Rocker shaft bolts install direction

[mkc1962]

I'm in the process of reinstalling the rocker arms and shafts, after a cam tower reseal. Though the manuals state 11 ft lbs on these bolts (when new), Ive read and agree with the 18-20 ft lbs that many suggest.

The manuals also state that the bolts need to be installed in various directions, but Ive not seen anyone here much mention such. They were in various directions when taking apart. The biggest dilemma I keep reading about is the fact that if not torqued tight enough, they will have a tendency to walk and or leak. As I have the oil cooler off as well as rear shrouds, its quite easy to have a 3/8 drive long extension with the proper allen socket on the end, fished through the rocker bores and make that torquing alot easier. BUT, all the bolts would have to face rearward.

Is there any reason why the bolts cannot do this? To me as long as the shafts are properly centered, and torqued proper, it shouldn't matter which way the bolt faces.

Opinions?

[Flat6pac]

The install requires that the 5mm side of the bolt is inboard so if you need to move later you dont have to cut down the height of the 5mm allen to loosen and tighten.
The shafts locate to the thinner boss side and the top is above flush with that boss.
Part of the rocker adjustment is seeing that there is no lateral movement in the shafts as that becomes an oil leak.
Bruce

[E Sully]

Are you installing the rocker shaft seals, part #99-0579-052-M260?

[mkc1962]

Bruce,

Thanks for the reply. Yes I would have to agree, that without a cut down wrench, IF an adjust is done during routine valve adjust they are easier to reach if mounted inboard. As I have probably 2 dozen or so cutdown or welded up wrenches of all shapes and sizes for unique situations that part doesnt bother me.
I was just curious is there any reason why they cant go either way? It does appear that many state they are near impossible to properly torque due to there unique location. I figured I can atleast get mine torqued right while the engine is out using my idea. IF they need a readjust later, the cutdown wrench is no issue.
Just wanting to make sure there is not some oddbal reason why a bolt cant be installed either way.
I gotta wonder why someone has not designed some sort of keeper for both ends of the shaft so it will atleast not walk.More tightening to resolve a leak is understandable, but a walking shaft could prove damaging if not caught in time.

[mkc1962]

Sully,
No was not aware of them till just last night. I wasnt having any leaks there prior to terdown, With all the cleaning Ive done, and with proper torquing, I suppose I'm hoping to be atleast in as good a shape as I was prior.

exactly what are these seals? tiny orings? where placed, on the slits that are cut in the shaft? reason I ask is I have an assortment of several thousand orings. If thats all they are maybe I have similar.

[Flat6pac]

They wernt used for years and generally properly torqued cross bolts will keep the shaft from leaking.
Bruce

[E Sully]

They are just a little extra insurance against what air cooled engines do so well, leak oil. Probably not necessary, but when I rebuilt my 3.2, I used every sealant tip I found to avoid any leaks.

[jwasbury]

Originally Posted by mkc1962

I gotta wonder why someone has not designed some sort of keeper for both ends of the shaft so it will atleast not walk.More tightening to resolve a leak is understandable, but a walking shaft could prove damaging if not caught in time.

Turbokraft has these rocker locks...probably what you are asking for...$360

osCMax v2.0 : Rocker Locks [901 105 360 TK] - $360.00

[mkc1962]

Flat6...well that kinda what I thought, and mine surely are torqued tight at 18-20.

Sully, Oh I understand, and normally I'm the same way..but Ive read so many that have said torque em right and they rarely will...maybe if I ever pull it again I will

JW..havee to give that link a look see...I just figured someone might havee designed something...weren't really looking for them at this time.

[88-diamondblue]

I did mine to18 ft lbs and used the rocker seal/washers and have had no leaks. I got my seals when they were fairly cheap $32.00/set as compared to what they are now at $96.00/set.

[Walt Fricke]

The engine obviously doesn't care which way these go in.

Me, I install them with the small wrench end toward the flywheel. That is the easiest way to install them with the engine on a stand, and the easiest way to remove them when you do the next teardown, using suitable extensions. And #1 and 4 intakes are the first you install.
And you don't need a torque wrench small enough to work inside the cam carrier. I wish I had one of those anyway, but have never seen one at a reasonable price given its infrequent use.

On those infrequent occasions when I didn't get one tight enough (I remember once), the Allens alone were adequate. Ditto for field replacement of a rocker (typically broken).

Fact is, I seldom have to use the big wrench, though I have a cut down one. The cone shapes seem to provide a lot more friction than does a nut riding on a nice flat washer.

[mkc1962]

well, its all back together, and running great. Took it on a 100 mile road trip yesterday. Parked it in shop over white paper last night. NO LEAKS. Not even any obvious weeps either. Put it on ramps today and looked real close in all the obvious areas, of course base of cam tower and around heads due to topic of this thread. So far so good. I guess I'll know for sure when I get around to the next valve adjust. Just for the record, I torqued the rocker shaft bolts to approx 20 and no rocker seals. Installed all With the 5mm pointing toward the flywheel. Thanks again for all the input.