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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 726
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Spray bar plug replacement
OK, I should of just threaded the hole and use a threaded plug, but I didn't. Tapping the cam tower spray bar plugs back in was more like hammering them in. I had to hammer them pretty dam hard with a 1/4" punch just to get close to flush, the first began to mushroom, the second didn't mushroom but still needed some serious beating to get down. I did get them both counter sunk but not by much, not the 0.3mm the book states. Should these be that hard to get down? I used permatex aviation to seal them.
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04-05-2010, 10:12 PM
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3.4 Bigger is better
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 1,497
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Mine required a lot of force to get them in. Sounds pretty much the procedure as I did with mine. Looking back it might have been good to heat the cam tower with a torch before hammering the plugs in.
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Michael 88 911 Diamond Blue CE Carrera 3.4 HC3.4 member 2020 Honda Passport |
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04-06-2010, 07:08 PM
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Agree that heating and freezing the plugs would probably cause less headache. I'm going to be turning down a couple plugs for my cam tower here in the next week or two. if you're thinking about pulling them then let me know if you need some and i'll make a couple extra.
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85 (early) 944 78 sc targa "The fool who wades in doubt will float like concrete" |
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04-07-2010, 07:12 AM
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 726
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There in place now so I'm good with them.
ETA: thanks for the offer. Last edited by 4sd911; 04-07-2010 at 08:14 AM.. |
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04-07-2010, 07:35 AM
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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So how did you pull them?
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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04-08-2010, 06:22 AM
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GAFB
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
Posts: 7,842
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This is sorta low-tech - but I hunted for an appropriately-sized sheetmetal screw on my bench. I held it up to a new freeze plug to see how deep I could go, and marked the depth of the plug on the sheetmetal screw.
Then I center-punched the existing plug in the cam housing. After center-punching I drilled a guide hole, and threaded in the screw (stopping when I got to my previously-set sharpie mark) . Lacking a slide-hammer, I locked a big pair of vice-grips to the head of the screw. Then I hammered on the 'elbow' of the vice-grips to knock the screw and plug out. Very easy. I actually did this to an engine on the stand - if you knock out the rear plugs, it is possible to remove the spray bars and clean out the cam housing. Complete removal was not necessary.
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Several BMWs |
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04-08-2010, 10:59 AM
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3.4 Bigger is better
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 1,497
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Drill them out, then I screwed the bolt in and used the top nut to extract the plug.
 
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Michael 88 911 Diamond Blue CE Carrera 3.4 HC3.4 member 2020 Honda Passport |
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04-08-2010, 07:33 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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+1 for what Michael did. Though I used a socket instead of the big nut he used. Same principle.
Though next time I may just use my slide hammer. Drill, screw, slide out. Instead of drill, tap, reverse press out. Might save a few minutes. Though my plan is to use 1/8" aluminum pipe plugs, at least in one end, to make all this easier. Guess that would be the flywheel end, hadn't thought of that until Dave mentioned it. Though I am not sure when I would want to pull the spray bars short of a full rebuild, as in refreshing rod and main bearings, etc. |
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04-09-2010, 08:47 PM
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