...

First of all, the engine run very strong, I took the car for a spin the other day and after 20-25 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm and very light load I started working a little through the gears. I ran approx 40 miles and engine is tight, there is a small leak in the right upper valvecover but that is completely the fault of the re-useable silicon gaskets I installed, 4-5 nm was too optimistic.

We fixed that with carefully torquing to 8 nm, I like to start with the lower bolts and do a cross pattern from center bolts and out. A friend of mine that helped out with the upper covers did not remember this but used the 4-5 nm as in the specs.

I am going to use mobil 1 for a short while but will drain and refill with BradPenn 20W50 soon (unless I can find a break-in additive locally).
The MFI is still not perfect but it is getting close, I have a new wideband meter from Innovative that is going into the car and that unit will help me with the final tuneup/clicks.

Mark, I bonded the bumper-brackets for the 68R a couple hours ago, the car is ready for paint in a week or so. I am considering putting in the engine from my 914/6 conversion or a 2.4T MFI engine I have for a while as I decided to change cylinders in the '67 blank case alu engine that is going into the "R", I was advised to change the cast iron cyls and it will be interesting to see what pistons they used in that build. I hope to finish the "R" this summer/early fall but I was happy to buy another 356 recently so perhaps the 356 will be finished first, it only need minor attention as it is dedicated for rallies (monte carlo 2012 and alike)
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...57coupe025.jpg

Tippy, I have had a discussion about the engine with Henry, no dead dogs there but this post was started to get advice about what seemed like a high crank pressure situation, I had to verify my own installation, my external oil circulation, hoses, get more knowledge about case circulation and so on. Engine is great, I did not start this thread to wash underwear. I'd have Supertec build me another engine anytime.

Great news teveo. Another 356! Your just having way to much fun.

Thanks, I look forward to getting the 56 Beehive and finish it in a classic road rally appearance.

I dig your outlaw, my 2.4T MFI engine would have been sweet in the tub, but i will be going with a pushrod S engine as I lost my shoehorn ;) ( and the FIA people would most likely spot a sixer in the tub)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3280/...218464c7_m.jpg
(photo is copyright Mark Jung ... its linked, not ripped ;))

Are your Speedster seats original or did you get aftermarket? Any links/advice to correct aftermarket speedster seats? TK Simonsen have the shells in Denmark, I know All Zim has the exclusive on them for the US but Denmark is just a 6 hour drive from me.
Simonsen 356

Anyway, Carrera breathing well, its a short Porsche summer over here and with a little luck and spare time I will be able to put miles on all cars this year. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo.../coffeecup.gif

Would love to see your progress on the 56. My seats are not original, Russ Rodriguez of Fibersteel made them.

The 56 is home in the garage, have ordered alu speedster seats for it and car must be weatherproofed. It is in "racing trim" and does not have window rubbers etc, basically unusable until I get some comfort in it.

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...T/DSCN1693.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...T/DSCN1696.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...T/IMG_0306.jpg

I started the 2.7 again, last time was 2 months ago, maybe 3...

It still has huge leak back from oil tank when parked. The manifolds and mufflers were wet, car smoked the road for 1 mile... like an old shot diesel truck. 2-3 minutes and all is stabilized, no smoke, correct level in oil tank.

The only possibility I can see is that engine case fills above lower part of cylinder and soaks the pistons, oil will seep by and into chambers and there will always be an open exhaust valve that can lead oil in manifolds and eventually muffler.

I am a little concerned about the mass of oil, when the pistons start splashing forth and back in 8-9 qts of oil (system hold 12 qt inc front cooler).

I am changing to castrol 10-40 oil this week, mineral oil for the next 500 miles to speed up break in, it could help on the leak through cylinders even if it does nothing to the leack back.

Trying to isolate, it seems the only way to leak would be in and through the feed line, the return line to the tank seem to go up and into the oil filter, a bleed back here does not seem possible.
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/91...ump_medium.jpg

I do have a front mounted oil cooler with a mocal, so my setup would be more like this.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1179328495.jpg

So far the only medicine is to drive the car more often, I would prefer to minimalize the leak back though..

The cylinders sit high in the case, anyone know how much oil it will take to soak the lower edge of the cylinders?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315212574.jpg

All your observations and ideas are correct. You could try running a little less oil in the tank (assuming no track/autocross). Best idea is to drive it every week. If you are going to store for a long time you could drain the oil tank or suck out the oil (put a flag on the steering wheel to remind you to refill the oil). None of this hurts the engine, it just makes for some smoke and maybe a drip.

-Andy

Trond ([i]teveo[/u]),

Since it has been so long, it might be useful to pump the fuel into another car and use fresh high octane fuel for your MFI tuning.
No sense complicating the issue with stale fuel.

While you have the valve covers off, it might be prudent to check the head nut torque.

Once you install the dino oil in place of the Mobile 1 (sooner is better as noted above), I suspect the oil seeping into the sump may reduce oil passing the clearances in the oil pump.
(What is the history of the pump?)

Occasionally, there is an incorrect dip-stick in the oil tank resulting in too high (or too low :eek: ) oil level.
Too high can exacerbate the oil in the sump.

I agree with Steve; do a cylinder leak test.
If nothing else, this will establish a baseline for future regular measurements.

Looks good for some upcoming fun.

Best,
Grady

The oil pump is the supertec modified SC with pump mods & venturi and gives a solid pressure. I have installed silicon head cover gaskets but have a minor leak so valve covers off and will retorque the heads when swapping to dino oil. I cleaned out the tank when converting to MFI and gas is 98 octane and only a few months old.

I spent a couple hours later getting the AFR in the "desired" range, ended up with 12.5 at 3000 rpm and around 14 at idle, need to get the fixed AFR gauge installed to do seat off the pants mods.

I noticed that the AFR changes with air filter on versus off, so snorkel went on and off between the clicks. Having read that the LM2 with the tail adapter is not to be fully trusted I am taking off the muffler and welding in a bung in the opposite side of the tailpipe. The bung goes in as described in this thread and the gauge somewhere visible from drivers seat.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/592242-correct-afr-where-install-bung-wideband-sensor.html

Will get a leak down kit and do that but would prefer to get out and running this weekend with dino oil and try to put 200-300 km's on the car first. I am running bradpenn 20-50w green oil now. I think it is part synth so its not optimal but I was out of cheap oil 3 months ago. I reuse the oil in my diesel powered box van, its not contaminated at all as it drains out between the oil changes.

Thanks again guys, I have both the roll bar and the corbeau driver seat in now and with a couple more adjustments and tests I hope that the Carrera will be ready for what it was made for.

I drove the car some 50 miles today, the new AFR gauge gave some interesting results.

After 20 miles I thought it was a little lean up and fat down so I richened the main rack 1 click and leaned the idle 3 clicks.

Idle is now around 12.7-12.9, when driving normally the AFR will jump around 13.5-14.8 (accelerate, cruise, decelerate etc) and as soon as the car is pushed it will fast go down under 13, I`d say 12.4 - 12.8, and further down at WOT, around 12- 12.2 from 3500 up to 5000 rpm.

At 70 mph "light" cruise it was more or less 14.1 not being pushed at all. I suppose that is normal? Btw, I have MSD 6 ignition and magnecor wires so it has a very healthy spark.

It is "pulling and pushing" a little around 2000-2400 rpm, I suppose that is the transition area?

Next drive I will use the LM2 instead of the gauge (or in parallel) and the rpm clamp so I can get some log files.

Are you using 10% Ethanol in your gasoline? That will effect the optimum AFR compared to pure gasoline.

No ethanol, I filled it up with 98 octane (europe). The car finally run well but I am not exceeding 5000 rpm for another 300 miles so I will have to wait with the "final verdict".

I tightened the banjo up around the left chain cover and finally got her tight, not a drip nor the annoying smell of burnt oil. I took the car home to use it more regular (its usually in my storage) and thats somewhat of a milestone.

Its time to fire up that gray/green '56 I posted pix of in this thread, almost had her running but 6 year old (US) gas may be too optimistic. One more recharge of the battery and a final test before old gas will be drained. It ran on fresh gas poured in the carbs but only 5 seconds of joy. (... not much valuable for this thread but its therapy after all the MFI problems/challenges.)

Some things in life are easy :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pH7RfZmnJBg

I have covered 150 miles with the car last week.

Its running good but transition is bad, I found more info here in the forum and it seems like I am running a little lean.

I will try to follow John Walkers advice and get the AFR to 12.5 at idle and 11.7 at 3000 rpm. He reccomends 5-6% co at idle and 7-8% co at 3000 rpm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316166584.jpg

With that kind of octane (98) you can get pretty aggressive with your ignition timing. CAREFULLY !!!
MFI engines love ignition advance. It seems to bring them to life.
Richen it up and dial in as much advance as she'll take without detonating. We have been known to run 36 degrees with our crappy 91 octane fuel.

I have now played a little more with the rack, I had popping through exhaust at AFR 11.5 so I have settled at 11.8-12.0 at 3000 rpm and 12.4.-12.6 at idle.

The engine runs well but I think it is a little slow to fall to idle after throttle is released. Any ideas here?

The idle is a little high, 1050-1100 rpm, should I only adjust this with the air correction screws?
I have not "fine-sync'd" the 6 stacks yet but will find my sync tool and recheck ignition as well later today or tomorrow.

I shoot a couple videos with the mobile, you can see the engine is a little slow when throttle is off until idle is settled.

IMG 0316 - YouTube

The AFR gauge easily visible from driver seat and together with road test, you guys and "MFI read ups (pelican)" its a great aid.
IMG 0317 - YouTube

Henry, would that be 36 degrees at 6000 rpm? (I don't rev it over 5000 rpm yet)