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Broken Head Stud Flush with Case
Hi guys,
The nightmare continues. I pulled the engine to remove the broken lower head stud. While there removed all the lowers as I did not trust them as I was doing this one sheared off right flush with the case. So question is can it be drilled out, note have already blunted carbide tipped bits trying so guess the answer is no. So next I guess is EDM removal if I go this route will it come out clean? The broken stud is on #5 rear most. I am tempted to just replace all the ones I got out rebuild and drive with one missing but really dont want to do this as I will probably cause even more damage!
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Davy 82 911 SC Targa Sold 12 Audi A5 Sportback 3.0 TDI Quattro 03 996 C4S |
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02-15-2011, 03:36 AM
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Do it right. Going on the cheap to save a few hundred will end up costing you a few thousand when you destroy something.
It is a major ball buster I know. When I bought my ported/machined heads they came with the old exhaust studs still in them. Youd think for 2250 he would change them... So I have the jig, and 4 have snapped off. but done right is the best way. I have no choice as I have thin flange SSI's so the stock 50mm studs wont work. You need titanium bits not carbide at a minimum. Buy one of the $9 bits instead of the $4 dollar ones and see if it makes a difference. Depending on what you have it may be difficult.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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02-15-2011, 06:49 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Yamhill OR.
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We have removed them like that by grinding a bolt to a blunt point and tig welding it to the broken stud. Then heat the case to release the licorice and have backed them right out. It works very well.
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02-15-2011, 08:17 AM
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Location: Stuttgart & Miami
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02-15-2011, 08:29 AM
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An EDM machine will take it out cleanly but very expensive and a last resort in my opinion. Try either what Turbo nut suggested with the bolt, or I have set a nut over the broken stud and welded the inside of the nut to the sheared off stud, the heat helps loosten the stud and you can just spin it out with a wrench or socket. This has never not worked for me (and I had access to an EDM)
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02-15-2011, 09:27 AM
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If you have rounded off the carbide tipped drill bits it is most likely not running them fast enough. Carbide tipped or solid carbide drills will drill through much harder material than regular HSS or TiN coated drill bits, they just need higher speed and are much more prone to chip.
Titanium Nitride is only a coating that is added to regular HSS or cobalt drill bits to reduce some friction and heat, a quality set of uncoated drill bits is better than a cheaper set of TiN coated drill bits. Just my $00.02 |
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02-15-2011, 09:54 AM
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Location: California
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A left handed drill bit might help here. As it drills it will tend to
unscrew the stud and you might be able to back it out that way. andy |
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02-15-2011, 02:13 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nash County, NC.
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Davie, You re getting a lifetime worth of experiences with this engine.
Bruce |
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02-15-2011, 03:54 PM
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Ok so today carted the long block to a good local engineering shop they tig welded a bolt to the stud and it backed out with minimal effort. So tomorrow on to cleaning up and re-assembly woohoo....
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Davy 82 911 SC Targa Sold 12 Audi A5 Sportback 3.0 TDI Quattro 03 996 C4S |
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02-16-2011, 06:15 AM
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Cool (or Magic) as you boys would say down there, glad to hear it worked.
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02-16-2011, 07:55 AM
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Quick update got the engine back in the car today and she fired right up first turn of the key. When I did the cam overlap this time set it at 1.38mm both sides vs the 1.29 I had previously, it seems to have made a difference to the low rpm driveability of the car she seems much more responsive at low rpms now than before. Oh and I also had a few small vacuum hose leaks which have helped. Car is running strong and appears none the worse for the head stud debacle....
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Davy 82 911 SC Targa Sold 12 Audi A5 Sportback 3.0 TDI Quattro 03 996 C4S |
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02-21-2011, 08:39 AM
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Congratulations Davy! After all that aggravation it must feel great to be back on the road.
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02-21-2011, 10:31 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nash County, NC.
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I did a 3.0 8.5 CR and the settings was 1.68 and 1.7. Makes the low RPM more responsive.
Bruce |
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02-21-2011, 04:39 PM
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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[QUOTE=Daviboy;5847548]Hi guys,
The nightmare continues. /QUOTE] Look like its finnaly over... Happy motoring.
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Who Will Live... Will See  83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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02-21-2011, 04:42 PM
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Bruce well that will explain that then mine is a 9.8:1 3.0L with 964 cams as I am sure you are aware. Have heard so many people give this set up a hard time but hey it works for me. My car is not a track racer just a graceful old lady whom I want to see survive another 150,000 miles so she will be driven with compassion and care with the occasional foray into the the higher rpm's....... so today is detailing day its gonna be hot 30 deg C so will spend some time falling in love again in the garage, just know the wife is going to love that
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Davy 82 911 SC Targa Sold 12 Audi A5 Sportback 3.0 TDI Quattro 03 996 C4S Last edited by Daviboy; 02-21-2011 at 08:10 PM.. |
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02-21-2011, 08:07 PM
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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Quote:
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Who Will Live... Will See 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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02-22-2011, 01:06 AM
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Misty
Porsche 911 Carrera Targa
Das Babe
Das Babe Metalberiech
