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...and my blue mistress
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Chain tensioner collar, does this look right?
Hi guys,
Not wanting to start a tensioner war over this but I am using my 930. tensioners on an engine build I'm doing and am just wanting to know if this is how it is supposed to look and how it is supposed to be in relation to the collars. I installed them the way the instructions said... extended all the way out, put in the spacer to get the gap, then tighten them up. When I have them in place in the pictures they do compress pretty much all the way down to the collars. The chains seem plenty tight enough but I am just wondering if they are supposed to do what you see below or if maybe I need to rebuild or replace these things. They are hard as a rock otherwise and the only way I can compress them is in my bench vise. Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! ![]()
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Robbie 1976 Carrera3.0 1978 928 5spd |
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Max Sluiter
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Generally, on a rebuild using new parts, you do not install the collars. After driving a few hundred, the break in wear will relieve enough tension that you can put the collars on without the tensioner piston bottoming out on them. You do not want them rigid.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nash County, NC.
Posts: 8,468
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You want 4 or 5 mm between the top of the tensioner and the bottom of the tensioner guard. That way, in the winter and when the engine is cold there is some room to have everything shrink. With expansion the tensioner will get longer but in failure you want the guard to support the tensioner to keep the chain from jumping time.
The guard, in failure, becomes the mechanical tensioner. Bruce |
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...and my blue mistress
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thanks guys
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Robbie 1976 Carrera3.0 1978 928 5spd |
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