head stud removal tool

bullethole · 05-15-2012, 11:27 AM

Is there a specific tool for removing the head studs. All my studs are intact, but they are a mixture of steel and dilvar (and none of the bottom ones are steel). I have a "collet" tool for the exhaust/intake studs, but its not the right size for the head studs. Anyone know where to get the right tool (yes, i understand the need to apply heat to the case to soften up the locktite (if it was used))

euro911sc · euro911sc's Garage

You can get them at a variety of places, but they all commonly ruin the threads. You want the type that is actually threaded and clamps down. I got mine from Baum, but they no longer make them. Snap-on has the right kind I hear.

alternative: two nuts tightened on the end of the stud is just as good.

FYI: DO NOT CLEAN THE HOLES WITH A TAP! If you have an old stud or a piece of threaded rod use a dremel and cut 3-4 triangular slices along the length of the threads of your old stud. Space them evenly around the diameter and make them about 3/4" long. Then use that to clean the threads. Search for pics if you like

enjoy!

-Michael

bullethole · 05-15-2012, 12:43 PM

yes.. thats the tool i'm looking for. I don;'t care about the threads, the studs will be replaced, and they are not worth even trying to sell. Great idea on the cleaning of the threads. I guess i just need to figure out the size of the thread surface and go see what my local autoparts store can get for me (they are pretty good at getting me things like this, i know the owner).

KTL · 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by euro911sc

FYI: DO NOT CLEAN THE HOLES WITH A TAP! If you have an old stud or a piece of threaded rod use a dremel and cut 3-4 triangular slices along the length of the threads of your old stud. Space them evenly around the diameter and make them about 3/4" long. Then use that to clean the threads. Search for pics if you like

Agree with Michael 100%. Resist the urge to "chase" the threads with a common tap. All you'll do is make your studs fit looser........

Do exactly what he said and take a M10 x 1.5 bolt or old stud and cut slots in the stud to make your own thread chaser. Works AWESOME

I have the cheapy stud removers from OTC and they work good for their intended purpose- grab the stud like a bulldog on 'roids w/no regard for saving the threads. These do you no good if you happen to want to remove some studs that you want to reuse.

Snap-On makes the nice one that saves you time loosening & tightening nuts all day. But man is it expensive. Get the simple man's stud remover from Goodson. $29 is a decent price and it does the job like two nuts. Just made of more durable tool steel vs. the weaker material of basic class 8 nuts.

GOODSON : Miscellaneous Cylinder Head Work : Metric Stud Removers

MBruns · 05-15-2012, 01:10 PM

Steven, If you have a good 1/2" impact gun try this, with two 10 mm nuts one 15mm wrench size and one 17mm wrench lock them together on the stud with the 17 mm in the back, slide your socket over the smaller one and rattle it out. sometimes it takes a little heat sometimes not. I try them all and save the tough ones for last

Mike Bruns

lupin..the..3rd · 05-16-2012, 11:13 AM

Snap On is the only way to go. It works beautifully. The time and aggravation saved over the cheapo tools is well worth the few bucks more.

MBruns · 05-16-2012, 12:04 PM

I have the Snap on collet set and they are very nice, the above works well and its quick and effective, the shock from the impact gun works wonders
Mike Bruns JBRacing.com

Eagledriver · 05-16-2012, 02:24 PM

Since you don't want to keep the studs, you can do what I did. Buy some cheap nuts that will fit on the studs and weld them on with a 99 dollar wire welder (or a better one if you have it). I used SAE nuts that were an interference fit. The welding also heats up the studs and makes them easy to remove.

-Andy

boyt911sc · boyt911sc's Garage

A Snap-On Dowel Stud Remover with 10 mm x 1.5 collet and a powerful impact wrench will do the work. The last 48 dilavar studs I removed, only two (2) needed extra heat for removal. The picture attached showing the Snap-On tool is from Tom Butler's collection.

Tony

bullethole · 05-17-2012, 06:42 AM

thanks for all the tips.. i decided to try the 2 nuts approach (without an impact gun), some of the studs were really easy (like no loctite was used), and 3 were a royal bugger to get out, even with heat, I thought I was going to snap the stud off with the amount of effort i had to use, but got them all out. Now my case is completely clean of studs so i can go about cleaning and scrubbing the outside this weekend so its all nice and clean. my new rods will be here monday, and my new crank bearings will be here tomorrow so i can start re-assembly with what I have. Then its a matter of waiting for the bank account to refill to move forward with new P&Cs and cams.