Changing Rod Bolts in sealed case

[Neilk]

Hi,

I don't feel 100% comfortable with how I torqued one of the rod bolts in my engine.
Before I slip on the cylinders, I thought I would replace the two on that rod. I have read that I can change the bolts without splitting the case.

Any tips on doing that or is it as simple as unbolting and bolting back to torque as specified? These are the standard rod bolts.

Thanks,
Neil

[bullethole]

I've never done this, but my mechanic back in TX has done it quite a few times.. it’s a bit of a bugger to get the sockets on, but i'd go for it if i were you

[Flat6pac]

Stock for stock, why bother?
Bruce

[Neilk]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Stock for stock, why bother?
Bruce

I don't feel 100% comfortable with how I torqued one of the rod bolts in my engine. ..

I am not racing, so stock bolts should suffice.

[Walt Fricke]

Neil

Replace your old bolts one at a time. That way the cap and bearings won't be affected. You could just snug up the new ones if you wished, and then when you have both in, torque to the spec you are afraid you messed up on.

I pulled one rod once to check the bearings after an overrev and bent valve(bearings were fine), and was able to get things back together. But no need for the hassle in your case.

[Schmierung]

I too have replaced rod bearings via the spigots. The con-rod bolts were reused. No issues with frequent 7300 RPM shift points.

[911pcars]

Assuming you have access through the opposite cylinder opening, yes. During a rebuild, one can pre-assemble the rods onto the crank or install just the crank, then install the rods through the spigot holes. Works backwards too. Cover all openings with shop towels to prevent those little bits of metal (washers, bolts, bb's, etc.) from being stored inside the engine.

Sherwood