I got the cams timed today with the help of a friend. We had two gauges going at the same time. Just to confirm, every 360 degrees one side should be on the number you want, then in another 360 the other side should be there. At one point we had them so that they were both coming up at the same time which I believe is incorrect, and meant that one of the cams was 180 degrees off.

Yes, the cams are 180 out from the other, every 360 on the crank puts one at TDC and the other is moving.
Bruce

Great thread. This is just what I needed. I am about to tackle a rebuild on my '81 SC...

Moving right along. You gotta love the tuna can.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310518807.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310518844.jpg

Let's hope it runs well for many seasons.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310768173.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310768217.jpg

Well done guys!!! That right there is a thing of beauty, wow!

I'm green with envy, that's the build I want/need to do on my RoW SC!

Any dyno results? Are we expecting around 220-240hp @ the crank? More prehaps? ;)

Hope you have many years of track joy and trouble free use out of that bad boy!

Cheers
Jason

Something in that range would be nice, but it is bone stock so I'm not expecting anything miraculous. I was at 181rwhp before the rebuild, and that's with the straight pipes shown.

What is the current wisdom on break-in oil? I did a search but there's nothing recent. Some were using the oil they plan to run (20W-50), others 10W-30, others Castrol straight 30 weight, and a few were using Brad Penn. I'm talking specifically about the first twenty minutes after which it will be discarded along with the filter.

If you buy a pulley half for a Carrera it doesnt have the outer section for the air pump belt. Everything is easier to put together.
Bruce

If the Carrera pulley half makes it easier to get the outer shims in place then I will definitely buy one. I have the hardest time keeping the pulley flat against the belt to keep those shims from falling off before I get the nut in place.

When youre handling the outer shims, put some grease between them to keep them together. Still get a Carrera outerhalf 930.106.209.02
Bruce

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311024312.jpg

What exhaust is that?

Thanks Bruce.

1 5/8" European Racing headers with megaphones by George Narbel. Straight pipes are great for a race car, but are way too loud for a street car.

Have you dynoed it yet??

I would be interested to se what the HP is now.

Nice clean build

Michael

It's not in the car yet. I removed the motor and tranny that were in there today, and I am going to install the rebuilt one tomorrow. I need to rent a hoist first though to get the motor off the stand and onto my jack adapter.

I will be going to the dyno as soon as I get some miles on it. It is bone stock other than the exhaust so I wouldn't expect to see any amazing numbers.

Agreed, and for me the results will be a base line for a solid built stock spec Euro 3.0l.
As I will be rebuilding mine soon enough and can use these #'s as a baseline to build on....

Again, beautiful build guys!

It turns over but won't start. I don't hear the hum of the fuel pump like I normally do so I'm thinking that might be the problem. I reinstalled the relay after the initial turning over of the engine to build oil pressure, and installed a new relay with no change, so I'm not sure what's wrong. It is a fairly new pump and it was working well with the spare engine I was using. I must have missed a connection somewhere.

Run 12 volts straight to the pump. Lifting the airflow sensor doesnt produce fuelpump?
First though, The starter wire, yellow on the top and yellow/blue on the lower connection, if its not that way it will shut you down.
Bruce

When I lift the airflow sensor with the key in the on position I hear the pump start running and I hear fuel making it to the engine. On the starter, the large yellow wire is on the upper spade and the yellow/blue one is on the lower spade. The starter is cranking away but the motor just won't turn over.

Don't panic.

First you say the engine turns over, but won't start and you think the fuel pump isn't running.

Next you say that with the key on, and the airflow sensor plate lifted, you hear the fuel pump (which is as it should be).

Then you say the starter cranks, but it isn't cranking the engine over?

1) It is easy to interchange the cold start valve electrical connector with the fuel pump interlock connector. However, since raising the sensor would not cause the fuel pump to run when the plate gets lifted if you had done that, that's not the problem.

2) If it will crank over, but isn't starting, it is hard to know if the fuel pump is running, at least if you do this by yourself..

But cranking ought to move enough air to raise the sensor, which would open the microswitch back there, and allow the fuel pump relay to turn on the pump.

I think, but haven't looked at the schematic in quite a while, that the start position of the ignition key also bypasses the interlock to turn the relay on, etc.

3) Easiest tests: a) pull a spark plug wire and see if you have spark while cranking. While you are at it you could see if the spark is coming at about the right time.

b) If you have proper spark and timing, pull an injector, and see if it squirts when cranking. If you have the CIS pressure tester rig, you could just hook that up instead and see how that all looks.

Some recommend purging the fuel lines of air by raising the sensor after everything has been drained/apart. I suppose you have done that as part of the test you did. However, I've never bothered, and my engines have eventually (and after not too much cranking) purged themselves.

Do you have a popoff valve in the airbox? Good place for squirting some starter fluid to see if you can get it to cough.

The timing is one thing I haven't done anything with, nor have I ever set the timing in the past, nor do I even own a timing light. They always set it at the dyno. The book said to install the distributor with the nut "hand tight", then during the part where it talks about starting the car, it says to refer to 101 Projects for instructions on setting the static timing. Those instructions talk about setting the timing while the engine is running. How do you know where the timing is set if you haven't run the engine to set the timing? Where is it set if you just throw the distributor in there at TDC? :confused:

The fuel pump is definitely running when I manipulate the sensor plate, and I hear fuel coursing through all the parts in the CIS system. I did replace one badly corroded injector while I had everything off.