Suggested DIY Engine removal using 2-post lift

MarkRobinson · 12-06-2010, 12:10 PM

My 4-post lift will not allow for an engine removal in my garage, so I'm using my buddies lift.

I used it before for a clutch job but was with a friend who lives out of state now & cannot recall what we lowered the engine onto once it was removed.

I'm swapping long blocks so I'll request an engine stand yoke from my buddy so I can have the leverage I need to swap the intake/exhaust from the two engines.

So, engine onto "something", then something onto an engine stand once the transaxle is removed. Anyone shed some light??

Thanks!

Mark

fastfredracing · 12-07-2010, 04:50 AM

I don't lower the engine out of the car, I just support it on a big jack, with jack stands, and blocks of wood under the he's to help balance it then I simply lift the car up off the motor and trans. Easy peasy. You will have to lower and angle the motor/trans slightly and pull rearward slightly to clear the shift shaft, and once you are clear of the body, up you go.
If there is no one there to help you lift the motor up onto a stand, and you do not have a cherry picker, you can chain the motor up under the car onto one of the lifts " legs" and use the lift to get the motor up and on to the stand.
You will love doing it this way.

OldTee · 12-07-2010, 05:51 AM

Transmission jack makes a good transport device once the engine is loose from the chassis. Use care which one you buy. Mine is a Sears with a long handle that lowers almost to the ground. A regular hyd jack will work too but the engine is pretty tippy.

OldTee · 12-07-2010, 05:57 AM

Like this:

OldTee · 12-07-2010, 06:00 AM

Better picture.

MarkRobinson · 12-07-2010, 06:58 AM

Ok guys, that works. that's pretty much what we did 7 years ago: lifted the car off the engine, but I think we used a rolling appliance dolly (carpeted 2x4's with wheels)

OldTee · 12-07-2010, 12:29 PM

Yup, Horrible Fright has those for $10-20 range.

euro911sc · euro911sc's Garage

dollies don't work as you cant get the jack in the middle of them. You then need two, one per heat exchanger. Its really not worth it. I use a single jack. I fashioned a 'U' shaped piece of 2x6's that fits the bottom of the case and avoids the sump plate. Its marked for the center of the jack so the eng+trans are balanced or just the eng is balanced. When you find that spot the assembly is pretty stable.

Disconnect all stuff and lower the engine down. Then raise the car. It is very helpful to also raise the front to reduce the angle of the car. You have a lift so that's really nice! Pull the assy. out from under the car. Just be nice and gentle and dont go running the jack like a 100 yrd. dash

If I need to use the jack I have a bunch of 1x12x16's cut. Stack about 6 on each side of the engine and lower. If you are separating the trans put a milk crate under the trans., unbolt, and slide crate+trans away from engine

Its all cake...

Use the jack and raise engine up after bolting mount to it and slide mount into jack stand. This would be a larger 'U' shaped stand as the 'T' shaped stands suck and you would need a crane or 2 big friends to help you. With a 'U' stand you can do it all alone in the dark. You may find that your jack does not go high enough. Put another 2x6 under the one you fashioned to meet the case and try again.

Best regards,

Michael

-Michael

jpnovak · 12-07-2010, 02:44 PM

A hydraulic lift table works great if you are pulling the engine from a lift. Once the engine is disconnected simply lower the car on the lift, position the lift table, lift to load table, remove mounting bolts then lift car off table and roll away. The lift table also works to raise the engine high enough to put on/off an engine stand.

the HF version is about $220 for the 1000# capacity.

edbaus · edbaus's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpnovak

A hydraulic lift table works great if you are pulling the engine from a lift. Once the engine is disconnected simply lower the car on the lift, position the lift table, lift to load table, remove mounting bolts then lift car off table and roll away. The lift table also works to raise the engine high enough to put on/off an engine stand.

the HF version is about $220 for the 1000# capacity.

+1 on the cart.

If you are doing it on a lift, a metal rolling cart works just as good too.

I have one that is a bit higher than the HF hydraulic lift cart. The taller the better so you can get under the car. Then, just use the lift to raise the car off the motor.

Ed

Mark Henry · 12-11-2010, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edbaus

I have one that is a bit higher than the HF hydraulic lift cart. The taller the better so you can get under the car. Then, just use the lift to raise the car off the motor.

Ed

I agree, I have about a 40" high cart.
For getting it off the cart I also have an overhead crane, but a standard engine hoist would work. In a pinch you could rig up a cradle to fit one side of you car hoist to lower the engine off the bench.