Pelican Parts Forums - 911 T 2.2 rebuild

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- - 911 T 2.2 rebuild - 1971 (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/595821-911-t-2-2-rebuild-1971-a.html)

There is a longer oil line available for this. I may have an extra one if you need it.

This is the part number for the correct oil line... but it's not cheap at $48

10-0224-107-M260

The other option, like on that previous picture is to use the hollow union bolt that is designed to go through the block that holds the pressure sender and find a sleeve (like in that picture) that fits the bolt. Then you can just use to standard sealing rings and you're set. That bolt is $15 or I'm sure people have these sitting around.

911-107-709-01

I'll take some pictures of the correct oil line and also the hollow bolt in the morning.

Jbell959 - You have a PM.

I have the hollow bolt , still too short. I will need a longer oil line , or an adapter like Flieger has on his line.

Here is a picture of the standard oil line (top) with the hollow bolt connected to it. That hollow bolt goes through the block that holds the oil pressure sender.

The second line (bottom) is the longer line for use without the hollow bolt & sender block. For some reason these are sold without the ferrule and nut but they are available through Pelican or any parts house.

Another option, if you have a hose shop near by, is to have them replace the hose with a slightly longer one. I can measure the difference if you want to do that.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321308614.jpg

Someone with a lathe and some hex Aluminum or brass ought to be able to whip out an adapter right quick.

I ordered another through bolt from our host - the one in the pic above is way longer than the one I have. Looks about size.
Thanks for your help!

Nothing comes easy

One header slipped on , the other one is totally misaligned. Bending the pipe in does not help , as the holes still does not line up with the studs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321760669.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321760752.jpg

I had the same problem with a set I had. I ended up spending a couple hours heating and bending the pipes before finally getting it to fit.

Marelli distributor

New rotor for Marelli ordered from the UK. Will have to see if it fits. I have a Bosch dizzy on standby , but it needs some work.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321854032.jpg

Starting to put the harness back on .

What is this called , and what is it's function ?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1322202290.jpg

That is the microswitch that activates the speed switch to turn off the fuel when you are engine braking above about 1500 rpm. It is just one link in the system so having it installed may or may not result in the system functioning properly.

The RPM transducer is commonly broken or missing. It is usually just some broken wire leads on a couple transistors. I repaired mine but I had an oscilloscope and function generator in the garage and my Dad is an EE. The MFI and carburetor versions are different.

The RPM transducer is in a silver box on the engine electrical panel. It receives 12V power and a signal from the distributor so that it knows what RPM the engine is turning at. Based on that info, the Speed Switch will decide when to send 12V to the microswitch. When the microswitch has 12V to its leads and the throttle is closed, the throttle arm hits the microswitch and closes the circuit, allowing the 12V to flow to the shut-off solenoid which pushes the MFI pump rack to a position that stops fuel from being dispensed from the injectors (not enough pressure to open the pintles I guess, maybe not full shut off). When the RPM drops below 1300 rpm with the throttle closed the RPM transducer will quit sending 12V so the solenoid releases and the engine gets more fuel. It then picks up speed to 1500RPM and the process repeats until you are back on the gas.

Not sure exactly how the carb version works.

It's the carburator's idle switch. It is used to activate the enrichment circuit of the Zenith's. If You've plugged the enrichment circuit You can leave it out.
luca

Fliger, we've posted at the same time.
On the carburators there is a solenoid that opens the circuit and allows more fuel/air if the throtthe is depressed (switch activated) and the rev's are above 1300. Below that the solenoid should close.
luca

Prof Max - thanks !

To my understanding I can therefore eliminate this ? I will plug the enrichment on the Zeniths as Luca proposed.

I would go with what piggdekk says since I am not familiar with carbs.

Now that I think about it there is no way you can shut fuel off to carbs. Just to the bowls.

I guess Porsche repurposed the microswitch.

yes if You plug the enrichment there is no reason to keep the switch, the solenoid and the RPM transducer.

It took time , heat , and other support , to get these fitted.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323134284.jpg

Elecrical connections

Bosch 0 231 184 001

Who should I trust to make a Bosch 0 231 184 001 dizzy compatible with my 1971 2.2 ( now 2.3 ) engine ? The shaft needs to be machined to fit.