quikie...oil pump housing nuts..6mm

[speedo]

How tight to make them? I just took a dirty free spinning pump and diassembled it to clean. When I reassembled it...with a gentle torque, it spins fine. With a good torque, it starts to pinch (no clicking or metal on metal). As I don't want any 6mm nuts floating around in the engine, what should they be torqued to? I read in a thread that 10 ft-lbs is sufficient. I also read to use locktight...thoughts?

Speedo

[speedo]

I can't be the only one that disassembles and cleans the oil pumps. I am going to guess the torque is somewhere 12-15 ft lbs...but I cannot find a spec anywhere.
First correct answer gets a stretched timing chain

Speedo

[KTL]

Just reassembled a 3.0L SC pump the other night. I cleaned the threads with brake cleaner and used new nuts, new spring washers, applied blue loctite. Using my handy dandy 3/8 drive snap-on dial gauge 0-300 inch-pound "torquometer" torque wrench, I torqued them to only 100 inch pounds (8-1/3 ft-lb). Initially, one of the old nuts seemed like it was stripping, so I used some new ones. Even with the new nuts, one of the studs could take no more than 100 in-lbs. The nut was turning, the stud was not turning and the dial would continue to wiggle at 100 in-lbs so I stopped there.

You don't want to overtighten the nuts and distort the pump housing. I'm comfortable with 100 in-lbs since its near the torque spec for M6 coarse thread fastening of a class 8 nut. Actually too tight, considering my threads were lubricated with loctite

http://www.metricmcc.com/catalog/Ch10/10-1027.pdf

Nonetheless, I checked the pump and it spins freely with no clicking or feeling of contact/rubbing within the pump housing.

Me no needy a stretched timing chain. Already got a couple of old worn chains in the scrap metal pile thankyouverymuch

[Dan J]

The correct torque is 10 nm

[KTL]

Thanks Dan. That's dry threads, correct?