A Shadetree's 930 Rebuild
 

So I'm about to embark on my first engine rebuild. The 930 gave up the ghost out of no where last season and its time to get her running again.

Figuring that I have a pretty steep learning curve ahead of me, and that others may be in the same boat, I am going to try and document: the rebuild; tools, parts and costs; and the challenges of getting a previously de-smogged 400+ hp 930 to pass California emissions (although I'm not holding my breath).

Not only is it my first rebuild but its also my first blog so bear with me.

Blood, Sweat & Broken Gears

I'll be using Wayne's book as well as the collective knowledge here on Pelican extensively.

Good luck with the re-build point to note replace as much as your budget will allow head studs being one of the main items....

I'm with you on that. Thanks Davy.

Good Luck Rob!

I'm much in the same boat as you. Just now starting reassembly. I'll definitely follow your thread.

Thanks Targa... good luck with the reassembly and check back into the blog and let me know if you've got any good lessons learned that I may be missing as I progress.

Blood, Sweat & Broken Gears

Having a camera handy during the tear down will help, and save a lot of time - but dont start without Waynes book - has heaps of good pics.
Cam tensioner blocks, piston orientation etc etc.
With waynes book, it is definitely do-able. Allow yourself plenty of time (months not weeks) unless this is a fulltime task.
Dont rush anything. It is a mission to have to go back in there for some stupid annoying glitch.
If you get it right first time, it will start on first turn of the key and you will be one very happy guy.
Alan

+1on Alan's suggestion. The older I get the worse my memory. I took a picture of every part before and after removal. (digital cameras are great!) I must have taken around 150 photos.

Waynes book has lots of excellent pics. But you will be surprised how often you get stumped trying to work out the orientation/sequence of a bunch of washers, tensioners etc.
I got stumped trying to figure piston orientation once and it cost me many hours. And the cost of getting it wrong doesnt bear thinking about.
Alan

I am completely on board with you when it comes to the camera. I have a ton of pictures just from my first day with the motor. A couple odd ball things I found are below: Deterioration on the injector blocks and wear on the fan housing from the pulley.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PP9vXUkUjD...+Blocks+v2.JPG

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2EVOE7G8xf...Housing+v2.JPG

Something else that I ran into on a couple of the hard oil lines was that the fittings that attached to the engine seemed to have been locked up. I was always under the impression that the intended design allowed you to spin the fastener while keeping the hard line stationary. two different fittings were locked up to the point where I had to detach the opposing end of the line and then spin the entire piece to remove it from the engine. Is there something I can soak these in before re-installing so that they work as intended?

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RAgp0rTmeK...nes+Ind+v2.JPG

It looks to me like the fitting you have circled is the one that attaches to the cam tower. What you should have done is attach 2 open end wrenches to that fitting and while holding the larger fitting still in the cam tower break compression fitting, (the smaller nut) free. This leaves the larger fitting in the cam tower and eliminates the need to rotate the oil lines.

For the uninitiated, what book are you guys referring to?

Thanks.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: BK-135124

Thats what I thought and I gave that a go but it felt as though I was on the brink of forcing it too much. At the end of the day its off now but thinking ahead to re-assembly I'm thinking of maybe soaking the entire fitting in liquid wrench to see if I can't free it up a bit. Any concerns over that approach?

Thank!

Throw out the Liquid Wrench. Buy a product called SeaFoam Deep Creep. It is amazing. Soaked my exhaust nuts with it and removed them without heating or breaking a single stud. Had a couple of piston squirters that were plugged. Gave them a shot of Deep Creep and in 2 min. they were flowing free.

Sounds good. Thanks.

What are people using as a flywheel lock for the 930 motors. I've got the lock mentioned in Wayne's book but it doesn't work with the 930.

thanks

Unless the starter gear ring is attached to your flywheel the porsche flywheel lock wont work. (made the same mistake myself) Look at page 30 of Waynes book. There's an example of a fabricated flywheel lock from flat stock.

I think thats what I'm going to do... just wasn't sure if there was a commercially available unit.

Thanks again Targa for the continued feedback.

Piston / Head Damage
 

Heads and cylinders came off this weekend and I found broken rings on three of the pistons. On the corresponding heads and pisotns I found some damage. Curious to see thoughts on what may have been the cause and what the potential solutions may be.

A couple of the heads have pock marks on the inside surface. Is it possible that these are the result of small fragments of rings being blasted around inside the combustion chamber? On the pistons that had broken rings it also looks as though certain portions of the smooth finish and edges have been worn away leaving a porous surface.

Thoughts and opinions are appreciated.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298264229.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298264245.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298264274.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298264325.jpg