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For these vintage engines we run turbo tensioners with chain savers,
The important part is the installation of wide tensioner arms. We make the ones we use. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311459261.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311459341.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311459375.jpg |
Henry, is the tin in place where the oil cooler would go a 993 part as well or custom?
Do you have a part number or source? |
We custom fabricate the tin for each engine.
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Incredible! A beautiful engine in all respects. I'm sure it will run as good as it looks.
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The oil pump looks like it has "flanges" on the front & rear, and the strainer looks like it doesn't protrude below the sump opening.
Will the flat sump plate work? Can you describe the mods to the pump? |
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Oil filter
Henry, I see you have an oil filter on that motor where the Behring oil cooler should be...can that kit be installed on a 930 motor?
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So....
Would you care to give out some details on what we are looking at...That seems to be a worth while mod. What are the particulars?
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I think Jerry Woods took over Smart Racing. andy |
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The oil fitting came from JB Racing and the tin work was fabricated in house. |
thanks
THANKS HENRY...Going to look at that mod.
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Very nice work by Henry as always. Curious if you recall what kind of power numbers you got from this engine?
I too was intrigued by replacing the oil cooler with filter console. I decided to give it a try on my carbureted twin plug 3.2SS engine since it was out for a rebuild this past fall (and winter and spring and summer.... :rolleyes:) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/690909-whats-wrong-picture.html My installation consists of: 1. I cut the oil inlet tube off of a junk engine oil cooler- $30 courtesy of Eagledriver. 2. Used the remnants of the cut up cooler to block off the void in the engine shroud. Also blocked off the air duct path from the main engine fan to top of the cooler to avoid wasting precious air flow that should be going to the cylinder heads & cylinders. 3. 993 filter console slightly modified to fit the oil cooler supply tube. 4. RSR t-stat blank in the engine case. So no more thermostat operation on the engine means the filter sees oil all the time. 5. Canton full flow filter. Expensive but no risk of blowing up filter and filter inspection is a piece of cake. 6. Center mount front oil cooler. My experiences thus far after using it for one weekend. A HOT weekend- temps were in the mid-high 90s, humid and full sun. Nasty weather for racing. >Boy the engine warms up quickly. That engine oil cooler is VERY efficient at keeping oil temps down. Therefore I would not do this on a street car. Each time I go out on track, I fire up the engine in the pits while i'm getting belted in the car and then head to my grid spot quite quickly. In the 5 min. it takes me to get to grid, oil temperature is already registering well above 120 on the factory numeric gauge. Probably 160F by the time I get to my grid spot. Oil temp will continue to climb quite steadily as I sit there idling, so I shut the engine off until I get the one minute to go whistle from the grid marshalls. The front cooler MUST be as effective as possible. Since my only other source of engine cooling is the main engine fan (which incidentally I upsized from the small SC 226mm fan to the larger more common 245mm fan, knowing that i'd be installing the filter console/removing the engine oil cooler.) my front cooler is absolutely critical. I have my front cooler installed behind an IROC front bumper, so its in a good spot to receive air. Its a rather large Fluidyne DB-30618 High Performance Engine Oil Coolers by FLUIDYNEŽ that is OK with respect to actual size (very nice fit in the IROC bumper opening) but it's only got -12 fittings. Plus my ducting behind the cooler is nothing more than a notch to get some separation from the chassis to the back of the cooler. There's a gap of ~3-4 in. behind the cooler. Well I can say it needs more flow than that. By the end of the 40 min. race I was in the 230-240F range which is too hot. So now i've got the front end cut up to install the TRE Motorsports RS style duct I had sitting on the shelf. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344362320.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1344362336.jpg Granted, the weather during my "testing" was extremely hot and my engine was fresh after just being rebuilt. But I still think I should be able to keep it down to 220 max with good oil cooling. If not? I just put the oil cooler back in. Sorry for the tangent on the oil filter. Just thought i'd share my experience with making this adaptation. |
Great thread. Thanks for sharing.
Henry |
Henry
that motor belongs in a museum as a work of art,, |
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