What sort of power and torque are you seeing out of 2.8 with the sprint cam, assuming carbs or MFI and not slides?

Cheers

Kenikh

Actually, the 8mm stem valves I have weigh less than stock 3.2s do. And intakes only 6g more than the stock 2.7s I have been running. Ti retainers, of course.

Sounds like I should add the RSR Sprint grind to my list of candidates, along with the GE100, the Webbcam 171/149, and something from Camgrinder.

As to dyno sheets on Henry's 2.8SS, I think many have asked, but none have answered. Perhaps all will be revealed in Excellence. You can't fault an engine builder for holding some of his information back.

Walt

The 2.8 Slider was built over seven years ago and I no longer have a sheet on it.
Sorry guys

I'd recommend doing what I do with every engine build: call John Dougherty.

When I need a cam, I tell him:

• My bore and stroke
• My static compression
• Type of heads/valves/retainers I prefer to use
• My port specs
• My induction type
• Where in the powerband I want to make peak power

He'll then give you a laundry list of stock and custom grind cams. He will work with you to tweak lift, ramp speed, lobe spacing and durations to create a cam perfectly tuned to the details you give him.

For example, when I was building a 2.3L ST inspired motor, told him I was OK with using Ti retainers, wanted 'E' like torque and 906 top end power...a tall order, given I wanted 100 HP/L potential around 8000 RPM with grunt. I mentioned '69S heads, CNC port work @ 39mm I/E and asked him to build me a dream camshaft.

He custom ground me a set of DC44s on 102 lobe centers...this was before they became a regularly stocked item on his site :). These cams ended up being EXACTLY what was specced: Velvety low-end torque, with the engine going completely bonkers from 4500 RPM to 8000 RPM redline (peak HP falloff ended up being exactly at his estimated 7800 RPM).

The 2.25L motor made...drum roll...225 RWHP on its first dyno run, with a torque band that an 'E' motor of similar displacement would be envious of and top end power that is nearly the equal of a 906.

Call John (aka "The Magician") :cool:

One car I know of got 249 RWHP on 46 PMOs, but a restrictive muffler and exhaust was a limiting factor, as was jetting and timing when the dyno run was completed. The car runs stronger now, but has not had a dyno run since the latest tuning.

Today, it feels like an honest 275 RWHP, which is in line with Henry's quoted 300HP for the Red Sled, given the other car's induction and exhaust disadvantages:

Wild Porsche Engine

GE 80 vs 906
 

Old thread, I know. -but maybe someone can share his opinion with me on the best cams for my engine.
Ok, the choice is not to big as I only have two cams to choose from . GE 80 and 906.
My engine is a 3,0 with 10,3 CR, 41 mm inlet port, standart SC Valve size, headers, open exhaust, ti-retainers, Eibach springs and MFI with 50 mm butterflies. I use the car for tarmac rallyes...

Many thanks, Malte

forgot the twin plug and 102 octain pump gas...

the 80's are better than the 906's.

Thank you very much for your fast answer!!!

MFI Adapter
 

I have another question...

Is the part I need to connect the mfi drive with the camshaft an original part? Difficult for me to explain, but attached is a pictore of how my camshaft end looks like. And I think I need a kind of adapter for this???

Thanks, Maltehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387321513.jpg

Yes you will need an extension out the back of the left side cam. I make them, but they are rough on the outside dimension. I bolt them on and grind them concentric to the rear bearing journal. (less likely to leak)

http://drcamshafts.com/drive.jpg

Hello John,

thanks again! I just saw by the name that you built the cams I bought (not directly from you).
My problem is not only that the cams are already installed but also that I am in germany.
Is there a chance that you make it without the cam and it will not leak oil, or is it worthless?

Those must be 6 or 7 years old? I cant get that type of blank cam anymore. The ones I have now come with the mfi drive. There is a chance I have a used cam here with the same back side. If I do it might be possible to make the drive, unbolt it and bolt it to yours.

On the parcel is a sticker that you sent it to a guy called Jay Kjoller. There is no date, -I bought them here on pelican some month ago...
It would be great if you can check if you have a used with the same end which you can use for making the gear- otherwise it looks like I am having a problem.

I have a sample cam to work with. If you can, please measure the depth from the end of the cam to the inside surface where the drive will bolt to. The one I have here is .240" deep.

Great! I have 0,250

I just sent you an email with some questions

Got it and responded.