (1965-89), Air Box
Sealing Ring, 911 (1974-83), 944/944S/944S2/944 Turbo/968 (2/1985-95)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
930-101-391-01-M17 $2.50 2 $5.00
Oil Strainer Plate Gasket (sold per each, 2 req.), 911 (1965-83)
Brand: Victor Reinz

----------------------------------------------------------------------
999-192-176-50-M21 $5.75 1 $5.75
Alternator Belt, 10 x 710 (Service-Free belt), 911 (1966-73), Each
Brand: Contitech

----------------------------------------------------------------------
10-0906-091-M260 $21.75 1 $21.75
Valve Cover Gasket Kit Complete With Cover Nuts & Washers, 911 (1968-
89) Brand: OEM

----------------------------------------------------------------------
930-105-192-04-M17 $3.00 1 $3.00
Cam Housing Cover Gasket, right, 911 (1968-89), 911 Turbo 1991-92

----------------------------------------------------------------------
930-105-191-03-M17 $3.00 1 $3.00
Camshaft Housing Chain Cover Gasket, left (1968-89) Brand: Victor
Reinz

----------------------------------------------------------------------
911-113-190-01-M17 $4.25 6 $25.50
Exhaust Port Gasket, 6 Per Car, 911 (1965-73), Each Brand: Victor
Reinz

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Shipping for Package 1: $FREE

WooHoo Pelican!

[Jerry1]

Very interested in your build. I have a 69 2.0 long block with zeniths that needs to be built. Good luck

[euro911sc]

Those steel sump plates warp beyond imagination... I think I have filed mine flat a dozen times and it still leaks. You might consider an AL one.

Put duct tape over the intake and exhaust ports before you clean anything up. Rags are fine for keeping bolts and washers out, but you are going to be doing some serious cleaning.

I would not pressure blast it too hard or at all. Use the engine degreaser and some low pressure water to clean the big stuff off. You can do a home soda blast on it after the big gunk is gone if you have a decent sized compressor.

After that it might be you and a tooth brush making friends again. Gun barrel cleaning utensils also are good. Try to use only plastic based bristles.

I also use scentless mineral spirits. If you use a citrus based cleaner make sure you wash it off thuroughly! It does not play well with the AL parts. After the water use your compressor/blow-off gun to dry the engine off in places you cannot reach with a rag/paper towel. Evap. water leaves spots and stains on AL as you probably know and there are several steel based things that could rust.

Enjoy!

-Michael

[rsrfan]

Also, go to Home Depot and buy a couple cans of 3M adhesive remover spray. This stuff is like magic and will remove the cosmoline like a hot knife through butter...

[t6dpilot]

Subscribed. I too had a very dirty 71T when I first got it and dropped the engine and transmission for cleaning. Powerwashed the complete underside of the car and then the engine after spraying tons of Gunk on the greasy parts. The power wash did wonders on the chassis and was OK on the engine. But my engine was still intact whereas yours is not. I would not power wash that engine - degreaser and very hot low pressure water with a variety of plastic bristle brushes.

Good luck. Will enjoy watching your progress.