Also,

I agree with you on the 1194. That stuff, seemed to of set, to quickly for comfort.

I was a little bit surprised.

I also used a very minuscule amount of 574 on webs.

Although, I installed my heads first using the cam shaft housings as a dry fit guide, in order to be quick enough for the Curil T, not to set up on the base gaskets.

Then I installed the cam housings and made sure the cams turned freely.

I'm really glad I did it this way, especially with the Lubro Moly entering in to the mix.

Mike.

Leakproof - you case is spotless. My wife has been pretty tolerant, not sure she would embrace the case in the living room. Also, if you carried the short block up a flight of steps you are much more of a stud than me.

Actually, the tech data sheet says curil-t is non-hardening and requires 5-10 minutes before parts are pressed together. I probably didn't wait that long, so hopefully, it won't impact the seal. I did the same where I kept spinning the camshaft to confirm the towers weren't sealed.

Greg,

I was not aware of the 5 to 10 minute protocol on the Curil T.

I just read the directions on the box and came up with that working time.

Spent a lot of time getting the oil off the base gaskets, a real P.I.T.A.

My fifteen year old daughter, helped me carry the engine up. I'm not that much of a stud. But thanks.

Oh, my wife wouldn't be so lenient about the engine in the living room, if it wasn't for the fact that we never use that room, and this is basically the only room not remodeled yet. Ugly indeed!

Thanks, and have fun installing your rockers and cams, plus timing.
I'm still in the process of waiting for my re-built rockers and pitted right cam to be repaired.

Are you using the rocker shaft seals?

Mike.

I've always wanted a reverse drill set for these jobs.. I've hear 8 x out of 10 the stud will come out as you are drilling it.

"I've always wanted a reverse drill set for these jobs.. I've hear 8 x out of 10 the stud will come out as you are drilling it."

Sound very possible. I wish I had thought about reverse drilling at the time. It's still a delicate procedure, but if the stud came out half way through the drilling, it would been much cleaner and easier to complete the removal.

Cam timing question. It took me a few hours to get comfortable with the process, but I am pretty confident I got it correct. Here is my question. The rebuild books states on page 166, column 1, paragraph 2, last sentence, "The dial indicator should reach it's desired value just before the "Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line."

I did not experience this. I had to turn past Z1 to reach the desired value, then pull the cam pin and turn the crank counter-clockwise to Z1. I assume the difference is because of the exact starting position of the cam. Had I been one or two degrees further in the rotation, I would have reached the desired value prior to Z1.

I have double and triple checked my work and am getting consistent values in spec. Plus, I verified that 1 and 4 are opposite each other. Does this sound accurate? Is there some anal retentive step to quad check? Thanks.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1269114018.jpg

I have one more question if anyone makes it this far into my post. As I rotate the engine by hand, the right side chain seems to creak or make a slight binding noise at one specific location. The tensioners are not in the car, the idler arm is held by a C-clamp as in the above picture. You can hear the noise, but there is no physical resistance - nothing you can feel in the breaker bar on the pulley.

Any thoughts?

I found the source of my chain noise. It definitely is an alignment issue between the chain and the cam sprocket. I measured the sprocket alignment, but didn't have the Stomski tool, so used a straight edge. The idler sprocket and the cam sprocket misalignment are causing the noise. You can also see the chain is not lying on the chain guard correctly. It's riding high on the ribs.

I don't get it, nothing changed. I didn't even have any work done on my cams and I reinstalled with the exact washers that were removed. Oh, well. I need to stop and disassemble a little. It would be a huge error to continue.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1269118248.jpg

Make room, idiot at work here. Right sprocket on backwards. Thank you Cgarr. I left Craig a voicemail and he was kink enough to call and PM me.

BTW - I never publicly thanked him for the beautiful job he did on my heads. I sent them to him looking really bad and they returned like new. Guides were completely toast, intakes were bad too. He does quality work, quickly and at an extremely fair price. If I forgot to mention he was honest, he is honest too. There are a lot of great service providers on the board, but Craig's a great guy. Highly recommend him, search on cgarr.

Good catch Cgarr.

After I had everything put back together I was reading about the cam sprockets and PANIC set in of course it was 1 AM and wasn't going to be able to sleep. Thought I had put one on wrong. I took a huge amount of pictures both on tear down and during the rebuild. Started looking through my pictures and low and behold they were on correctly. Take pictures of everything going back together just for "peace of mind".:cool:

Just spin the crank another 720 degrees back to Z1 and verify that your dial indicator still has the correct reading. My cams did the same thing, I didn't get the correct movement until after Z1 so I ended up removing the pin and just leaving the crank on Z1 and rotating the cam backwards until it hit the mark. I noticed when I set the timing on a 2.7 it worked exactly like Wayne describes in the book but when I set SC cams I saw the same thing you did.

I rechecked the timing this morning, a week later, as a final check. 1.24 on the 123 bank and 1.18 on the 456 bank, so I declared victory and moved on. Chain covers and cam lines are all installed. Rockers and valve covers next, then I will be sealed up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1269738047.jpg

I am still plugging away. I was lacking a tool that gave me clearance to torque the rockers. I found the answer from my friend Search - I'm good now. Ordered one of these and will use it and a 1/4 universal connected to a 3/8 adapter and my 3/8 torque wrench. Won't be perfect, but better than guessing....I guess.

Also, sent my injectors to WitchHunter. I mailed them via the good ole' post office on Thursday before Easter, the 1st. I got them back on Wednesday the 7th. I'm in PA and they are in Washington state. I was really impressed with the turn-around. I don't see how they had them more the 24 hours. I posted my results.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270743546.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270743566.jpg

Didn't know I was racing you...
 

Greg,
I'm getting my heads back early next week so I wanted to brush up on any posts on the topic and found yours. (Nice work my friend!!!)
I will be excited to see your completed project...so get crackin!!! LOL
I've included a handful of pics of my own project (82 911SC 3.0) for your enjoyment.
Needless to say my project is in your "Rear View Mirror"....good luck!
My Project Summary:
Went to do valve adjustment....found broken Divlar Head Stud...Spent lots of money (your welcome Wayne)....Spent hours cleaning... found out I had "Alusil Cylinders".... Called Budweiser and asked them to increase beer output after first attempt to remove broken stud.... removed all Divlar Head Studs ...took two Advil....waiting on heads to return.... : )

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270868345.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270869354.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270869427.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270869507.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270869568.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270869647.jpg

Final Photo is just a teaser of my cleaning efforts...
I'll share more when I catch up to you.

Thanks for sharing. It looks like you are moving right along. Your pace is probably faster than mine. I was only able to get about eight hours in this weekend, but I am really getting close to the end. I got the rocker shafts torqued and adjusted my valves, then got the intake back on the car. I need to finish up the fuel rails/lines/injectors, sheet metal, blower and a few other items. My goal for next weekend is to get the engine off the stand and mated with the transmission. I really hope this car starts and runs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271024515.jpg

Truly an inspiring thread. I plan on the same task this winter. Keep up the good work.

Greg, love the polished fan, most I do is glass bead it and clean um up. Looks like spring is on the way in, in P-burg.
Bruce

I actually polished the fan by hand with fine sand paper and some steel wool. Fan treatment (paint, clear, etc) is almost a religion. I ended up buying some Gibbs and treating coating it a dozen different times.

I have be close the 200 hour mark at this point. Lots of small items to address, and it seems like always one more thing to clean. Injection system, sheet metal, fuel lines, etc completed today. I am really close, maybe another half-day, then attach the transmission.

I NEED to finish. I have a host of other projects starting to pile up, plus my yard is calling me. I really hope I get a shot at starting it next weekend.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271556976.jpg

Greg,
I looks great...good luck!!!!

I spent about two hours addressing the short fuel hose coming out of the bottom of the fuel regulator. See link below. I have to get the motor off the stand, install the exhaust, attach trans and back it goes where it belongs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/537511-fuel-reg-short-hose-solution.html#post5302570

Hi Greg,

Did Cgar find any conclusive evidence, in particular #4, on the valve guides or valve seats?

I am looking to purchase an 89 coupe with similar results on leakdown, except the bad one is #5 at 14% loss. The mileage is 99k, similar to yours. I agreed to purchase based on proper repair (replacement of valve guides) and a close inspection of #5. I am encouraged, though, that you didn't find anything wrong with your #4.

I should probably have the mechanic open up the case to replace the intermediate bearings as well. How did you know you needed to replace those?

Great thread by the way. You did one hell of a job. :)

Thanks,
Alfonso

I don't think it is realistic to have someone open up the case to replace just the intermediate bearings. I think we call that a rebuild. ;)

Ed, I hear what you're saying, but I would try to do as Greg has done with his engine. If things are in spec, then just put it back together so that it can run as is for 2 to 3 years.

It would be kind of a punt, if you will. In 2 to 3 years I would want to do things right, maybe do 3.4 or 3.5 rebuild like on your Ruby. Maybe even install PMO injection. Ti con rods would be the cats meow!! Ahhhh, back to reality. Need to get my 911 first. :)

My non-professional, personal opinion is that if it aint broke, don't fix it! I'd say it is more like a Hail Mary than a punt-lots can happen when you open up a case.

Alfonso - I don't know what caused the poor leak down on #4. I don't think bad guides would cause it. The only thing I can think is that one of the valves was too tight and not fully seated. I have my own leakdown tester, so I will recheck before I put the motor back in the car and post the results.

The intermediates are generally showing brass on 3.2s with mileage (+50k). Is it necessary to split the case to replace them? Well, that's up to the individual, your budget, time, future plans, etc. The main advantage to splitting the case is to confirm the condition of your crank and mains. If you don't have documentation showing your car was well cared for its entire life, you don't know if it was run with dirty oil. I look at the crank and bearings will answer that question. I was told that if the mains are good, the rod bearings are probably good, so I didn't touch the rods.

All of your decisions are probably dependent on what you are going to do with your motor. I don't track my car, so my motor has a comparatively easy life and I chose to only address my most pressing issues.

Thanks Greg. I look forward to your update when ever you get around to it. I know your fingers must be itchin' to put this thing back together...the weather is just beautiful down here in Texas, should be up there too.

Ed, I guess there are two schools of thought when inspecting critical components. The first and most common is open it and replace/repair what you can because you're there.

The second is open it, check things out and if in spec AND if it was working fine when you took it apart, then put it back together right and it should work as good as before.

I used to always subscribe to the former. But recently I took a new job and have been working with an old foggy of an engineer, and he definitely subscribes to the later. We work on multi-million dollar machines, compressors and turbines, with slightly more complex bearing systems. This guy has been at this one plant for 34 years and has established an impressive track record with putting these machines together and the machines will run for years, just as they are supposed to. So, if it works for those machines, then it should work for a porsche engine.

I am new to this school of thought and don't know much about putting porsche engines back together, but I cant wait for Greg to get his car going. I'm betting it will run for a long time. :)

Top End and Reseal - Done!
 

Well, six months and probably 200 or so hours, I am done. I was relishing all the last minute tasks that actually prevented me from facing D-day, but I knew today was the day. Cranked the motor to build some pressure, then stuck in the plugs and DME. It started almost instantly. Minor amount of smoke. I ran the motor at 2k+ per Wayne's book, but after 5-7 minutes the temp gauge indicated that motor was nearing previous normal operating temps. From this point I took a relatively brief drive following Motor Man's formula of 1/2, 3/4 and full throttle blasts to 5k rpm (which Wayne supports). I ran the car for another 15 minutes hard on and off the accelerator. By the time I got back home, there was no visible smoke from the exhaust. One hour after returning home, no oil drops under the car - feeling pretty good right now.

I would have never attempted the project without Wayne's book which organizes the project nicely, and the support of the board. Hard to thank everyone, but would be remiss for not identifying Flat6pac and Cgarr. Also, thanks to the some of the people that assembled killer threads like CBRacerX for The Complete Engine Sealant Thread, and all of the professionals that have shared their secret sauce.

Here are a few photos of motor coming off the stand, then into car and finally in car. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273282360.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273282383.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273282417.jpg
Thanks again

Congratulations Greg. Job well done!!

The final product is what you wanted, polished and clean and you know whats there, it doesnt get any better than that.
And in time for the summer.
Congrats,
Bruce

Awesome job Greg!!! Great inspiration!!!

Greg,
Awesome job!!! Inspirational for me with my first rebuild coming soon.