Post rebuild issues clutch and alternator

[Mik4]

Hi all
I really don't want to be a drag for all you knowledgeable rebuilders who give your time helping others who currently have niggling issues you once had, so I have trailed through bulletins and tech articles trying to solve my issues but haven't stumbled across a solution yet.
So I hope some one can give me a little advice, or point me to a thread that discusses these issues.

I have recently completed a light rebuild of my 2.7 S, basic history, when I bought it the heads were off on one side so I had never seen it running, but was told it had major oil leaks and damage to the heads. I spoke to the local benevolent porsche guy who upon learning it was my first rebuild boosted my confidence by saying I should have it sorted in about 3 attempts.

So four years of the engine sitting mostly in bits in various parts of my garage I finally got some time to address the issue.
I stripped her right down replaced all seals and bearings, scratched the liners and put her back together.

I also did a light rebuild of the alternator while I was at it, new diodes bearings and a good clean out. The guy who did that for me ran it up and said she was a good little alternator.

Now I have shoehorned the 2.7 back into the 1975 engine bay I have a few issues.

1. The alternator light glows and wont go out, the charge on the battery is 12.5volts when engine not running, and when engine running. It seems the little blighter is not charging. I checked the wiring, there are conflicting diagrams in the various info sources I have but I believe I came up with the appropriate wiring, had the alt in and out about 4 times, after I got the engine in. Anybody else had this problem before and can offer some advice?

2. The clutch doesn't work, I was stunned and amazed that the engine fired up first time, after requisite turning over dozens of times without spark, checking for leaks, worrying, etc. but then the problems started, I put my foot on the clutch which is very heavy but she doesn't disengage, I tried adjusting clutch and did it again still nothing, I put her in second and started and stopped her a few times while driving round the car park. I put her in gear drove round the building about 20 times until the engine was warmed up, changing into 3rd and back again without clutch, braked repeatedly still the bugger wont release.
I have read a bit about this on this forum but most of the suggestions so far don't shake it loose. And I am struggling to understand what is actually going on in there.
The flywheel was good and clean when I put it back in, there was some corrosion on the splined shaft and it was difficult to get the gearbox onto the engine, I think I have jammed the splined shaft into the splined hole and the little bugger wont float, is there only one way the splines can go together and may I have got it wrong?
I am slowly making a psychological adjustment to the necessity of removing this engine taking the gearbox off and polishing that shaft, I really don't want to do it so if anyone can give me any suggestions that would be much appreciated.

3. Starting cold is a problem, it has started from cold, but generally I have to spray a bit of CRC 5.56 into the airbox and she fires up with no issue at all, she doesn't idle until she's hot so I guess whatever provides the mixture enrichment isn't working too well, can anyone advise on that?
Once its been started it will start again no problem even if shes still cold.

4. I have a short peice of 1/4 inch rubber tubing that is left over and I can't figure out where it goes its bent right back on itself and in total its about 10 inches long, I cant find any reference to it in the manual, anyone have any suggestions?
I wonder if its not connected to problem 3 above.

motivational picture below, thanks everyone for your time

[lindy 911]

It sounds like you may have not mated the clutch fork properly with the throw-out bearing when you put the trans and engine together. It's probably riding against the pressure plate and not disengaging. A volt meter on the output wire on the alternator will tell the story there.

Lindy

[brads911sc]

+1 Lindy. This is a common mistake.

Slide engine away from trans. Pull fork out so that it is lined up with TO bearing. I shine a light on the hole in the side and look in the top hole to do this. As you slide it on shaft look in the top hole with the light on side hole and use a long screw driver to tweak the fork so its just right. If you have your engine on a table lift it is quite easy. wont take you more than 15 minutes.

If you dont have a table lift, Id buy one. $229 at Northern tool for the 600 Pound one. Its a miracle tool. I can install an engine myself in 20 minutes with no helper with one of these. Sure beats the jack and blocks of wood. Makes pulling your engine an easy task.


Good luck.

[Flat6pac]

I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but the clutch fork, if its not in place, may well be bent beyond use. The distance between top and bottom fork is 75mm on a good fork, 80mm on a destroyed fork.
Lower the engine and use a mirror on the drivers side of the trans with a flashlight shine into the portal on the top side of the trans and you can see the throw out bearing and the top finger in place. If its not there you have to split the engine a couple inches until, with the clutch arm, you can move the fork to the TOB. Get it on and close it back up. If your clutch works you won, if it doesnt you need to pull the engine and change the fork in the bell housing. Reinstall, seeing the fork in the TOB

Bruce

[Mik4]

Wow thanks guys
I knew something was amiss but I hadn't come across this problem before, thanks for the recomendations, those table lifts look awesomely useful for this job, Ive actually been using a 5 tonne forklift which is kinda the same thing, just a little more brutal

Heres a picture of the mystery tube Im trying to place, any ideas?

once again thanks for everybodys time

[Mik4]

You guys were all spot on, I dropped the flat6 back on the floor and seperated the gbox, realligned the fork and put the engine back in and now it works fine.
While I had it out I removed 3 broken exhaust studs which were f type, one came out with a welded nut the other two I had to drill out, I made the mistake of trying to use a stud extractor, which broke off inside the stud so then I had to dig that out by drilling little holes around it then using the sharp end of a pair of fencing pliers.
The new problem I have is I cant get it into second, It'll go when its stationary but cant shift from first to second or third to second, from searchin the threads it sounds like all my graunching trying to get it into second without a clutch has flimsied it and so now a shaft adjustment and replacing the shift linkage bushes is in order, I'll give that a crack, I like the sound of brass bushes in there.
I'll let you all know how I get on.

[Flat6pac]

You probably have to adjust the length of the connector in the back seat. The clamp forward of the swivel in the tunnel. You want the knurled under the clamp to pull the trans shifter further out of the trans so adjust accordingly OR put the trans in first, loosen the clamp at the swivel and move the shifter further toward the dash, tighten then try second engagement running.
Bruce