Displacement VS Oil Cooling

jjemg · 01-03-2011, 12:59 PM

There is a great deal of great conversion about how to increase the HP but what I need to know is at what point do I need to think of additional oil cooling.

What I will have to work with is a 69 T 2.0 from a 914/6 and do not want to put any extra cooler but need to deal with deep south summer temps.

My thoughts was to find a counter weighted crank and get some new LN cyls and the JE's for 2.0 in E spec and get the cams for the E and let her go with the 140HP or so.I have no real experience with test and try so.
I would really appreciate some advice on the thought that I have from people that have done this before.
BTW; I will be keeping the 185 SR 15's so really big HP I don't want.

tadd · 01-03-2011, 01:58 PM

The factory added the fender cooler at 170 hp, so that is considered the tripping point.

Why swap out the non CW crank? There is nothing wrong with it for to quick pops to 7.5k. L&ns cool much better than the birals and are an excellent choice (mine are 92 mm). Stock rods and better bolts.

You might want to think about going with S pistons, and a mod solex cam. Regardless, It is worth while to go twin plug while it's appart. Just install the second plug and put the stock lower covers on until you want to spend on the ignition. Its only $400ish and will be there when your ready. Significant future proofing for poorer octane fuel.

t

jjemg · 01-04-2011, 04:11 AM

If I go with the S pistons I will be close to 160 HP and my be pushing my luck with the cooling in AL. My goal is to keep the oil below 210 or so.
I have thought about the crank. It would spin up a lot faster. The thing that has been troubling me is the reason the factory used counterweight cranks with the E's as well as the S. I was thinking I was missing something.
One more question ..How about the early heads that I have? Do I need to think on the 70-76 heads with the dome change or will the early ones be OK for street driving?
I appreciate the advise tadd

safe · safe's Garage

If you go with new piston and cylinders, go as big as you can and with valve pockets that can handle an S-camshaft. You can always choose a milder camshaft and change it later if you want to.
I have a friend who has a 2.4 s-spec high compresion engine ~190 hp, I would guess. He has no external oil cooler. It's also about how you use the engine not only the hp.
BTW why not add an external oil cooler?

jjemg · 01-04-2011, 03:58 PM

The reason for not adding the cooler is that it is an original 6 without any modifications.The 69T engine that was put in.. 110hp and a little sluggish for a Porsche.
I have been looking for a 2.2 to use without any success. There are lots of cores but I want one that is built in the resent past. I have talked to 1/2 dozen people on this board and the engines don't meet my needs so the next thing is to build my original number matching case with only a moderate HP increase so I don't spin all over the road with the narrow tires. Also everything from the top of the air cleaner to the heat exchangers will be original with this minor change that I am planning.This will only be a street car and not driven a great deal. I have a conversion 6 for all the mods I can think of.
Thanks for the thoughts Magnus. I think I will look for the 70-77 heads after your comments. This will be a great improvement without noticing

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

I agree, go as big as possible for the same price. Bigger displacement with the modest cam like a Solex or mod Solex. . Also avoid unusually high compression.
The "greenies" are going to kill the gas as time goes on. Someday if not already they will discover the best way to get old cars off the road is to lower the octane.

As for the cooler:
We encountered the same issue (didn't want the modify a genuine 6) so we added this cooler which handled well over 200 hp.
Get a spare engine lid from a salvage yard so you can keep the original lid for resale if needed.

jjemg · 01-06-2011, 03:44 AM

That's a great idea Henry. I have an extra top that I could modify so that would be an easy fix and give me some peace that I would not be changing the car up to much. Is one going to the tank and the other going to the factory hard line through the hole?

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjemg

That's a great idea Henry. I have an extra top that I could modify so that would be an easy fix and give me some peace that I would not be changing the car up to much. Is one going to the tank and the other going to the factory hard line through the hole?

It's even easier than that. We just used a sandwich plate between the the tank and the oil filter. I think it cross references with a Dodge 318.
Absolutely no modification to the chassis at all.

5:04 · 01-06-2011, 03:57 PM

Henry, you just made my day haha

jjemg · 04:23 PM

That would make it a hell of alot easier to change the filter!