Also, drilling the crank now lets you change your plan down the road without splitting the case again. It's cheap to do now. Lots of shops can do the mod but Henry Schmidt comes to mind off the top of my head (Supertec). The film on the bearings is so thin there are no issues with clearance; the coating is actually absorbed in a way into the bearing surface.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326811554.jpg

One day turn around on cross drilling and bearing grooving.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326814347.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326814417.jpg

Well, I can certainly testify to the Loctite sleeve retainer being an ineffective solution to the spun pinion shaft bearing race. This is off to CMS for an insert.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1326935711.jpg

If the aluminum hole isn't ovaled, you can electroplate the outside of the bearing race to regain the interference fit.

There was a fair amount of play so I didn't measure it. Unfortunately, the middle housing bearings are actually worse. My main shaft bore was 0.009" out of round and you could rock the race in the bore, the pinion shaft was finger loose but no rocking. Looks like I'll have to Wevo the middle case.

had identical cyl worm-tracks in a 2.7 with only 8.5 CR

- started to hear a p-t-t-tt-t noise under acceleration during a race, at rpm's in the 6-7500 range

- turned out the head nuts were just a bit loose on that cyl - dunno why, but shop opined that they might have been dry when torqued & thus inadequate torque resulted,

another shop said they'd also seen this happen before but did not know why

- I fixed it by lapping the cyl on a flat surface, then using cyl with valve compound to lap the head, and installing a new CE ring - along with choosing the thickest copper ring i could find in my collection of many (maybe only .0015 difference, but apparently enuf to compensate)

it has run several thousand miles and races since with no indications of recurring problems


later- i b'ot a 75 911 with a similar noise, which i did not hear on purchase (mea culpa) cuz the car had bad brakes & i never got to test drive it, and that noise also only could be heard under full accel - that one turned out to be a pulled stud - i just re-sold that car & took my licks since it was questionable that repairing it would add value equal to the cost

,





.

My heads were pretty loose when I re-torqued them so some of this damage could have simply been from that. I certainly don't see any other evidence of detonation.

Anybody have the torque for the 915 differential ring bolt handy?

11.5-12 Kpm

Thanks Henry

So that would be like 115Nm then?

Well, looked over the 930 oil pump I bought last year in anticipation of this build. It was sold to me as coming directly out of a running engine by a frequent member here. The pump was a little stiff and one of the housing bolts looked loose so I torqued them to standard and the pump wouldn't turn. Disassembly was interesting to say the least. One of the housing studs appears to have a frozen or cross-threaded nut and the stud itself came out. Next, the gears on the lay shaft wouldn't come off and I noticed that the sump side of that shaft was almost knurled with rough ridges. Inspection of the bores revealed deep grooves in the scavenge side with grooving of the drive shaft "bearing" and what must be deep witness marks on the high pressure side. This pump looks like it is a chimera of old parts, not all matching with the scavenge side having been machined for rod clearance but the pressure side is not. It's hard to see how this could have come out of a running motor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331488916.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331488943.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331488975.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331489004.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331489020.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331489040.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1331489221.jpg

No comments about this pump? Would any of you sell this pump as useable? It looks like an assortment of parts from the junk bin put together to pass off as a useable pump.

Some of the parts can be salvaged but in general, this is not a usable collection of parts.
Would I sell a pump consisting of these parts? not a chance......

Similar to an oil pump that I recently purchased. Arrived with no stud nuts, the intake tube bent closed and obvious damage from hard metal passing though the pump. Supposedly off a running engine and in good shape. A frequent PP seller also. The seller said that he would "do the right thing", he should have done the right thing and not sold it in the first place and wasted my time. I found another pump and scrapped the first.

W

I'm curious about what kind of failure would leave such deep witness marks in the aluminum housing. I can understand the groves in the scavenge side from ingestion of material with a catastrophic engine failure. Does the sudden ingestion of metal on the scavenge side cause the gears to stall forcing the axles apart with such force that the gear teeth gouge into the softer aluminum?

Have made a lot of progress so far having gotten the case together. I ended up sourcing a new turbo pump from PP but the Glyco main bearings wouldn't spec in so OE's were sourced from the local dealer. The Glyco rod bearings, however, were right in spec so were used. So far, the bottom end is together with the 3.2L crank, new chains, rods, and new sprockets on the intermediate shaft. I was able to get the weights for the rods/pistons/pins within 0.1gm. The cylinders and heads are back from TurboKraft after Niresist ringing and machining for 993 knock bridges and have been lapped in and thoroughly cleaned/deglazed ready for installation. The new JE pistons rings are all filed to TurboKraft specs and yield a deck height of 1.0mm yielding a nominal 8.4:1 static compression ratio which is right where we wanted it (within measurement error). Now I am stuck in limbo waiting for my left hand cam (off since January getting a scavenge pump drive placed) before I can proceed with valve piston clearance and final assembly. Man had I forgotten just how much I hated installing JE pin circlips.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1337466470.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1337466484.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1337466537.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1337466559.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1337466586.jpg

Nice motor Steve...count me inSmileWavy

Thanks, I'm way behind you and stuck in limbo with no left hand cam and no word from John Dougherty for months. I'm beginning to think I may have to purchase new cams to get my build complete.

I think John's Mom just passed with cancer...

I'm running his Super Cup cams & springs and the lift is such a big hill to climb my stock starter couldn't climb it every time even after being totally rebuilt:eek:

However, the results once started are well worth the price of a new high torque starter from our host:p