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BobnJoz
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: northern ca
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2.2 E rebuild and back firing?

I rebuilt this 2.2 L engine (with 46 Webers) that never ran when I got it so it's unknown how/if it ran OK. I did a valve job, rings bearings and carb rebuild. First start up was rough and lots pf popping, like on 3 cylinders. I had an oil leak behind timing gear so I took it apart and repaired it. Reset cam timing on that side and put it back together. Also, installed new Faucet fuel pump at this time (remember, I have carbs). Now, still very rough and a healthy back fire every 2 or 3 seconds out the exhaust. Very difficult to keep running again, like on 3 or 4 cylinders. Reading some other post, looks like late ignition or timing. Could it be the cam timing slightly off from one side to the other? Plugs are dark. Carbs have 50 idle jets and I've gone through some basic adjustments for first start-ups.
Any ideas or directions I should try first? Plugs or plug wires? I have a 2.4 T that runs great I can swap parts from....
Thanks for any ideas.
Bob

Old 07-13-2010, 03:57 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nash County, NC.
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46 Webers are too large for a 2.2. You probably dont have enough venturi action to suck the gas off the float bowls
check the cam timing. Proper set cams, the engine has to run mechanically.
Bruce
Old 07-13-2010, 04:49 PM
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BobnJoz
 
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Opps, my mistake. I have 40 IDT 3C Webers. Not sure why I had 46's in my head.
I will check cam timing today. Could be this. There was some time between timing the right side and re-timing the left side.
I will update when I have more info.
Thanks.....
Old 07-14-2010, 09:59 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Portland Oregon
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Hi,

Assuming for the moment that the cam timing is spot-on, make certain your Facet fuel pump is not one of the small square solid-state ones.

Before you touch the carbs, make sure that all of the ignition components are in perfect condition: plugs, plug wires & connectors, cap, rotor, points, and its timed right to spec.

Then its time to check fuel pressure and make sure its 3.5 psi. After that, you'll need to check float levels. This is also the time to remove all the jets, floats and blow everything out with clean compressed air as thats the main cause for your symptoms.

Only when these steps are all done can the engine respond to adjustments.
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Steve Weiner
Rennsport Systems
Portland Oregon
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Last edited by Steve@Rennsport; 07-14-2010 at 02:58 PM..
Old 07-14-2010, 11:01 AM
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gearhead
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Loverland, CO
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When you've completed all that Steve has mentioned, you may find this thread useful...

Weber rebuild
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:42 PM
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BobnJoz
 
Join Date: May 2000
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Thanks for the responses. I just finished checking cam timing. To me, it looks pretty close. .220" on left side and .199" on right. I know my specs to be .197 to .213 (or 5.0 to 5.4 mm) for a 2.2 E. So, maybe the left side is off by .007" or .003" is to much difference from side to side. Is that to far off? I read were a guy fixed an oil leak behind the timing gear (same as mine) in a walmart parking lot on the way to a track event. He put the timing pin back in the same sprocket hole and said it was fine. Seemed a little vague so I thought .007" from spec was pretty accurate.
I have swapped wires and cap with my 2.4T and no difference. I only know a visual inspection of plugs and rotor. Appear to be in good condition. I will check points. The link Matt sent mentions that 55 idle jets may be to small, that 55 or 60's may be needed (per John Walker). Carbs are freshly rebuilt but I do not know float levels. I did see raw fuel splashing up from one carb before the oil leak fix and before the new faucet fuel pump (I was trying an mfi pump from a 2.4S with MFI). This is the small square fuel pump. Is it wrong? I was told by the after market Porsche shop that it is correct and the salesman had one on his 2.7 with webers.
I think I need to order a float tool next. I have a broken arm now and very difficult to work on this with one arm.
Thanks. Bob

Old 07-14-2010, 02:23 PM
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BobnJoz
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: northern ca
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Update?

I just found a new discovery. I have no fuel pressure showing on gage. I thought it was a bad gage since I've had 3 different pumps on this and has never shown pressure. I swapped with the gage on my 2.4T and gage works on that car. I have a return line back to tank. Could that cause a pressure loss?

I have also ordered a float gage from our host. Want to make sure everything is perfect going forward.

Also, my cam timing is .007" off on one side. (or .003" difference from one side to another). Is this to far out of spec?

Thanks
Old 07-16-2010, 10:42 AM
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You can live with the cam timing. I cant in my mind convert inches to mm but seems youre in the park...
Bruce
Old 07-16-2010, 04:38 PM
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BobnJoz
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: northern ca
Posts: 660
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Bruce,
I'm happy to hear that from you. I just calculated (with a converter website) that my .220" converts to 5.588 mm. And spec is 5.4 mm.
Waiting on my float gage.....
Thanks

Old 07-17-2010, 04:38 PM
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