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-   -   stripped head stud barrel nut//can't get it off (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/520746-stripped-head-stud-barrel-nut-cant-get-off.html)

rgdtoo 01-10-2010 01:41 PM

stripped head stud barrel nut//can't get it off
 
As the title states I stripped one of the 10mm head stud barrel nuts on the exhaust side while trying to remove the cam.

Any suggestions how to get it off?

OldTee 01-10-2010 02:52 PM

Don't know, but maybe weld the nut to the stud? Drill thru the stud straight down? Is there something like a nut crusher?

4sd911 01-10-2010 05:13 PM

Stripped the threads or the hex head?

rgdtoo 01-10-2010 05:27 PM

The hex head

4sd911 01-10-2010 05:40 PM

You will need to jam something in there to grip it, maybe a torx head? Just don't beat on it to hard.

Flat6pac 01-10-2010 06:12 PM

Get a 12 point like on the flywheel bolts, although that one is too big, and jam it in. You really need heat so you can get it red hot so it will let go.
Bruce

rgdtoo 01-10-2010 07:55 PM

First, thanks for the info. I am assuming you mean heat the 12 point until it is red hot jam it in there let the heat transfer then try to pop it loose?

Is that right?

rgdtoo 01-10-2010 11:38 PM

After re-thinking your suggestion I took a propane torch and heated the other stubborn hex nuts loosening them one by one. In spite of that I now have three completely rounded hex nuts and one on the verge. Four out of eight, not to good.

Rather than a torx head I tried an easy out. It dug in then spun.

I am going to try again tomorrow after my frustrated level calms.

Any further suggestions are greatly welcomed.

Thx, Bob

tom1394racing 01-11-2010 01:20 AM

If you are talking about the stubborn, rusted nuts that hold the heat exchangers on....Use a small Dremel to cut through the nuts enough so that you can use a chisel to split them.

Rick B 01-11-2010 05:48 AM

I just went through this process with a lot of help from guys on this site. Most recommended heat, but I was too much of a chicken to light a torch in the garage where I was spraying PB Blaster like aftershave.

Here is what finally worked for me: Drill holes in the stud / nut using the drills that came with the easy-out set from Lowe's. Tap the easy-out into the stud. Use a socket extension to drive the easy-out as it disappears into the heater box hole and cannot be turned with a wrench or vise grips. I had to wedge tye-wrap plastic into it to allow me to extract the easy-out and the extension once the stud came loose. Use the longest breaker bar available to put torque on the stud while pushing down on the stud.

Swear creatively.

Walk away when you get the urge to smash the heater box with a large hammer.

It took me about a week to do this. A real porsche mechanic probably could have done it quicker.

Final score: five barrel nuts came off normally, five studs came out, two studs snapped and will require work by the machine shop.

Rick

Geronimo '74 01-11-2010 07:39 AM

I used a dremel tool, didn't even damage the thread... (more luck than skill)

rgdtoo 01-11-2010 03:30 PM

It is the 10mm allen head hex nuts that attach the heads that I am wrestling with. I figure I will try heat and the easy out again. If that doesn't work I will try drilling out the stud enough to pop them off.

Thanks for the additional input. I'll keep trying.

Bob

tom1394racing 01-11-2010 06:40 PM

You could remove the cylinder cooling baffles and the oil return tubes to gain access to the head studs and then cut through the stripped one with a Dremel to fee it up.

rgdtoo 01-11-2010 07:09 PM

Thanks for all the help.
It was the heat that did the job.
Heat and the easy out combo.

The down side; now I see the damage done.

As seen in my over revved post.

Anyway thanks again,

Bob

Walt Fricke 01-14-2010 07:09 PM

While you resolved this small part of your problem, here for your future use and the good of the order is my tip for rounded internal hex bolts or barrel nuts (if you can't access their outsides):

Use a punch or small chisel to distort the sides of the hex. You can pound enough of the metal you stripped away, plus what was always there, back in to the point where your hex tool will bite. You may have to pound the tool end in, but that is all to the good, as you are reforming the hex.

This can be especially useful on these head stud barrel nuts, because often when torqued the end of the stud gets awfully close to the top of the nut, leaving little to grip, making rounding easier, etc.

Walt

john walker's workshop 01-15-2010 10:53 AM

check out this old post. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/305024-how-remove-stripped-head-nut.html

Henry Schmidt 01-18-2010 01:33 PM

Another great reason for using Supertec Head Studs.
The nuts will never rust to the stud and the 12 point nuts will never strip.
They are available from our host.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1263853988.jpg


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